Only 8 months after replacement, ACS failed again

[teninospyder]

OK, as I have seen this issue brought up many times in posts here, I now become ANOTHER unhappy BRP customer related to the ACS system on our 2014 RTL SE6. After much discussion and runaround with the dealer, BRP, and RPMOne, in Oct. of 2017, this compressor was replaced and all seemed well (even though VERY expensive to me), until this week in the middle of our 1300 mile trip, wherein we noticed the system had stopped functioning. Any attempt to change settings via the dash buttons was a failure. Finally the "manual" red warning screen showed. At various times after that I tried getting it to adjust, but to no avail. Now at home, I manually put 50 PSI into the system. Tried this a number of times and each time when I started the Spyder after that, the system would "lower" itself, but not "raise" itself. Again, no compressor sound anytime. As far as I can tell, the fuse is good, but don't know about the relay (not sure how to test it easily either).

After "studying" the service manual and the parts you can see from under the left side, I have this question as a way of getting the system into a "manual fill mode". Why can't you just disconnect the link that goes from the frame to the position sensor bracket and then manually adjust the ride by putting air in the system like you would if it wasn't ACS?

I expect it isn't this simple, and I will welcome any help on understanding why.

 

[safecracker]

It sounds like.the compressor. Because the ACS sensor is still working, it is telling the system to release air via the release solenoid. For a temporary fix you need to unplug the power cable from the air release solenoid. This solenoid is.located on the frame above your muffler. This way you can add air manually and not have the system release your air pressure. Good luck. Bruce

 

[youngers]

tenonspyder

glad you found out what A C S was , now the fix !

 

[teninospyder]

knew about ACS

glad you found out what A C S was , now the fix !

Trust me......I knew what BRP ACS was (and isn't) long before this episode nojoke

 

[teninospyder]

sounds like a solution I was looking for.

It sounds like.the compressor. Because the ACS sensor is still working, it is telling the system to release air via the release solenoid. For a temporary fix you need to unplug the power cable from the air release solenoid. This solenoid is.located on the frame above your muffler. This way you can add air manually and not have the system release your air pressure. Good luck. Bruce

Thanks for this info. I will see if I can find and do that. Wasn't sure if a separate connection controlled that or not. Even the shop manual isn't really clear on it......IMHO.

 

[teninospyder]

how to see the release solenoid

It sounds like.the compressor. Because the ACS sensor is still working, it is telling the system to release air via the release solenoid. For a temporary fix you need to unplug the power cable from the air release solenoid. This solenoid is.located on the frame above your muffler. This way you can add air manually and not have the system release your air pressure. Good luck. Bruce

Bruce,
Can you tell me what needs to come off for me to see and disconnect this solenoid ? Having trouble finding it.:banghead:

OK.....I may have found the solenoid and it's connector. Not wanting to "break it", any help on how to get it apart? Is it just pressed together or does it have locking tabs, or...…..? It seems pretty fragile.

 

[safecracker]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ible-air-leak-in-airbag&p=1363487#post1363487 . Try this link it will take you to the thread i started on May 13th. It shows the site connection. I did not see how to disconnect plug. Bruce

 

[DGoebel]

Safecracker, I've already got your thread bookmarked in my Maintenance Favorites, Riding and Wrenching buddy is coming over tomorrow after church and we're taking the trunk off. Hoping that I only have to do what you've shown.ray:
Did you happen to keep a parts breakdown of items purchased?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Have you searched for and read the threads about some after market compressor that works good and is a lot less expensive? Worth considering even if you still have some MA time left with RPM.

 

[DGoebel]

TeninoSpyder, I found (in my case) that the failure was a small check valve coming off the compressor that was failing to prevent air backflowing into the pump. My pump still works and would just have to run every time I fired the bike up and got moving.

I found that there is a simple bypass of the T connector that is between the Schrader valve under the seat, the pump, and the bag if you really wanted to bypass/delete the pump and dash adjustability. Really just a longer bit of hose, the fittings are a press in while pulling hose out type.
If you ran a line direct from the Schrader valve to the top of the bag you would have the system the non-adjustable base RT models have.
See the RT-STD side box, The solenoid is part 360A in the RT-S, RT-LTD portion of the diagram, it's hidden under the frame mount for that T Valve

But just removing the check valve (210 in the diagram above), testing it for what should only be one way flow, discovering two way flow, cleaning the check valve and re-installing it has rewarded me with no expense corrected ACS system.
My symptoms were that the pump would work when riding, but let the bike sit too long and the air was gone from the system. I could reach in and hand compress the airbag. I could manually add air and it would take an hour or two to slow leak out. I think my used Spyder may have always had this slow leak, it was just slower when I first bought the bike in '16.

