Just went from 2011 to 2014 RT-S... QUESTIONS.

[FrankPa]

Just picked up a 2014 RT-S in Cognac with 3400 miles on it. I only wish my 2011 off the dealer floor was detailed as nicely as this 2014; it's absolutely perfect!

Now for the questions:

1) I got used to never letting the 998 get below 3K rpm, but the 1330 ACE is a whole different beast. I'm looking for real-world experience advice for lowest permissible rpm, proper shift points, etc. All with real knowledge are invited to join the discussion. Thank you, in advance.

2) I have a BRP trailer hitch and wiring harness (but no trailer) which I may install. Will it provide any protection to the rear in case of a bump, or is it a liability since it's connected directly to the axle. I realize there may also be issues because of the constant weight that far back? Again, I'm looking for real knowledge (not WAG).

3) If I decide to sell the BRP hitch and wiring harness, what a fair asking price and is anyone here interested in it.

4) I also have a pair of the full Seal RT DLX floor boards from my 2011, in perfect condition, that I would entertain offers for. I'll post an actual ad later in the proper section.

Thanks everyone for your input!

 

[ARtraveler]

:congrats: The operating range for the 1330 is in the 3000 - 3500 range. The 998 should have been in the 5000 - 5500 range.

65 mph plus on the highway in sixth gear will run at about 3,500 on the tach. I usually keep mine in that range and adjust accordingly for other speeds. 55 mph keeps me in 5th gear around 3,500. Shift points: I go by sound and feel. My sweet spot is 3000 - 3500. To hard to think different numbers for each gear. Downshifting: I let the spyder do its thing (99%) of the time. Have not blown up my 1330 yet. 28K and running good.

Over 120,000 assorted miles on the 998's and no engine problems either.

You will find that lower revs work just fine down to about 2,500. The unit will shift down by itself if you get to low. You get a bit more power to move out if you keep it 3,000 and above. :yes:

 

[Deanna777]

:congrats: & 1330club



I have a suggestion for the your spyder dash, paint it( see any of my posts or Threads that), the same color as your spyder.

Deanna

 

[trikermutha]

Keep the hitch for now you may need it later if not you can sell it.

The 1330 you can run the rpms low 2500 and wont hurt the Spyder any. Some will offer other suggestions.

 

[Easy Rider]

1) I got used to never letting the 998 get below 3K rpm, but the 1330 ACE is a whole different beast. I'm looking for real-world experience advice for lowest permissible rpm, proper shift points, etc. All with real knowledge are invited to join the discussion. Thank you, in advance.

I try not to let mine get below 2,500 but it seems perfectly happy to pull itself up from 2000, on the flat, that is.

Lots of torque available and no reason to worry about what RPM you are running, except maybe in extreme conditions.

And there is no "proper shift point". Do whatever is comfortable for you.

 

[sealfloorboards]

Just picked up a 2014 RT-S in Cognac with 3400 miles on it. I only wish my 2011 off the dealer floor was detailed as nicely as this 2014; it's absolutely perfect!

Now for the questions:

1) I got used to never letting the 998 get below 3K rpm, but the 1330 ACE is a whole different beast. I'm looking for real-world experience advice for lowest permissible rpm, proper shift points, etc. All with real knowledge are invited to join the discussion. Thank you, in advance.

2) I have a BRP trailer hitch and wiring harness (but no trailer) which I may install. Will it provide any protection to the rear in case of a bump, or is it a liability since it's connected directly to the axle. I realize there may also be issues because of the constant weight that far back? Again, I'm looking for real knowledge (not WAG).

3) If I decide to sell the BRP hitch and wiring harness, what a fair asking price and is anyone here interested in it.

4) I also have a pair of the full Seal RT DLX floor boards from my 2011, in perfect condition, that I would entertain offers for. I'll post an actual ad later in the proper section.

Thanks everyone for your input!

Look under your Seals. If you have 3 holes on the front (Hwy Peg) area, you can put your Seals on top of your BRP small floorboards. PN me if you are interested, and I'll get you set up.
Ride in comfort,
John

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

3) If I decide to sell the BRP hitch and wiring harness, what a fair asking price and is anyone here interested in it.

About 1/2 of new price. If the harness is the older original style with the 9 pin round trailer connector, toss it. It's junk. The early harnesses used a module that was prone to burning out.

 

[stevencovert]

I'd keep the hitch

I put the Showchrome hitch & harness (with 5 wire to 4 wire adaptor from Autozone) on my RTS. If you get bumped from the rear, the hitch is probably going to be too low anyways. Put it on, use Locktite everywhere. My bolts loosened over a few months. I did find that when you have the whole left side apart putting in the harness, there is a lip under the left compartment that holds the flat four wire connector nice and tight. I just push the excess wire into the empty area under the tail lamp not not in use, and wedge the connector.

I do kinda wish I had a trailer with the socket - so I could put on a small flat carrier for a small cooler, but hey hindsight is 20/20!

You will be amazed at how well the 1330 pulls a trailer! I cannot even tell it it there, even loaded up with a hundred pounds or so. The torque curve of the 1330 spreads from 3000 way up to over 5000. We only use the trailer a few times a year, so we went with the Harbor Freight $250 version. They don't make anymore unless you find one still in stock somewhere.