Just got my Spyder back from having a new rear tire put on. Took it out for about a 180 mile ride with nothing noticeably wrong. Rode smooth and straight. After I got it home I noticed the center of the rear tire was offset from the center of the fender by about 3/4 of an inch. After checking the level of the fender and aft body I placed a long level down along each side of the tire and drew out chalk lines. It appear as though it may be off by a couple of degrees tracking towards the right. I checked the belt and don't see any chaffing on it from a crooked alignment. I was just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about or is their some leeway to a perfect alignment? It may be an anal question but my wife and I are going on a 1500 mile trek and I'm still a new to the Spyder. I could take it to the dealer but may have to delay my trip at the rate they get things done. Thanks. 1st post.
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New rear tire alignment...
- Thread starter nidpilot
- Start date
Jeriatric
Thinks out loud
Leway
If it is not throwing codes you're witin BRP's leway. But, as proven time and time again over the years and confirmed by numerous posts. That leway is no friend to premature tire wear.
If you know or are near anyone who does ROLO/Outlaw alignments. At minimum. Ask them what they think.
Or consult one of the ROLO site sponsors.
If it is not throwing codes you're witin BRP's leway. But, as proven time and time again over the years and confirmed by numerous posts. That leway is no friend to premature tire wear.
If you know or are near anyone who does ROLO/Outlaw alignments. At minimum. Ask them what they think.
Or consult one of the ROLO site sponsors.
Bob Denman
New member
:shocked: You've got to call the dealer; explain their screw-up to them, and tell them that the bike is coming back, and they WILL have it ready for your trip!
Did the check and looks to be about 1/8 to 3/16 difference between the two sides. Thanks for that tidbit on how to check that. Much easier than the way I did it. I will call and see if they can come buy and pick it up tomorrow. I'm out of town between now and my trip so that is my delima. Thanks
Bob Denman
New member
Good lUck; please let us know what happens next! :thumbup:
Sarge707
Active member
I can say after spending a couple afternoons adjusting my belt tension and alignment that-
If the tire is tracking a few degrees to the right then the axle is being pulled a little more to the back on the right side so the axle is a little more forward on the left side and back a little on the right side.
If you loosen (Counterclockwise) your right adjuster an 1/8 to 1/4 turn on the right side, the axle will move forward a small amount and possible correct the problem.
Of course you have to loosen the axle bolts a good amount and then Jack the rear end of the ground a little by the frame and make the adjustment- Tighten up the axle again and try it to see if it helps? You also have to keep the belt in a happy area.
It can be a slow process, took me 2 afternoons to get it perfect?
If the tire is tracking a few degrees to the right then the axle is being pulled a little more to the back on the right side so the axle is a little more forward on the left side and back a little on the right side.
If you loosen (Counterclockwise) your right adjuster an 1/8 to 1/4 turn on the right side, the axle will move forward a small amount and possible correct the problem.
Of course you have to loosen the axle bolts a good amount and then Jack the rear end of the ground a little by the frame and make the adjustment- Tighten up the axle again and try it to see if it helps? You also have to keep the belt in a happy area.
It can be a slow process, took me 2 afternoons to get it perfect?
finless
New member
I don't get it. To get the belt adjusted so it is tracking and has the proper distance from the rear pulley flange, then whatever the axle angle is, it is what it is right? If you change the axle angel then this will change how the belt tracks on the pulley? I see no way around that?
Bob
Bob
PMK
Active member
Pretty much true, unless the OP is looking at belt alignment after backing up or a longer deceleration using the gearbox. The true best tracking will be rolling forward under a load.
PK
StanProff
New member
If the wheel is crooked the belt will either be running left or right on the rear pulley. No way around that. As noted before on the forum, the belt clearance to the flange of the rear pulley should be about a credit card width. It should run close but not touching the flange. You don't want it against the flange. If it is running away from the flange, over 1/8 inch or so, mine will be rubbing the outside of the engine pulley flange. The engine pulley has a flange on the outside where as the rear wheel pulley flange is on the inside towards the wheel. Not a lot of room for error on the adjustment. I have had two rear tires installed and each time the alignment of the belt was off when I got it home. Removing the wheel and not messing with the adjuster screws is not supposed to affect the belt alignment but it does. Maybe it is because the diameter of the tire has changed a small amount with the new rubber, I don't really know but I do know I have had to realign the belt both times. I can feel extra vibration in it when it is rubbing one of the flanges. Mine runs smoothest with that small credit card (or thumbnail) gap from the rear flange.
Normal or not....
This what I'm talking about. Center of tire is obviously offset from the center of fender. Belt is about a thumb nail thickness from the outside of the sprocket at the wheel and about the same from the flange on the sprocket at the engine. Not normal correct?
This what I'm talking about. Center of tire is obviously offset from the center of fender. Belt is about a thumb nail thickness from the outside of the sprocket at the wheel and about the same from the flange on the sprocket at the engine. Not normal correct?
finless
New member
I would NOT trust the plastic Tupperware and how it looks with the tire!
