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Long Term Storage Advice

So after thinking I would never have to move again until I retire from the Army, Uncle Sam informed me today that I would be going to Korea for 12 months beginning in September. Not a happy camper...

My questions is, how should I prep my Spyder for a year long hibernation? It will stay in my garage at home with the wife and kids, but won't be ridden for at least 12 months. I have a maintainer, but I heard a "techmate opimate 4" is the way to go for the long term?

any concerns with tires, fluids, etc?

Thanks in advance.
 
SELL IT

SELL IT, & BUY A NEW ONE UPON YOUR RETURN....
THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE TO OUR AGAIN GREAT COUNTRY...
DAN P
SPYD3R
 
Thank you!

Selling did cross my mind, but I would lose my @$$ on farkles and upgrades. It's only a year old.
I was in a similar boat a couple years ago before I retired. Was sent to the sandbox for a year. I decided to keep it because the wife rides it but wont ride without me and knew it would sit. I added Seafoam to the tank, topped it off. Put it on the tender and placed cardboard under the tires, made sure tires were aired up as well. The wife would go out to the garage every couple of weeks and just crank them and let them run for a bit. When I got home, both bikes cranked right up and off we went. Wanted to get that old gas through the bikes as soon as possible.

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Agree...

:agree: I would also change the oil and filter/s along with the full tank with seafood added.:thumbup:
 
Chris,
If you look upon this assignment as a chance to see a really neat part of the World; it will become an exciting time for you! :congrats:
Not knowing much about how these things work; will your family be travelling with you?

(Back to that S L O W and unpowered F-3 of yours... :D)
In honor of your service to our Country: I am willing (as a great personal sacrifice!) to allow you to store your bike in my garage. I will even force myself to exercise it regularly, and keep it ready for your return! :thumbup:
I'll just need you to leave me with several signed checks: I've heard that the tires don't last very long on these bikes! :D

And Thank you for serving! nojoke
 
12 months can be a bit, but not forever.

Myself, I would use ethanol free rec gas for the last few fill ups. Even when we ride constantly, I use Yamalube Fuel Med RX. Myself, my experience with Stabil has had poor results in lawn equipment when stored. Yamalube Fuel Med RX is proven to work well when fuel components are inspected. I would definately use a smart type device to preserve the battery. My choice is the Battery Minder as it adds a desulfating phase most units do not have. If possible, raise the vehicle add keep the weight off the tires. As for the engine, always best to presevre them by fogging the cylinders, however, the 1330 may use Nikasil coated cylinder walls. In that case, I would accomplish an oil and filter change after a long ride to ensure no condensation and all the contaminents and acids drain with the oil. Refill the oil and give it a short ride. Lastly, as an option, you might consider draining the coolant, or replacing the coolant. You mention the machine is pretty new so this may not be a concern. Also, it never hurts to replace brake fluid with a flush and refill, that should be done every 2 years per the recomended intervals. Your owners manual should have a detailed list you can reference also.
 
Go for a last ride and burn off as much old gas as you can, refill with new gas and add a fuel stabilizer. Dump the old oil and coolant, change filters and replace with new fluids. The oil contains contaminants that will end up as sludge so fresh fluids are a must.

Support it on blocks or jackstands to keep the tires from flat spotting. Stuff rags into any intake port and exhaust openings to keep critters out. Put on a battery maintainer.

I caution the bit about starting it up and idling it to charge the battery. If it's on a maintainer you shouldn't have to charge it. Running to circulate fluids and oil is unnecessary. Unless you run the engine fully up to temperature, it may not burn off any condensation in the pistons and exhaust - resulting in chances for rust. If you do run it, run it long enough to heat up all the fluids.
 
Go for a last ride and burn off as much old gas as you can, refill with new gas and add a fuel stabilizer. Dump the old oil and coolant, change filters and replace with new fluids. The oil contains contaminants that will end up as sludge so fresh fluids are a must.

Support it on blocks or jackstands to keep the tires from flat spotting. Stuff rags into any intake port and exhaust openings to keep critters out. Put on a battery maintainer.

I caution the bit about starting it up and idling it to charge the battery. If it's on a maintainer you shouldn't have to charge it. Running to circulate fluids and oil is unnecessary. Unless you run the engine fully up to temperature, it may not burn off any condensation in the pistons and exhaust - resulting in chances for rust. If you do run it, run it long enough to heat up all the fluids.
That's good advice, I would fill it with non-ethanol gas as well and take the battery out and leave it on a good maintainer. And Thank you for your service.
 
Storage??

So after thinking I would never have to move again until I retire from the Army, Uncle Sam informed me today that I would be going to Korea for 12 months beginning in September. Not a happy camper...

My questions is, how should I prep my Spyder for a year long hibernation? It will stay in my garage at home with the wife and kids, but won't be ridden for at least 12 months. I have a maintainer, but I heard a "techmate opimate 4" is the way to go for the long term?

any concerns with tires, fluids, etc?

Thanks in advance.

Teach your wife how to drive it, Mine would never sit still as she drives it now a lot of the time. Also show her how to winter prep if can't be ridden year round. Might be supprised what wives can do, especially with enough coffee! :coffee:
 
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