1330cc My 2014 RT is Over heating - any ideas on how to correct?

[John Moody]

I have a 2014 RT Limited with 40k plus miles. Highway driving temperature gauge reads normal (just below halfway mark), but when I drive below 35 mph my reverse fan kicked in (minute or 2 later) and temperature gauge goes very high when driving fast again (highway speed) temperature goes back to normal. Dealership hook to the computer and said the water pump is working ok and when they raising rpm above 1400 temperature goes back to normal. Radiator fluid level is ok. Not sure what to do to correct the problem. Dealership is going to flush the radiator and add fresh fluid, but not sure if this will correct the problem. Need help please I missing my ride the last few days.

 

[Peter Aawen]

If your Spyder was a 4WD or diesel truck I'd be suggesting the viscous coupler for the fan wasn't working properly, so the engine cools well enough when you've got a fair amount of airflow, which is usually only at speed with little load, but it runs hot whenever it has very little airflow volume when you're travelling slow because the fan is just not doing all that it should be doing!! :dontknow:

But this is a Spyder, with thermostat activated electric fans.... so maybe the fans aren't doing what they should, or maybe the ducting leading air flow to the radiators down the sides of the frunk are at least partially blocked?!?

Maybe you should pull the front grilles & check that all ducting down the sides of the frunk are clean & not partially blocked with dust, mud, grass seeds etc or something along those lines before doing anything else; and if all that ducting's not blocked at least some, then I reckon it's gotta be time to check out the fans & their operation to make sure they are cutting in and running as & when & as hard as they should?!? :shocked:

And if it's not either of those, it's probably time to check the thermostat for proper opening & closing at approp temps; then if it's still not sorted, pull the rads out, backflush the whole cooling system & clean the rad cores & fins inside & out; and if it's still doing the wrong thing, then maybe it's time to start looking elsewhere?!? :dontknow:

Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[Freddy]

Yeah, good luck with all that John :shocked: :read: :helpsmilie:

 

[Highwayman2013]

The radiators can get a bunch of debris stuck in the fins, check that out first.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have a 2014 RT Limited with 40k plus miles. Highway driving temperature gauge reads normal (just below halfway mark), but when I drive below 35 mph my reverse fan kicked in (minute or 2 later) and temperature gauge goes very high when driving fast again (highway speed) temperature goes back to normal. Dealership hook to the computer and said the water pump is working ok and when they raising rpm above 1400 temperature goes back to normal. Radiator fluid level is ok. Not sure what to do to correct the problem. Dealership is going to flush the radiator and add fresh fluid, but not sure if this will correct the problem. Need help please I missing my ride the last few days.

I have the same Spyder you have with the same mileage …. I still have the same anti-freeze as when delivered …. the only time my Fans go into reverse is if I'm sitting and idling …. If you still have the orig. anti-freeze it won't be a waste of money having the flush and re-place done …. but I think that dealer is Guessing about the fix ( and making money from it ) ….. Since you have the SE trans, you can't be lugging it and therefore straining the system..... I re-moved my OEM grills and have ones that can be completely removed for cleaning the fins … You can do it by removing the Frunk for access. Another thing to check is - is the cap on CORRECTLY - the system needs to be pressurized to work correctly …. good luck … Mike hyea:

 

[Chupaca]

Have to agree....

Start with cleaning the grills and radiator fins for better flow as if it has not been done for 40,000 miles it has build up. Now if the reverse fans are coming on at the wrong time it would be time to check that system as they were designed to remove heat from the engine compartment when in a slow or stopped condition. Let us know what you find....:thumbup:

 

[Easy Rider]

If the fans are running on reverse at any speed above about 5 MPH......then they are resisting the proper flow of air and effectively causing NO FLOW of air across the radiator.

Before you spend any money on anything else, that MUST be fixed first.

 

[SuperG]

If this were a car, all indications would be a faulty, sticking thermostat. They do go bad occasionally. Not an expensive part to replace.

 

[John Moody]

bike stall in the shop dealer may get to it next week. They going to flush the radiator and add fresh fluid. I hope this will correct the problem and I ask about the thermostat. Been 3 week without riding, hopefully I remember
how to ride :riding:

 

[canamjhb]

If it is a thermostat, know that this is NOT an inexpensive fix. The thermostat and water pump are both one unit. My bike is in the shop now for a stuck thermostat and the dealer quoted me close to 1K for repair except mine is being covered by warranty. Another engineering genius from BRP..... Jim

 

[Easy Rider]

bike stall in the shop dealer may get to it next week. They going to flush the radiator and add fresh fluid. I hope this will correct the problem and I ask about the thermostat. Been 3 week without riding, hopefully I remember
how to ride :riding:

It will NOT fix any problem.......as long as the fans are running the WRONG WAY AT LOW SPEEDS.

