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Its rear brake pad replacement time again
- Thread starter peterRT
- Start date
PMK
Active member
Always interesting to read opinions about brakes. So much concern regarding friction materials, long life, stopping ability, heat transfer cost and more.
Sadly the best braking system is so dependent upon three important items. High quality fluid, fluid that is fresh, and a properly accomplished bleed to ensure no trapped air or micro bubbles.
As a secondary best performance, knowing what friction compounds you are installing, AND the correct way to cure the friction material if needed and bed the brakes to the disc can increase brake performance while adding longer life.
Sadly the best braking system is so dependent upon three important items. High quality fluid, fluid that is fresh, and a properly accomplished bleed to ensure no trapped air or micro bubbles.
As a secondary best performance, knowing what friction compounds you are installing, AND the correct way to cure the friction material if needed and bed the brakes to the disc can increase brake performance while adding longer life.
PMK
Active member
Interesting recommendation on the Anti-Seize for lubricating brake pins.
In the past, when race bikes went to smaller and lighter brakes, they generated more heat. Additionally, they performed best when free sliding on the posts. Anti-Seize was tested. As a lubricant it worked ok. The unfortunate downside of the Anti-Seize and other performance greases with a petroleum carrier, was the small rubber dust boots were prone to swelling from contact with the petroleum. While everything was clean and well lubricated, the swelled rubber parts would bind the caliper, ultimately causing brake concerns.
In the end, using the correct non petroleum lubricant, specific for brakes, offered the high temp capability without issues to other components. Most auto stores now sell small packets or a larger bottle.
PinkRosePetal
New member
I'm going to dodge the pseudo science and give you a little practical advice and info.
As you obviously know, your rear caliper has only one piston. At a brake application the rubber seal in the caliper is slightly deformed forward as the piston moves outward under pressure. When the pressure is released that slight deformation of the seal draws the piston back into the caliper ever so slightly and so releases the pressure on that side of the brake disc and caliper. However, the pressure on the opposite side of the caliper is created by a reaction force. This reaction force slides the caliper across slightly on its support pins and so applies the second brake pad to the brake disc. A little of the reaction force is absorbed as friction on the slide pins so there's just a tad less force applied to the second brake pad.
Whilst there is retraction of the piston by its rubber seal, there is no retraction on the second pad and, consequently, it is only the release of clamping pressure and the very small (hopefully!) distortion of the brake disk which will push the sliding section away from the disc to provide the clearance necessary to prevent rubbing of the second brake pad. These clearances are necessarily very small otherwise brake pedal travel would be increased whilst the system takes up excess clearance.
So, keeping the slide pins and caliper sliding with as little friction as possible and keeping the piston side pad free to move in the caliper to release pressure from the brake disc when the piston retracts are the keys to good caliper performance and limiting the uneven wear.
I agree with PMK about not using lubricants based on petroleum where they will come into contact with rubber components, high temperature rubber grease is readily available. The external rubber components in the caliper are the slide pin gaiters and the piston water/dust seal.
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