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Oil Question (Again) Sorry!

speedbuggy

New member
I have gone through all the forums on oil changes and types and grades of oil used by everyone.
It's all very confusing.
I know the recommended oil is 5w-40 and change every 5000km. (Canada) 3000 miles USA.

I have been using Castrol Power RS Racing 4T - SAE 10W-50 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
which is JASO MA-2, API, SL.

I own a 2008 GS Roadster SM5

It seems to me the average ryder is using 10w-40.

This is the oil I use on his changes and I find it works great.

QUESTION: A lot of you have owned Spyders longer than me, so I am looking for feedback on this
grade of oil. Any feedback would be appreciated.:clap::yes:
 
I have gone through all the forums on oil changes and types and grades of oil used by everyone.
It's all very confusing.
I know the recommended oil is 5w-40 and change every 5000km. (Canada) 3000 miles USA.

I have been using Castrol Power RS Racing 4T - SAE 10W-50 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
which is JASO MA-2, API, SL.

I own a 2008 GS Roadster SM5

It seems to me the average ryder is using 10w-40.

This is the oil I use on his changes and I find it works great.

QUESTION: A lot of you have owned Spyders longer than me, so I am looking for feedback on this
grade of oil. Any feedback would be appreciated.:clap::yes:

The oil change interval changed several years ago and in now 7,500 kms or 4,600 miles. Also very important minimum once a year.

The first number is cold viscosity and is important for easy starting in cold conditions. Unless you drive in winter then using a 10 instead of the recommended 5 is likely not a problem and I have done that.

The second viscosity number is the operating viscosity and is very important to stick to the recommended 40 and not use 50. Why did you choose 50 when there are lots of choices for 40?
 
This is the only oil that was available. I buy it at Wall Mart for $15.75 . Thay do not carry 5w-40 or 10w-40 here in Canada. When I called the dealer, they said it would be OK for our climate.

I should also mention that they had another brand but was not full synthetic at 10w-40.


The oil change interval changed several years ago and in now 7,500 kms or 4,600 miles. Also very important minimum once a year.

The first number is cold viscosity and is important for easy starting in cold conditions. Unless you drive in winter then using a 10 instead of the recommended 5 is likely not a problem and I have done that.

The second viscosity number is the operating viscosity and is very important to stick to the recommended 40 and not use 50. Why did you choose 50 when there are lots of choices for 40?
 
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This is the only oil that was available. I buy it at Wall Mart for $15.75 . Thay do not carry 5w-40 or 10w-40 here in Canada. When I called the dealer, they said it would be OK for our climate.

I should also mention that they had another brand but was not full synthetic at 10w-40.

Until recently Crappy Tire had Amsoil 10 - 40 and Castrol 10 - 40. But the last time I was in there was no more Amsoil and not sure about the Castrol.
 
Rotella T6

Rotella T6 is rated for wet clutch applications and is suitable to use. I've got it in my 2012 RS SM5 and have no problems at all.
 
Here's a thought...

if all else fails (we never do :roflblack:) go with what the machine came with. Brp has the blend and the full synthetic works as well as others and if you order the kits online competitively priced....:thumbup:
 
There is another older thread on oils on here and it was determined that the codes on the back of the Rotella T6 specified it was suitable for wet clutch applications.

[h=2]>>>>Motorcycle usage[/h]Though marketed as an engine oil for diesel trucks, Rotella oil has found popularity with motorcyclists as well. The lack of "friction modifiers" in Rotella means they do not interfere with wet clutch operations. This is called a "shared sump" design, which is unlike automobiles which maintain separate oil reservoirs - one for the engine and one for the transmission. Used oil analysis (UOA) reports on BobIsTheOilGuy.com have shown wear metals levels comparable to oils marketed as motorcycle-specific.
[h=3]JASO-MA[/h]Both Rotella T 15W-40 conventional and, Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic both list the JASO MA standard; this information can be found on the bottle adjacent to the SAE/API rating stamp. JASO is an acronym that stands for "The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization." Note that the 10W-30 conventional oil does not list JASO-MA.<<<

http://us.wow.com/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T?s_chn=96&s_pt=aolsem&v_t=aolsem
 
There is another older thread on oils on here and it was determined that the codes on the back of the Rotella T6 specified it was suitable for wet clutch applications.

