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Need 12V + High Beam Switched Power

Drwerner

New member
Hi All, I am installing a set of Denali D3s (https://twistedthrottle.com/shop/li...d3-led-driving-light-with-datadim-technology/) with their new DialDim (https://twistedthrottle.com/shop/lighting/denali-dialdim-lighting-controller-universal-fit/) controller. DialDim allow you to control the lights in many ways including strobing them with your horn and going from 50% daytime power to 100% power when your high beams are on.

Getting to the horn wire is easy, does anyone know where a 12V+ to activate your "high beams" is located?

Thanks,

David
 
If you're asking where to find Switched +12v to power the lights, there's a GPS (+12v switched) connector behind the right side access cover just forward of the brake reservoir. It's plugged into a dummy socket if not in use.
If the question is where can you pick up the 12v that feeds the RT high beams, You'll need to trace the wires from the high beam. The service manual has the wiring and harness diagrams.
 
Thanks, I am using the GPS plug to power my GPS and a relay to control a light bar. I need the physical location of the "highbeam" wire. When I had my Goldwing a forum member was able to tell me it was the green wire from the left connector to the headlight. I was hoping to get lucky here :)
 
If you can access the high beam wires, I think you're looking for a Gray wire if I read the prints right. You can verify which wire it is with a voltmeter or test light on each wire. Cycle the high beams to find which wire is hot when high beam switch is on.
 
Might i suggest the trigger wire is used to power a relay that controls a fuse block that you connect the lights to? That way, you avoid the bike's fussy Canbus electronics.
 
Might i suggest the trigger wire is used to power a relay that controls a fuse block that you connect the lights to? That way, you avoid the bike's fussy Canbus electronics.

I think that wire on the Spyder that flips up the shutter for high beams is adequate for triggering the Denali high beam circuit. I don't think that wire has to carry the load of the light itself. But, it's worth verifying that.
 
David

Picture appears that you have or had 41-208BK focus driving lights on your Spyder. Did they give you enough light? Are you going to Denali D3s for switchable feature or will they give you more lighting distance out front. Could you do a short review on the Focus driving lights.

Thank You

Jim
 
David

Picture appears that you have or had 41-208BK focus driving lights on your Spyder. Did they give you enough light? Are you going to Denali D3s for switchable feature or will they give you more lighting distance out front. Could you do a short review on the Focus driving lights.

Thank You

Jim

Hi Jim,

I had the Denali D7s on my 2018 Goldwing and they were awesome - probably the best there is in terms of light output. I wanted something for the Spyder, but could not find a good way to mount them. I picked up the 41-208BK - FOCUS 3 1/2" DRIVING KIT for a really good price and mounted them. The lights are nice looking and well made and produce a white light that outdistances the stock lights. Compared to my Denali lights, they are not as bright. I would go back to the D7s but they are too big and heavy for the Focus Light mounts. The D3s with Denali's TriOptic Lens provide a hybrid driving and fog light - more to my liking. And they have the ability to automatically run at 50% power during the day, 100% on high beam - and they will strobe with your horn - a really nice feature. The Focus lights have a single Cree LED, the D3s have (3) 10W Cree LEDs. The Focus lights perform as advertised providing long relatively narrow illumination. The Denali lights with Hybrid lens have a concentrator over each LED to provide a wider and longer pattern. The Denali lights are amazingly well built and come from optics experts. I am really looking forward to getting them back on. The D3s are round, slightly smaller in diameter and do not have the visor (which gives a unique look). Does that help?
 
Drwerner
Thank You for the response. Your evaluation of the lights is great and helped me decide what to do. I’m going to do the same as you and can remove the D3s when I trade it in.
Jim
 
Hi Jim,

You might consider Big Bike Parts "mini" driving lights, they are more reasonably priced and will get you the same bracket :)
 
Hi Jim, I mounted a Show Chrome Electronic Isolation Fuse Block behind the pop-out grill area above the frunk. That gave me ignition-on power. I then used the Denali wiring to connect to the high beam switch and my horn so the lights go to full power on high beam and strobe with use of the horn. I used the turn signal outputs and ignition-on power to control inView to give me wireless brake and turn signals on the back of my helmet. Really easy. Where are you located?
 
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