• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

New rear tire

stmike 1800

Member
Installed a altimax rt 43 rear tire ,piece of cake (son has a good tire machine ). Adjusting the belt though is a pain in the rear,what bone head engineer designed the adjusters ?
 
First, when changing a tire correctly, the adjusters do not normally need changing. Leave the belt alignment alone.

Second, once you know how they work and how to adjust them, they work very well and easily.
 
First, when changing a tire correctly, the adjusters do not normally need changing. Leave the belt alignment alone.

Second, once you know how they work and how to adjust them, they work very well and easily.

:agree:...What most folks here do is to remove the Shock BOLT first ….. this allows enough slack to move the belt to the side and drop the wheel /tire down …. If done this way the belt alignment remains the SAME as prior to wheel removal ….. Sooooooooooooooo next time remember doing it th:ohyea:is way ….. Mike
 
Installed a altimax rt 43 rear tire ,piece of cake (son has a good tire machine ). Adjusting the belt though is a pain in the rear,what bone head engineer designed the adjusters ?


One in Canada apparently, but if you do as suggested above after some research before you attack it you don't have those sort of problems.
 
I just slacked left side 3/4 turn ,pulled axle ,removed belt . Put it back together with no problems ,belt out of align .There are easier was to make adjusters i am sure . Over & out .
 
First, when changing a tire correctly, the adjusters do not normally need changing. Leave the belt alignment alone.

Second, once you know how they work and how to adjust them, they work very well and easily.

JC are you still using the "lower" belt tension?
If so can you tell me what value you have it set for? I have a 2018 F3L.
Thanks, Rick
 
Which size did you use? I'm looking at the 215/60 15 of the same tire.

I just bought that size, my second one, from Amazon, $91.34 delivered free today. Bought my first from Walmart in Feb '18 for $77.57, delivered free, but this year they wanted $107.98 with free delivery and Wally has outsourced it to a third party, Tire Bros.
 
I put the spyder up on my car hoist ,no fear of it falling .I did finally got the alignment were i wanted. It would be much easier to have a push pull system ,but that would make sense . I had the dealer adjust the belt three times because of burning smell , so i am not the only one that struggles with the adjustment.
 
JC are you still using the "lower" belt tension?
If so can you tell me what value you have it set for? I have a 2018 F3L.
Thanks, Rick

We aim for 90 to 100 lbs with the wheel lowered on the shock stop. (spec was 95). On most RTs this nearly eliminates belt vibration. Most F3s still need a tensioner to get rid of it.
 
BTW i could not believe how thin the old worn kenda is ,feels as thick as a balloon in the center.
I had the OEM tire it was changed @ 5,824 miles. I am now running the General Altimax RT 43 tire ( 2nd one installed this past winter.

The OEM was not safe enough to drive( bald in the center of the tire.)
Deanna
 
Back
Top