Hi Spyder lovers, getting ready to change oil for the first time in the 2012 Can Am Spyder that I just purchase. I was told in 2012 that can am made a change to the panels when changing oil and that only 2 panels had to be removed. Every you tube video and all other post I read, states that all panels have to be removed. My main problem is removing the mirror, I break the bottom lose, but when I hit my palm on the bottom I can not break the top loose. Has anyone ever changed the oil without removing all the panels? I even ask my local dealer and they stated all side panels had to be removed. Just wanted to know before I get started. A little confused. Thanks for the help.
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Oil change 2012 Spyder RT
- Thread starter Knipper
- Start date
JayBros
Well-known member
The best video on how to remove RT mirrors is at this link, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw&feature=youtu.be at about 11'30". It is a video of a newer RT but the mirror removal procedure is the same.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Gosh, I wish you lived closer. This is going to take longer to try to explain in writing than too just have you come over and show you.
First, about the mirror, there is a snap on connection on the front there where the mirror housing comes to a point, and there is a snap on connection on the lower rear. The top connection is simply a slip on. So, if you have both the front and lower rear connections unsnapped - or maybe more correctly unslapped - then just lift the whole thing straight up. When you slap the mirror up from the lower front, typically both front and lower rear connections release. At that point, just lift up. I see as I write this that Jay found a video. Good Job.
Ok - about the panels for the oil change - on or about the same time as BRP changed the design of the HCM oil filter, they changed the design of the panels such that you don't need to remove all of the panels that the manual says to. If that mod has been done to your machine, you can forget the mirrors. You just need to remove that wing shaped water reflector in front of the left foot peg, loosen the upper front and lower front torx screws on the metal foot peg support piece that secures that black kick panel, remove the other plastic rivets and hardware securing that kick panel that was behind the water deflector, and slide the kick panel down and forward to remove it. Yeah, they all have their own personality and work a little different. And if it is still there, remove the splash panel from underneath.
If you have an SE5, one way to tell if the filter mod, and thus the panel mod, was done, is to see if you have stickers placarded on your oil tank telling you to use the new sized HCM filter. Another way is to get down on the floor and look underneath at how the front two upper and lower torx screws secure the kick panel. If they are just two fittings that simply squeeze it tight without holes, then you're good to go and have the new panel mod and hardware.
One last thing - if you do remove all side panels for whatever reason in the future, be sure to follow the instructions in your owners manual. You do NOT want to remove those two silver cosmetic looking torx screws that are visible on the side panel. That panel pulls out from two rubber grommets underneath. Once you get it removed, you'll understand.
First, about the mirror, there is a snap on connection on the front there where the mirror housing comes to a point, and there is a snap on connection on the lower rear. The top connection is simply a slip on. So, if you have both the front and lower rear connections unsnapped - or maybe more correctly unslapped - then just lift the whole thing straight up. When you slap the mirror up from the lower front, typically both front and lower rear connections release. At that point, just lift up. I see as I write this that Jay found a video. Good Job.
Ok - about the panels for the oil change - on or about the same time as BRP changed the design of the HCM oil filter, they changed the design of the panels such that you don't need to remove all of the panels that the manual says to. If that mod has been done to your machine, you can forget the mirrors. You just need to remove that wing shaped water reflector in front of the left foot peg, loosen the upper front and lower front torx screws on the metal foot peg support piece that secures that black kick panel, remove the other plastic rivets and hardware securing that kick panel that was behind the water deflector, and slide the kick panel down and forward to remove it. Yeah, they all have their own personality and work a little different. And if it is still there, remove the splash panel from underneath.
If you have an SE5, one way to tell if the filter mod, and thus the panel mod, was done, is to see if you have stickers placarded on your oil tank telling you to use the new sized HCM filter. Another way is to get down on the floor and look underneath at how the front two upper and lower torx screws secure the kick panel. If they are just two fittings that simply squeeze it tight without holes, then you're good to go and have the new panel mod and hardware.
One last thing - if you do remove all side panels for whatever reason in the future, be sure to follow the instructions in your owners manual. You do NOT want to remove those two silver cosmetic looking torx screws that are visible on the side panel. That panel pulls out from two rubber grommets underneath. Once you get it removed, you'll understand.
Mikey
Well-known member
Watch the videos, the first time will be the worse one!! But the mirrors, if you want to make your life a lot easyer, put a set of magic mirrors on!!! Best thing I have put on my 2012 RTL hands down! Every thing you do, you have to take the mirrors off, they make that job so much easyer and they will take out some of the shake in the mirrors when you go down the road, they will be rock solid! Good luck, you'll be ok!!:clap:
Grayfox
New member
I have a 2012 rts sm5 the only panel i take off is the one where i put the oil in. I removed and left off the ones under the spyder never had a problem from that
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Snowbelt Spyder is referring to the two "fasteners" indicated by red arrows, don't try to unscrew these, they just pop out of their respective grommets.
Look at the picture above. There is no need to remove the mirrors. Remove the panel with the blue arrows 1st, Be careful to unhook the tab in the top corner of the panel. Next lift seat. Right where the seat starts to go around the side of the Spyder you will see a torx bolt. Remove that and you can now lift panel with the red arrows by popping the shiny torx screws out of their rubber grommets. This will expose the torx screw and plastic pins you need to remove the panel that goes along the seat and around the front of the left bag. There are 3 Torx screws to remove plus one on top. That one is short so don't put it somewhere else. A long one wont fit in there. Now remove the black rubber panel. There is also a real long torx, the last one at the back, remember where it goes. You can also get the black grill out now 3 pins. There a couple of other bolts or pins I may have missed but you will see those. The important thing is to get that one torx out so you can pop the red arrowed panel out and lift it up to get to the panel under it. No mirror removel
Mikey
Well-known member
I take the next panel back also, like the elbow room getting the filters off and I can check out the sprockets, belt!! Just me!!:cheers:
Lin
New member
Lamonster did a segment in his Garage Tech years ago on this. Check it out. It worked great for me on my 2011.
http://www.lamonstergarage.com/rt-998-oil-change/
http://www.lamonstergarage.com/rt-998-oil-change/
