Purge Valve - Permanent Fix

[DragonSpyder]

If we plug the hose and problem is solved. What is the permanent fix for this issue? My dealer is not going to know what to do so going to them is of no use.

 

[Lamonster]

Here's your options as I see it.

Now that you know this fixed the problem you can-

A- Let the dealer look at it and determine if it's a stuck valve or a software problem. If it's a stuck valve they can replace it. If the valve is fine then you'll need the new software update that should be out in a week or so.

B- Do like many of us have done and that is remove the evap can and route the vent from the tank to another location and leave the purge valve plugged.

At one time the only State that had a evap can or pair valves was CA. This is a epa thing and will not effect how the Spyder runs. I would recomed option A first.

 

[nudle]

Thanks Lamont:cheers:

 

[barb36jack31]

I did the isolate the cannister trick yesterday. Left the purge valve connected but plugged the hose leaving the purge valve. Bike runs like a scalded cat, no hesitation or surging and seems to be running somewhat cooler. In any event I am a very Happy Spyder Owner. I am going to leave it like it is. The less I have my bike at the tender mercies of the dealer, the better I like it.

I have about 3 mos.left on my warranty, so I wil be on my own before long.

PE# 600

Thanks to Lamonster and all the others for scoping out the problem and coming up with the fix!

 

[Tripod]

Here's your options as I see it.

Now that you know this fixed the problem you can-

A- Let the dealer look at it and determine if it's a stuck valve or a software problem. If it's a stuck valve they can replace it. If the valve is fine then you'll need the new software update that should be out in a week or so.

B- Do like many of us have done and that is remove the evap can and route the vent from the tank to another location and leave the purge valve plugged.

At one time the only State that had a evap can or pair valves was CA. This is a epa thing and will not effect how the Spyder runs. I would recomed option A first.

Hey Lamont,

Greetings from the left coast.

If you're up for it. How about a How To - Step by Step of item B for us less adept.

Tripod :joke:

 

[burg650]

Today was the first I had a chance to ride my Spyder since I did the software update, been reading about the missing and hesitation and yes it has happen to me. After about a 50 mile ride all highway I hit traffic and it was stop and go for the next 10 miles and never got out of 2nd and it was missing so much I thought it was going to stall (never had this problem till software). I have been reading the by pass valve fix but is it not just a mask for the problem, Lamonster you say a software fix is on the way and if so I guess I will wait for it.

 

[Putt-Putt]

Thanks Lamont:cheers:

Ditto :2thumbs:

 

[BajaRon]

Today was the first I had a chance to ride my Spyder since I did the software update, been reading about the missing and hesitation and yes it has happen to me. After about a 50 mile ride all highway I hit traffic and it was stop and go for the next 10 miles and never got out of 2nd and it was missing so much I thought it was going to stall (never had this problem till software). I have been reading the by pass valve fix but is it not just a mask for the problem, Lamonster you say a software fix is on the way and if so I guess I will wait for it.

No, eliminating the Purge Valve eliminates the problem. It is not a patch or bandaid. It is a permanante fix and you don't have to wait and hope for a new update that may or may not do the trick.

 

[Tripod]

No, eliminating the Purge Valve eliminates the problem. It is not a patch or bandaid. It is a permanante fix and you don't have to wait and hope for a new update that may or may not do the trick.

I need some help here. I've read that you shouldn't disconnect the purge valve (electrics), that will make it throw off error message. You say it should be "eliminated". Some eliminate the canister and some run hoses down and back. Is there anyone who can give an easy instructional? I have an SE5 if that matter. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tripod :joke:

 

[Dragonrider]

The canisterectomy plugs the line, but the valve is still there and "working".

 

[Tripod]

The canisterectomy plugs the line, but the valve is still there and "working".

