Iso fitted a voltmeter to his F3.

[Isopedella]

So I became suspicious when I returned from a ride and plugged in my battery maintainer.

It was showing charging and was on for some time. Hours... After another ride I had recently been out on, it just charged for a few moments, then it dropped to maintenance mode. Not the F3. So why, I'm asking myself?

I removed the battery and took it to a mate who sells batteries. He bench tested it for load. It was showing 85%. I guess a new one shows 100% - dunno. Should have asked but I didn't. He suggested I leave it and come back in a few days. I did this and it tested the same. I'm thinking OK it's a 2017 and probably original, probably correct at 85%.

I took it home cleaned up the terminals with some fine sandpaper and refitted.

I had a Voltmeter spare. Cheap digital that cost next to nothing. Decided to finally fit it to the F3. Keep an eye in the charging.

I ran the wire down below the fascia around the speedo setup. It was a bit reluctant to pop off and required some gentle levering in a few places. Before I replaced it, I did apply a little oil onto the clips and things.

Here in NZ, we have low beam where some have fog lights. I wanted the voltmeter on and off with the key. I whipped the side panel off, 3 plastic plugs and 4 bolts. Bit of a hack but I pulled the plug to the lamp. Threaded the bared wires from the voltmeter through the holes in the lamp terminals and replaced the connector plug. Buttoned it all up and it works.

Bit concerned it's showing 14V though, when I started it with a full battery.

If it clears, I will go for a town ride and have a fiddle/play with the PedalBox setting I have just fitted as well.

I have a new battery on the way.

Just thought I would put this up should anybody be interested. Easy job. I guess the hack wiring is ok. Seems to work.

Took some snaps.

 

[Flamewinger]

First off I've found that with the 3 Spyders I've had, all needed a new battery within the first year as when the bike is prepped the dealer doesn't do much other than fill the battery and install it. They don't put it on a charger at all and unless the bike is going to be ridden for more than 100 miles the battery won't last as long. Either have warranty replace it or get a new one and fully charge it before installing. Trickle charge for a day or so.

I use the Docking Station that is mounted to the center of the handlebars and I got a USB/USC-c/volt meter from Amazon to replace one of the ports.

https://www.slingmods.com/can-am-sp...king-station-with-phone-charge-port?vehicle=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081HZ2M1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Isopedella]

So I went for a spin that took about an hour. Mix of city and 100k / 60mph stuff. .

Mostly saw 13.9 - 14 V on the display. Plugged her in into the charger on return saw 13.8V 0.83amps. Charged for as long as it took me to take off my ATGATT gear. Settled on maintenance at 13.6 volts 0.22 amps. Still seems high.

 

[Isopedella]

First off I've found that with the 3 Spyders I've had, all needed a new battery within the first year as when the bike is prepped the dealer doesn't do much other than fill the battery and install it. They don't put it on a charger at all and unless the bike is going to be ridden for more than 100 miles the battery won't last as long. Either have warranty replace it or get a new one and fully charge it before installing. Trickle charge for a day or so.

I use the Docking Station that is mounted to the center of the handlebars and I got a USB/USC-c/volt meter from Amazon to replace one of the ports.

https://www.slingmods.com/can-am-sp...king-station-with-phone-charge-port?vehicle=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081HZ2M1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ta for the info. Its a 2017 so maybe the battery is approaching 6 years. Dunno as I am the 3rd owner. I do have one paid for and on the way. Should be here in a few days. It will get the correct prep handling prior to fitting to the F3.

 

[Isopedella]

So what do you guys think about the 14 Volts bizzo ?

 

[Peter Aawen]

So what do you guys think about the 14 Volts bizzo ?

Your current battery (Ha, see what I did there?! ) is not in great condition and while it's still got enough oomph to start the Spyder, it's struggling to take/maintain a full charge from the alternator and it's making that work harder to compensate! That 13.8-14 volts thing is pretty standard for a good charging system that's actually charging a battery... and since you KNOW your battery is getting old and it's not actually ever getting/holding a full charge atm (as you told us in the first post of this thread ) then what you're describing isn't all that unusual or unexpected. Why are you concerned about it?? :dontknow:

After you've got the new battery; fully charged it BEFORE installation; and then finally installed it, I reckon you'll notice that the charge level goes up to 14 or so volts for a while after starting, then as the battery gets properly topped up after the load/starting drain and you continue riding (for more than about 30 mins or so) then I'd expect that unless there's other drain/significant loads on it (are you running any additional high draw accessories?) the charge voltage will likely drop back towards mid 13 volts or thereabouts as the battery gets recharged. But until you get that properly prepared & charged new battery installed, your on-board charging system will be pretty much always chasing its tail trying to keep up with the operating load and at the same time trying to charge a dying battery that can't reach full charge any more!! :lecturef_smilie:

And just as an aside, if your 'resting 12 volt battery' only holds 12 volts when you check it, then it's probably going to struggle with the electrical loads & demands your Spyder will put on it! These things basically see 12 volts as being a FLAT battery!! :shocked:

Over to you! :thumbup:

 

[Isopedella]

Yep. Cheers Pete. I was thinking its part stuffed as well.. and time to replace. Dammit.

No mods except the hi stop light from Martin.

No worries I will prep the new battery prior to fitting it. Done a few for my GL1800.

I'm concerned as I dont want to run out of puff volts far far away from home base. And over work the alternator.

The dirty rotten snotgobbeling bastards are a little clever with the required battery I reckon.

Reminds me of the John Deree tractor stuff.

I have a replacement oem spec Yausa on the way from NZ supplier no less.

At 1.5 $ over the top of other Yuasa batteries. girrr.

So will update later in the week I guess with some more encouraging volt numbers. Fingers crossed.

Cheers Iso.