Okay here's the deal, I bought a new 2014 RT Limited last weekend and the front daylight running lights, tag and tail light are shutting off after riding for right at 30min! They will only come on when the machine is cold so that tells me something is getting hot and causing the issue. I have checked all the relays and fuses and found nothing there causing it. Has anyone else had this issue or maybe know what could be going on?
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light issues 2014 RTL
- Thread starter KCannaday
- Start date
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Your problem appears to be a "new" one. Hope the electrical gurus will come aboard soon with some ideas.
ThreeWheels
Active member
Clearly it's not the fuses or relays.
It must be something else in the harness.
I'm afraid you'll need to check all of the connections in the wiring harness.
You might find something obvious, like a burnt or damaged connector.
On the other hand, you may never actually find the problem.
Simply breaking and remaking the connections could repair the issue.
I hate stuff like this. Especially if the latter is the case, since you never find a definitive problem to fix.
Good luck and please keep us posted.
It must be something else in the harness.
I'm afraid you'll need to check all of the connections in the wiring harness.
You might find something obvious, like a burnt or damaged connector.
On the other hand, you may never actually find the problem.
Simply breaking and remaking the connections could repair the issue.
I hate stuff like this. Especially if the latter is the case, since you never find a definitive problem to fix.
Good luck and please keep us posted.
Which fuse? And whats up with these special torque screws with the pin in the middle, I can't even remove them!!
jcthorne
Well-known member
I was going to suspect a poor quality relay that is heating up and the coil drops.
Dont remove the security torx bolts. Thats why BRP put them in, so you dont remove those. They hold a pin that sits in a grommet on the other side, they do not get removed unless you break the pin.
Relays and fuses are in the junction boxes up front in the frunk. FIRST thing I would do is open the panels and pull and reseat each of the relays. Same with the fuses looking for any that are real easy to remove indicating a poorly formed connector or crimp. I had one in the transmission control connector that I was very lucky to find and fix.
Dont remove the security torx bolts. Thats why BRP put them in, so you dont remove those. They hold a pin that sits in a grommet on the other side, they do not get removed unless you break the pin.
Relays and fuses are in the junction boxes up front in the frunk. FIRST thing I would do is open the panels and pull and reseat each of the relays. Same with the fuses looking for any that are real easy to remove indicating a poorly formed connector or crimp. I had one in the transmission control connector that I was very lucky to find and fix.
That was the first thing I did was to check all the fuses and relays, I even swaped out the relays with matxhing ones in the other fuse box and the lights wouldn't come on. So your telling me I cant even remove the covers off this thing because they have it booby trapped for the warranty!
I miss understood about the security screw. I see what you meant now. Lol
can-am sam
New member
Take your machine back to the dealer. It should be covered by the warranty.
SpyderAnn01
Active member
Take it back to the dealer for sure but you might also want to purchase the service manual. There are several places that sell it online. It will tell you what panels need to come off for each job. Think of your Spyder as a giant puzzle. Or maybe as a giant PITA. :roflblack:
I already took it to one od the dealers local to me and I knew more about the machine than the tech, it took him an hour to finally get his computer to connect to my spyder and read the codes! the dealer i bought it from is 3.5hrs away, we might be going back there in a week or so to buy another one and if i do ill take it back to them. I have all the panels off of it and have checked every plug I can find and still no luck?
Phil
Mod Monster
Elusive issue. All the things I'd suspect have been mentioned. You look for commonalities between all items of course. Even pulling the body off (we call it Tupperware), without an eye that readily knows what things should look like, it might be a needle in a haystack. I'm going to look at the schematic and see if I can find anything that jumps out.
NOW.. Since you are in OK City, you have a short ryde to Springfield MO where the BEST techs in the nation have Pitbull Powersports and Lamonster garage. I bet if you set an appointment, they could chase it down. But as has been suggested.... Warranty.
Phil
Mod Monster
I just looked at the schematic ( I printed a huge one that hangs in my garage).
F1 is the fuse that powers the DRLs and the plate light (I stopped hunting when I found that commonality). It runs through the ignition switch then heads to each of the lights through a couple of the connectors. It also powers something in the cluster (not sure what) so you may also see an issue there.
IF you can catch it failing, I'd immediately do a voltage reading at the F1 location, then at the back of the ignition switch (hard to do), etc. Good luck.
F1 is the fuse that powers the DRLs and the plate light (I stopped hunting when I found that commonality). It runs through the ignition switch then heads to each of the lights through a couple of the connectors. It also powers something in the cluster (not sure what) so you may also see an issue there.
IF you can catch it failing, I'd immediately do a voltage reading at the F1 location, then at the back of the ignition switch (hard to do), etc. Good luck.
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