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Possible bad gas?

Bgdrmwvr

New member
So i had a bad tire and hadnt ridden in a while...kept starting and moving my 2012 rt around the yard to keep it alive.

Relocated for a job to another state..fixed tire...DROVE rt up ramp onto trailer...no issues whatsoever.

Get to Florida...got to take a ride...on E...so i go to turn back to the house and rt dies...ran out of gas..

Got new gas..put it in and it has not run right since.

At first it wouldnt even stay running.

Then after a week i got it so it would sit and idle/rev..no issue.

Tried to go for a ride and it feels bogges down like a car with old gas or water in it.

Shop said to put new gas and stabil in and try that.

It runs crappy then clears up for a sec then runs crappy again.

I can drive it all over the neighborhood in 2nd or 3rd but bogs down any faster...even before 4th its runn8ng sluggish.

Then on my way back to the house it started popping...not backfiring but popping..

I was really wanting to trade it in for a 2020 or 2021 but would like it running to get a decent trade in.

Any ideas?

If this was one of my trucks id just keep runn8ng the good fresh gas through to push out the crap gas...if thats the issue.

Id appreciate any suggestions...
 
If your sure you got the gas corrected, that is the first thing, good gas. Running out of gas is hard on the fuel pump and can damage it. number 2 would be the fuel filter change that. and 3 is look at the small vacuum lines at the bottom of your carbonators. here is a link to a post about vacuum lines https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?50428-Rough-Idle-Check-Engine-then-Limp-Mode-after-Storage&highlight=vacume+linehttp%3A%2F%2F you should also check to see if you have any codes before you turn your spyder off.
 
There is often some schmutz at the bottom of most fuel tanks. Be it at the tank farm, fuel station, your car, and the spyder. When you run out of fuel, it gets drawn into the fuel pump and then clogs the filter so only a little fuel can get to the motor ( LOW SPEEDS ) . Fuel filter R and R isn't to difficult.

Lew L
 
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There is often some schmutz at the bottom of most fuel tanks. Be it at the tank farm, fuel station, your car, and the spyder. When you run out of fuel, it gets drawn into the fuel pump and then clogs the filter so only a little fuel can get to the motor ( LOW SPEEDS ) . Fuel filter R and R isn't to difficult.

Lew L

:agree: That ramp was likely a lot Steeper than any road you have ever been on ..... and any gloop in the tank may have migrated to the gas pick-up area and now it's in the throttle body ...... Mike :thumbup:
 
If your sure you got the gas corrected, that is the first thing, good gas. Running out of gas is hard on the fuel pump and can damage it. number 2 would be the fuel filter change that. and 3 is look at the small vacuum lines at the bottom of your carbonators. here is a link to a post about vacuum lines https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?50428-Rough-Idle-Check-Engine-then-Limp-Mode-after-Storage&highlight=vacume+linehttp%3A%2F%2F you should also check to see if you have any codes before you turn your spyder off.

:agree::agree: if the vacuum lines are OEM they are at least 8 yrs. old.... and the original Rubber have likely failed ...... get silicone at the Auto parts store and re-place ...... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:
 
This may not be germain to the OP's problem, but never buy gas at a station that's taking on a delivery. It riles up the crud at the bottom of the tank.
Another good policy is never go below a quarter tank on any vehicle. The fuel pump is now inside the tank at the bottom and is cooled by the gasoline. Run too low and the pump can burn out.
And never, never start an engine unless you are going to ride/drive for at least a half hour. Let sleeping engines lie, to paraphrase an old saying.
 
"And never, never start an engine unless you are going to ride/drive for at least a half hour."

Seriously? Let's not get too carried away.
 
"And never, never start an engine unless you are going to ride/drive for at least a half hour." Seriously? Let's not get too carried away.
Not carried away at all. Oil is hydrogenous (absorbs moisture) and not fully warming the oil to operating temperature, so it can expel the moisture is harmful to an engine's interior parts. The temp gauge shows only coolant temp - the oil takes much, much longer to warm. Also, not fully warming the engine leaves condensation in the exhaust system, thus shortening its life.
 
Not carried away at all. Oil is hydrogenous (absorbs moisture) and not fully warming the oil to operating temperature, so it can expel the moisture is harmful to an engine's interior parts. The temp gauge shows only coolant temp - the oil takes much, much longer to warm. Also, not fully warming the engine leaves condensation in the exhaust system, thus shortening its life.

Yes yes, that's all common knowledge, and a good reason to not run your engine for short periods of time. But really,
""And never, never start an engine unless you are going to ride/drive for at least a half hour.", is just a bit over the top.
I don't do it a lot, but I will start an engine to move a truck, car, let someone out of a parking space, etc. And I'm sure
not going to run the engine any longer than what I need to move it. So far, nothing has self-destructed. :)
 
I don't do it a lot, but I will start an engine to move a truck, car, let someone out of a parking space, etc. And I'm sure not going to run the engine any longer than what I need to move it. So far, nothing has self-destructed. :)
I was referring to vehicles in hibernation. But to each his own.
 
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