If your bike seems to hold air for a while and just slowly leak down, it could just be that blasted check valve.
Fuse check is check your horn, the horn and ACS compressor are on the same fuse. If the horn works and the compressor doesn't... sorry though it could be one of the other sensors/solenoids

 

[DGoebel]

TeninoSpyder, here's a pick of the solenoid and the connector

 

[teninospyder]

Thanks to all who have posted

I appreciate the responses that I finally saw. It seems that I don't know how to "stay in touch" with the posts I send, to see if there are any responses. Any help on that end would also be appreciated. Is there a way to have the system notify you? My only way so far seems to be to search by my posting name and hope it shows what I did, and then look there. Someone said something earlier about "registering" to a thread ??
Again, trying to learn more about how to learn more about the help people are trying to provide me :banghead:

 

[DGoebel]

Ray, after you start your post, when you view it, you can click on Thread tools at the top right menu, in the drop down select subscribe and you're presented with three choices. When I'm looking for an answer I select immediately by email. If it's not time sensitive, you can see an choose one of the other options.
Click on the thumbnail below

 

[UtahPete]

I appreciate the responses that I finally saw. It seems that I don't know how to "stay in touch" with the posts I send, to see if there are any responses. Any help on that end would also be appreciated. Is there a way to have the system notify you? My only way so far seems to be to search by my posting name and hope it shows what I did, and then look there. Someone said something earlier about "registering" to a thread ??
Again, trying to learn more about how to learn more about the help people are trying to provide me :banghead:

Click on 'Forum' then 'Quick Links' then 'Subscribed Threads'. That should show all the threads you've posted in. You can customize notifications under 'Settings' to receive alerts.

 

[Grandpot]

Video

Here's a link to a YouTube video I made for replacing the compressor with an aftermarket unit.

It is 45 minutes long and includes the Tupperware removal.

 

[teninospyder]

How long did the entire operation depicted in your video take?

Here's a link to a YouTube video I made for replacing the compressor with an aftermarket unit.

It is 45 minutes long and includes the Tupperware removal.

Your video is GREAT ! This looks more like an all day job (for me anyway), and

hopefully not by myself​

. How long would it take us "older" people, given a concern for "where was I" and "did I do that part right?"..:roflblack:

 

[Grandpot]

Your video is GREAT ! This looks more like an all day job (for me anyway), and

hopefully not by myself​

. How long would it take us "older" people, given a concern for "where was I" and "did I do that part right?"..:roflblack:

If you have never removed the Tupperware before, it will take some time. Figure a day for Tupperware removal and install and a day messing with the compressor. Don't forget the beer. It really isn't too hard, just detailed.

 

[DGoebel]

After watching Grandpot's video and reading some of the other threads, having some experience removing the side panels (for oil changes on my '13) and having never took the rear trunk/saddlebag assembly off. I did the remove everything to gain access to the check valve in about 4 hours with a friends help. About an hour checking the and cleaning the checkvalve, testing it off the bike with my compressor, then put it back on and pressurized the airbag to 80lbs with my compressor. I let it sit overnight and confirmed that it hadn't lost any pressure, then about 2 hours carefully re assembling. Though I'm terrible about where'd I put that socket/torx bit/wrench.....
I gotta say my wife was most pleased by the fact that the fix didn't cost anything. Couple days now and it's not leaking down at all.

 

[k7xi]

Air compressor

Whe I took mine all apart, I decided that if the compressor goes bad again...you know it'll be on a trip....I needed a way to basically unplug the air release solenoid without taking the bike apart. So I cut one of the wires going to the solenoid and put in a quick disconnect on 6 inches of wire and routed it to under the seat. So if it quits now, I raise the seat, pull the quick disconnect and can add air manually without it losing any.

 

[DGoebel]

Excellent idea, I take it you've tested it and no error messages or other computer foolery. Though this wouldn't help with a bad check valve issue. It'd be the fix for a bad compressor for sure.