oil plug

[de390sac]

I have a 2011 rts oil drain on motor is stripped. last time oil plug was out by dealer at 600 mile service How do we fix or is this a warranty fix.

 

[BajaRon]

Not to highjack the tread, but my drain plugs are Torx.

This should be warranty but you'll never get it to stick because there is no way to prove the shop did the deed. There are good solutions, though it is a shame that the dealership did this to you.

 

[Crisis]

This just happen to me. You can get the plug out with a medium size pair of vise grips. If it is the engine plug you will need to remove the plastic tray under the engine and jack the trike up so you have good access to the plug and can see well. Be sure to get the vise grips level on the plug and clamp it down as tight as possible. You may want to get a replacement plug from the dealer or you can order one from http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/canamspyder.php
Some people do not like the after market plugs because the head of the plug protrudes out more than the OEM. I did not have the luxury of waiting for my dealer (out of stock) and it was the second plug I attempted to remove during the oil change, oil tank plug came out without issue. I put the striped plug back with vise grips and have since received the after market plugs and I will do a quick swap and replace any oil I loose during the change. Hope this helps.

 

[Crisis]

By the way I too have Torx not hex. That's how I striped mine. First oil change I just got lucky using a hex socket.

 

[BajaRon]

If your plug is a Torx you can get it out with a Hex if you're careful. But it will 'strip' easily. You may still be able to get a Torx to work though.

 

[boborgera]

wow, I guess I could be wrong about that.

Your not, But that's an argument for another day.:dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

wow, I guess I could be wrong about that.

You are not wrong. Most have the hex plugs, but a few (early?) ones had torx. The secret to successful is to torque them properly, and never use a hex (or torx) key on them, only a ratchet and a socket that is well seated in the plug.

 

[SteveMac]

You are not wrong. Most have the hex plugs, but a few (early?) ones had torx. The secret to successful is to torque them properly, and never use a hex (or torx) key on them, only a ratchet and a socket that is well seated in the plug.

:agree:
"well seated" is key. The recess for the hex is quite deep. Deeper than many think. Be sure the hex socket is all the way in. Clean out the recess with brake clean and a jet nozzle if there is road grime up in there.

 

[BajaRon]

Thanx Scotty & bobogera.

As posted in another thread, two words that are now part of my Spyder vocabulary:torque wrench

and actually now both my oil plugs are 7/16 bolt sized hex heads.

(Before reading this series of posts I almost waddled down to the barn to retrieve my old oil plugs for a look-see.)

People assume they have hex head drain plugs (as I did). Torx really is a much better way to go. Not sure why BRP switched to hex.