Scotty can probably add here but the rear tire and belt alignment, then the front tire alignment with the rear tire e.g. all 3 tire road patch locations are aligned....... Means nothing on how the Tupperware looks in relation to the tire.
Personally I would not screw with it unless you have alignment issues e.g. pulling left or right while riding.
Bob
Gray Ghost
New member
According to the 2013 Service Manual the specifications for Drive Belt Alignment Verification are:
DRIVE BELT AND REAR SPROCKET INTERNAL FLANGE GAP
Minimum 1mm (1/32 in)
Maximum 5mm (3/16 in)
MikeinGA
New member
Here is a good way to adjust your drive belt:
There are many other maintenance video on YouTube.
Mike
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Sarge707
Active member
Actually, The first thing I did was do it like this video and the tire would not move to one side or another so after about a 3/4 turn adjustment I tightened and went for a short ride and the belt was on the outer most part of the sprocket? Lesson learned . Do Little adjustments and test tension and tracking by riding and then keep adjusting!
Don,t rely on this guys method? IMHO ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!:dontknow:
finless
New member
FYI I looked at the back of my Spyder after returning home today. My plastic mud flap is also off center of the tire a little. Not as much as the OP but it is off side. I never even noticed it before to be honest!
Also I adjusted my belt on my 4600 mile service which I did myself. I used the above video and it worked fine for me. What is tricky is when you tighten the axel nuts it can cause the adjustment to shift. There is a little play in those adjusters. So for me that was the fiddly part! What I found was do the adjustment then drop the jack and let the tire sit on the ground. Now tighten the axel nuts. That worked for me after fiddling for an hour. My conclusion on that was when you drop the tire on the ground, due to the yoke moving up, it presses the axel back on the adjusters! Then with all the weight on it, when you tighten the axel nuts the axel doesn't move in the process.
Bob
Also I adjusted my belt on my 4600 mile service which I did myself. I used the above video and it worked fine for me. What is tricky is when you tighten the axel nuts it can cause the adjustment to shift. There is a little play in those adjusters. So for me that was the fiddly part! What I found was do the adjustment then drop the jack and let the tire sit on the ground. Now tighten the axel nuts. That worked for me after fiddling for an hour. My conclusion on that was when you drop the tire on the ground, due to the yoke moving up, it presses the axel back on the adjusters! Then with all the weight on it, when you tighten the axel nuts the axel doesn't move in the process.
Bob
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I really appreciate all the information. I will be dropping by the dealership before I leave on my trip. They have been informed of my concerns. I will probably try tinkering with it some when I have more spare time and no riding planned shortly afterwards. I really need to get more familiar and hands on with it. I've been overly cautious and too reliant on the dealer. I've had some rough dealings with the dealer I bought it from so now I have moved on to a new dealership but I have lost the trust I once had. Thanks again. I'm sure I will have more questions. It's good to know there is a good resource here for info.
MikeinGA
New member
It's to bad you don't live close to me. You could stop by and I could teach you how to do these type of adjustments. A friend of mine brings his RT over to change his oil and check adjustments. I have most of tools to do most of the maintenance and a good motorcycle jack and stands to make it a safe work environment.
Mike
finless
New member
FYI, I think I found how to fix the alignment of the trunk / mud flap with the rear tire.
Again it is not the axel. I bet you did not notice the missalignment until you got a new tire and looked. I certianly did not notice this until you made this post! Mine is off too....
Anyway look under your seat. There are 4 bolts in slotted holes that hold the entire trunk assembly on the bike. I looked under my seat this AM and noticed the bolts on one side were not in exatly the same position in the slots and the bolts on the other. So the trunk assembly can be "adjusted". A small movement in these slots would be a LARGE movement of the mud flap in relation to the tire!
I have not looked at the service manual yet to see if there are more than these 4 bolts but it appears you could loosen these 4 bolts and get some movement side to side of the entire trunk assembly thus aligning your rear mudflap with the tire!
My bet is this is all that is wrong here. Trunk assembly just needs to be centered better NOT messing with the rear axle just to get the mudflap aligned with the tire
Bob
Again it is not the axel. I bet you did not notice the missalignment until you got a new tire and looked. I certianly did not notice this until you made this post! Mine is off too....
Anyway look under your seat. There are 4 bolts in slotted holes that hold the entire trunk assembly on the bike. I looked under my seat this AM and noticed the bolts on one side were not in exatly the same position in the slots and the bolts on the other. So the trunk assembly can be "adjusted". A small movement in these slots would be a LARGE movement of the mud flap in relation to the tire!
I have not looked at the service manual yet to see if there are more than these 4 bolts but it appears you could loosen these 4 bolts and get some movement side to side of the entire trunk assembly thus aligning your rear mudflap with the tire!
My bet is this is all that is wrong here. Trunk assembly just needs to be centered better NOT messing with the rear axle just to get the mudflap aligned with the tire
Bob
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