>>>>Motorcycle usage

Though marketed as an engine oil for diesel trucks, Rotella oil has found popularity with motorcyclists as well. The lack of "friction modifiers" in Rotella means they do not interfere with wet clutch operations. This is called a "shared sump" design, which is unlike automobiles which maintain separate oil reservoirs - one for the engine and one for the transmission. Used oil analysis (UOA) reports on BobIsTheOilGuy.com have shown wear metals levels comparable to oils marketed as motorcycle-specific.
JASO-MA

Both Rotella T 15W-40 conventional and, Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic both list the JASO MA standard; this information can be found on the bottle adjacent to the SAE/API rating stamp. JASO is an acronym that stands for "The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization." Note that the 10W-30 conventional oil does not list JASO-MA.<<<

http://us.wow.com/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T?s_chn=96&s_pt=aolsem&v_t=aolsem

It appears you need to read the owner's manual again. That said you can use whatever oil you want. For others making a decision need the facts. BRP says do not use an oil rated SM. There are lots of other choices.

attachment.php


As you point out Rotella T6 has a JASO wet clutch slippage rating of MA. Is that good enough? When I use other brands of oil for my Spyder I look for a JASO rating of MA2 as almost all motorcycle oils are. MA is not good enough for me. Those are the choices I make.
 

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It sounds like choice of oil is about like choice of tires. There are several choices out there. I decided on Rotella T6 because of what I read about it and although it is SM rated, it doesn't have the 'friction modifiers' in it that other oils have which is the cause of clutch slippage. Its working just fine for me. If my Spyder was still under warranty, I might choose something else or stick with the BRP oil even with the high price.
 
This is the only oil that was available. I buy it at Wall Mart for $15.75 . Thay do not carry 5w-40 or 10w-40 here in Canada. When I called the dealer, they said it would be OK for our climate.

I should also mention that they had another brand but was not full synthetic at 10w-40.

I can send Amsoil to Canadian customers for much less than this. It ships from an Amsoil warehouse in Canada so it arrives quickly and there are no import duties. Because it is less expensive in the US, some of my customers purchase it and have it delivered to this side of the border.

I was curious about the Rotella brand too. I used it in my 08 m109r and it work perfectly.

The JASO rating has 3 different grades of resistance to wet clutch slippage.

MA1 is the least desirable (most likely to give clutch slippage). MA is next and MA2 is the best. Then there is a range within each of these divisions. You can have an MA rated oil at the bottom of the MA scale. Just barely above the top of the lower MA1 rating. Or it may be at the top of the MA scale, just short of a low MA2 rating. This information is harder to come by.

Most wet clutches are good with a JASO rating of MA. I don't recommend running a JASO MA1 rated oil in any wet clutch application.

But the 998 V-Twin is more sensitive than most. Especially the SE5. It could be clutch material compound or lack of clutch pack pressure at lock-up. But whatever it is, it is important to be careful. Many oils that work fine in other wet clutch applications will cause slippage in the 998.

Slippage can be insidious. it isn't always in your face right away. A lightly loaded Spyder ridden conservatively may never have a problem. As you add weight, a trailer or ride aggressively the clutch will have more opportunity to slip. If you do not catch it soon enough you'll be buying a clutch rebuild. Not an inexpensive fix.
 
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oil?

What about mercury quicksilver 5w-40 ATV oil. It has all the requirements that can am lists. It was in wal mart for about $6.00 a quart. Might work alright, has good reviews. Good for wet clutches it says?
 
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