See, here lies the problem. If there is a line of some sort going into the purge valve, that's one thing. Then there is a line that some suggest you put a bolt into to block it. Some talk of running lines to the rear and bottom. When you say the "canisterectomy plugs the line"...that doesn't explain the procedure to me. I appreciate your input...perhaps you think I know more that I really do. What I need is an explanation similar to the ones found in the Step by Step section of the forum. I'm usually savvy about this stuff, I guess I'm having trouble with the vernacular.

Thanks again,

Tripod :joke:

 

[Lamonster]

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huC0pXtPcug"]YouTube- Broadcast Yourself.[/nomedia]

 

[spyderwoman]

now what!

crap! pinched off the valve with clamp. she ran like a dream in the morning, on the way home she started the same junk again. we put a manual switch on the fan so she never got over 4 bars either. it started backfiring, surging, etc....so now what? i'm probably the first the "fix" didn't work for. i even asked my hubby if he clamped off the right valve-:shocked: he wasn't too happy about that- he had- anyway does it take time to work or should it be right away?

 

[Cliff-Co.]

mine also runs like crap, since re-call, purge valve, plugged, or un-plugged no difference, my dealer already done 16, before mine ??? & no problems, just mine, ??? guess it's called the luck of the draw !!! :chat:

 

[bjt]

See, here lies the problem. If there is a line of some sort going into the purge valve, that's one thing. Then there is a line that some suggest you put a bolt into to block it. Some talk of running lines to the rear and bottom. When you say the "canisterectomy plugs the line"...that doesn't explain the procedure to me. I appreciate your input...perhaps you think I know more that I really do. What I need is an explanation similar to the ones found in the Step by Step section of the forum. I'm usually savvy about this stuff, I guess I'm having trouble with the vernacular.

Thanks again,

Tripod :joke:

There are two separate hoses they are talking about. One comes from the fuel tank that goes to the canister. That hose is the one that people are extending to the rear of the Spyder so that any raw gas or fumes that are coming out of the gas tank now are vented to atmosphere at the rear of the Spyder where you won't smell it. The second hose goes from the canister to the purge valve and continues on to the Rotax. That hose is the one that is supposed to get plugged, leaving the purge valve connected. A third hose on the canister is a short hose that vents the canister to atmosphere and that is eliminated when you remove your canister. The first two lines you talk about in your post (in bold text) are the same line.

 

[Lamonster]

crap! pinched off the valve with clamp. she ran like a dream in the morning, on the way home she started the same junk again. we put a manual switch on the fan so she never got over 4 bars either. it started backfiring, surging, etc....so now what? i'm probably the first the "fix" didn't work for. i even asked my hubby if he clamped off the right valve-:shocked: he wasn't too happy about that- he had- anyway does it take time to work or should it be right away?

My guess is the clamp is leaking, I would use a bolt.

 

[Some Guy]

I did this mod to my Spyder yesterday and rode a couple hundred miles...BIG IMPROVEMENT! hyea:

 

[Tripod]

There are two separate hoses they are talking about. One comes from the fuel tank that goes to the canister. That hose is the one that people are extending to the rear of the Spyder so that any raw gas or fumes that are coming out of the gas tank now are vented to atmosphere at the rear of the Spyder where you won't smell it. The second hose goes from the canister to the purge valve and continues on to the Rotax. That hose is the one that is supposed to get plugged, leaving the purge valve connected. A third hose on the canister is a short hose that vents the canister to atmosphere and that is eliminated when you remove your canister. The first two lines you talk about in your post (in bold text) are the same line.

BJT,

Thank you...it makes sense to me now. One last question. Could one do the alterations and leave the canister in place so it could be returned to the stock configuration before returning to the stealership for recalls, updates, etc. ??

Tripod :joke:

 

[nudle]

:2thumbs: Yes

 

[bjt]

BJT,

Thank you...it makes sense to me now. One last question. Could one do the alterations and leave the canister in place so it could be returned to the stock configuration before returning to the stealership for recalls, updates, etc. ??

Tripod :joke:

:2thumbs: Yes

What he said....

Yes the canister can stay in place.