IF.... what you said is really true, you MUST point that out to the shop.......or this is going to be a very costly and frustrating experience.

but when I drive below 35 mph my reverse fan kicked in

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

bike stall in the shop dealer may get to it next week. They going to flush the radiator and add fresh fluid. I hope this will correct the problem and I ask about the thermostat. Been 3 week without riding, hopefully I remember
how to ride :riding:

" flush & replace coolant " …… IMHO if this fixes your issue …. you will have been the recipient of a Miracle ……………...good luck ….. Mike hyea:

 

[SpyderAnn01]

My radiators on my 14RT were replaced when they did the same thing. I had had two cases of it overheating once in Alaska and the other in Quebec, the common denominator was we had ridden on dirt/mud roads in rain. My fins were caked with mud so no air was flowing. BRP replaced them under extended warranty while we were at the 10th Anniversary in Valcourt.

 

[John Moody]

Finally got my spyder back yesterday after replacing the water pump. took her on a 250 miles road trip Saturday with no overheating problem. :yes:

 

[JeriK]

Just got back from a 9500 mile trip cross country on my 2016 F3 Limited, and had several problems with overheating of the engine. Once going into Palm Desert but the air temp was 114F not a big surprise when we got off the interstate into town with traffic lights the bike overheated. I got off the road before going into limp home mode but the bike was not running well.. no acceleration. Anyway.. had it checked out and needed some coolant.. all fixed until the next 3 times I was under load in 1st gear (uphill behind slow cars) and it over heated again. Fan was running but not doing enough and the outside temp was in the upper 70's. Dealership in Rapid City checked everything out and all was good. Any suggestions?

 

[Easy Rider]

Any suggestions?

IF.....the other basics have been checked out.....like fans running at the right speed AND DIRECTION, air intake not blocked (radiator fins clean) and pressure cap good, then.....you have posted this in a thread where a water pump had failed and that was the problem. Suggestion.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Just got back from a 9500 mile trip cross country on my 2016 F3 Limited, and had several problems with overheating of the engine. Once going into Palm Desert but the air temp was 114F not a big surprise when we got off the interstate into town with traffic lights the bike overheated. I got off the road before going into limp home mode but the bike was not running well.. no acceleration. Anyway.. had it checked out and needed some coolant.. all fixed until the next 3 times I was under load in 1st gear (uphill behind slow cars) and it over heated again. Fan was running but not doing enough and the outside temp was in the upper 70's. Dealership in Rapid City checked everything out and all was good. Any suggestions?

The cooling system in your Spyder needs to be " Pressurized " for it to work properly ….. I have read the most common fault is a Rad CAP not put on properly...… Under normal temps that might work , but you were in Extreme Temps under load ….. and this may caused a leak ….. Mike hyea:

 

[JeriK]

The cooling system in your Spyder needs to be " Pressurized " for it to work properly ….. I have read the most common fault is a Rad CAP not put on properly...… Under normal temps that might work , but you were in Extreme Temps under load ….. and this may caused a leak ….. Mike hyea:

Everything checked out at the 1st dealership..only some coolant needed. After it happened again I went to the dealer in Rapid City. They worked on it for 2 hours.. ran it for 20 minutes at 2000 RPMs and the fan kicked in at 235 degrees as it should and the temp never got over the 1/2 way mark. No codes in the system etc. I was just wondering if anyone else had a problem and what could be done to get the bike to run cooler. I would sure appreciate a cooler ride in the summer!

 

[JeriK]

. I re-moved my OEM grills and have ones that can be completely removed for cleaning the fins … You can do it by removing the Frunk for access.

Mike.. Who has aftermarket grilles for the F3?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Everything checked out at the 1st dealership..only some coolant needed. After it happened again I went to the dealer in Rapid City. They worked on it for 2 hours.. ran it for 20 minutes at 2000 RPMs and the fan kicked in at 235 degrees as it should and the temp never got over the 1/2 way mark. No codes in the system etc. I was just wondering if anyone else had a problem and what could be done to get the bike to run cooler. I would sure appreciate a cooler ride in the summer!

It's possible that the Cap wasn't 100% sealed and then at the other dealership they got it on 100% …… and system became fully pressurized …. my best guess ….. Mike hyea: