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My Favorite Mod Has Changed

EdMat

Well-known member
First I want to thank Blueknight911 for bringing it up and to Grandpot for his refinements.

Emergency frunk release. Did it some time back. Happened this weekend. When I tried the key there was no resistance, no response, no nothing. Pulled the emergency release. Worked perfect. :clap:

Everything looks fine at the latch. Must be something at the key, but I can't get a good view of it to tell what is wrong.

If you have not done it do it now. And the seat release mod. It's one of those you don't need it til you need it and anything else is a big PITA.
 
Please tell me more about the releases. Who do I contact? Is there any photos or literature available? Source? Just need to know more.

Thanks,

John
 
First I want to thank Blueknight911 for bringing it up and to Grandpot for his refinements.

Emergency frunk release. Did it some time back. Happened this weekend. When I tried the key there was no resistance, no response, no nothing. Pulled the emergency release. Worked perfect. :clap:

Everything looks fine at the latch. Must be something at the key, but I can't get a good view of it to tell what is wrong.

If you have not done it do it now. And the seat release mod. It's one of those you don't need it til you need it and anything else is a big PITA.
:

:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
 
There are (2) cables that end in nubs/ferrels (there's a technical term but I can't remember what it is), one to your seat release and the other to your frunk release. Both terminate on the "steering column". These get pulled when you depress/turn your key (one way for the frunk, the other way for the seat). If one (or both) of these comes loose, the lock won't work. Same sort of system for a cable clutch or cable throttle. Nice system in that you can lock both the seat and frunk by removing the key but I agree there should be some way to bypass these. Maybe LaMonster will come up with something commercially for those that are technically challenged.
 
Please tell me more about the releases. Who do I contact? Is there any photos or literature available? Source? Just need to know more.

Thanks,

John

The easiest way to do the " frunk " is this ... I used 1/16th coated cable from Home Depot ( or Lowe's ) I took the frunk latch assembly off to do mine .... two 10mm bolts .... dis-connect the OEM latch cable ( goes to the ignition switch ) if you have an older RT it may have the electric release, dis-connect that to .... Drill a 1/16th hole in the end of the latch lever ( this gives you MORE Leverage ) ... take off the insulation at the end , put it thru hole and put a Alumin. ferrule on it and crimp ( I made my own, but HD sells small ones to ) .... the coated cable should be about 2 Ft. .... to make pulling the cable easier put something on the other end piece of wood , plastic etc. and secure the cable in that with another ferrule.... You need to put the release cable towards the right side of the Spyder ( so it will pull the lever ) .... I just put the other end over the top of the Air duct grille on the right side ..... easy peasey ........... for the Seat latch, I bent the little arm that holds the OEM cable to release most of the tension, so my seat will lift by pulling up at the front ..... I removed my gas shock and just have a manual ROD if I want the seat to stay up..... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:
 
I can't hold back from shaking my head and laughing at the same time. Members here on this forum are such a great wealth of knowledge on a myriad of topics ......
But to have to jury rig - not one - but two release switches on a $25K + machine is an embarrassement to the Engineering Department at BRP!!
Thanks to the members on this forum for helping to improve our rides!!
 
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