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My rear end is jarring when riding over sewer caps, is this normal?

Mikearmentano

New member
Very new to riding a spyder. My 2015 F3-S produces a jolt, sometimes pretty hard, when riding over many recessed sewer caps. It almost feels like I am riding a hardtail when this happens. I ride 2 up, combined weight is 300 lbs. I have read that the rear shock is not that great. Is this normal? Could I actually be bottoming out?
 
1st Mod

Get yourself a new shock before you do anything else.... The new 2up shock works out well, you don't have to break the bank, but get a new shock.
 
300lbs is more than the design load for the stock rear spring on the F3S. There are several options for upgrades. I went with the Elka but many have reported good results with the BRP upgraded offering also.
 
Curious. ....

What tire pressure are you running in the rear tire...?? cause your either crusing with the shock bottomed out or the tire pressure is to high. Now the only other thing would be you have some nasty :cus: manhole covers...:roflblack:
 
Did you replace the shock yourself? Did you need an alignment afterwards?

Yes, and no. Although an alignment is a good idea but the rear shock replacement does not affect alignment.

I would have done my own alignment anyway.
 
300lbs is more than the design load for the stock rear spring on the F3S. There are several options for upgrades. I went with the Elka but many have reported good results with the BRP upgraded offering also.

I must admit, I am confused... he said their combined weight was 300 lbs, and the Spyder says right now it that max weight is 457 lbs. If the spring is truly designed to carry less than 300 lbs, would that not mean that BRP's max weight claim is inaccurate? And if so, should they not replace the spring at their cost?
 
I must admit, I am confused... he said their combined weight was 300 lbs, and the Spyder says right now it that max weight is 457 lbs. If the spring is truly designed to carry less than 300 lbs, would that not mean that BRP's max weight claim is inaccurate? And if so, should they not replace the spring at their cost?

I would have to agree that if the manual says it can take the 457 weight and the F3 has a 2 seater design and the Spyder is bottoming out at 300 lbs then I think that would be a valid argument. You could try opening up a ticket with BRP and see what happens.
However, I had a Honda CRV and when my Uncle that weighed 275 rode in the back, my shocks would bottom out over bumps. Did I think that Honda would pay me to get my shocks upgraded. Nope, I am pretty should they would not.

Life is not fair to the little people.:sour::sour:
 
Elka it is then

What tire pressure are you running in the rear tire...?? cause your either crusing with the shock bottomed out or the tire pressure is to high. Now the only other thing would be you have some nasty :cus: manhole covers...:roflblack:

I Will check the rear tire pressure. Manhole covers are really not nasty at all. I am amazed that this is causing the trike to bottom out. I am ordering an Elka stage 2 with remote adjustment.. Thanks for the advice to all
 
Replace that bad shock but for now avoid riding over those sewer cover coz they stink:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:
 
Elka vs fox upgrade

So, there is a back order on the Elka Stage 2 remote adjustment parts. I do not want to wait till June to fix this problem. Is the Fox rear shock upgrade from BRP comparable? Remote adjustment is important to me.
 
Upgrade fox podium 2.0 rear shock & spring?

For told me that they use the same weight spring on their unit..... Junk....

get the stage two .. I never ride two up so I didn't bother with the remote unit... How often do you think you will be adjusting it?

mark

Are you saying that the fox podium 2.0 rear shock upgrade does not come with an upgraded heavier spring? I alternate riding solo and 2 up so I would be adjusting it a couple of times per week.
 
I replaced the shock on my F3 with the upgraded one from BRP. it does ride better and I am no small man. Also rode well with my wife on board too. I thinks it's crap BRP doesn't step up. :banghead:
 
I Will check the rear tire pressure. Manhole covers are really not nasty at all......

What tire pressure did you end up with??

If you are still running the Kenda crap tire on the rear, because of their 'not even as strong as a wet tram ticket' tire construction you might hafta keep up around 26-30 psi or so to remain as safe as they'll ever be; but if you are running a 'normal' passenger construction tire like any of the car tire options that fit, you can probably run somewhat lower pressures with no adverse effects except a lot less bum-numbing shocks from the roads &/or manhole covers & still be a whole lot safer & get better handling than with the OE rubbish!! ;)

Running lower air pressures in a tire that has stiffer & stronger sidewalls plus 4 radial tread plies with load & speed ratings that are almost double the Kenda's should still vastly exceed the safety limits of the Kenda & give you a lot more 'forgiving' ride over the rough &/or jarring bits. In fact, if you are running a passenger construction tire you probably should be running lower pressures anyway, simply because the stronger tires won't need the same volume or pressure of air inside to carry the significantly lighter load a Spyder imposes instead of a car. I'm running just 18psi in the Kumho on the rear of my RT (that's what the math worked out off the load from Kumho's published figures) and it's already lasted over 22,000 km vs the less than 5,000 km I got from the Kenda & looks like going a lot further too - plus it's worlds ahead in ride, handling, & traction!! :thumbup:
 
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