If you bottom out your 20-22 Can Am watch this video

[tntnj]

https://youtu.be/nVOrlqoijao


There should be a stronger replacement by BRP.

 

[EdMat]

That's very interesting. Will have to look at a few.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I've seen things ( on this forum ) that are at Amazon .... that you can put inside the spring COILS that will stiffen the OEM springs. .... cost about $ 15.00 ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Rednaxs60]

This is a forum member who changed out the OEM rear shock spring for a 600 lb/in shock spring. Good reading.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ng-it-Adjustable&highlight=suspension+upgrade

 

[Mikey]

What is busting? Is the top of that shock mounted in plastic? :dontknow: Sometimes I'm glad I am riding old iron!!hyea:

 

[tntnj]

It sounds like a plastic bracket on the bottom of the shock, not really sure. I will have the dealer check when I get the brake switch and the read tire replaced.

 

[spyderdave]

First, neither end of the rear shock is mounted in plastic.

I believe the piece he is speaking of is a shroud/liner that prevents road crap from getting thrown forward into the suspension, tank and onto the cat. If that piece is getting damaged, there are a number of other possibiilties for bottoming out: the air ride pump sensor isn't calibrated correctly, it doesn't have a pump and should be manually charged for the increased weight of a rider, or the style of riding in general.

While the OEM coil-over leaves a lot to be desired, the only weak structural part in the rear, that I know of, is that the lower bolt holding the shock. It is soft and bends over time; Marcus @ M2 Shock covers this in his video series.

 

[2old2fly]

I too would like to know what was getting broken as the video doesn’t show this well.

I found my licence plate was getting bent from touching the trailer hitch ball when bottoming out. I don’t want to spend $900 on a different rear shock so am looking for options.

 

[Lew L]

coil spring stiffeners

I've seen things ( on this forum ) that are at Amazon .... that you can put inside the spring COILS that will stiffen the OEM springs. .... cost about $ 15.00 ...... Mike :thumbup:

I have these on the front and rear shocks. They do help for not much Denero($$$)

Lew L

 

[Hypurone]

I've seen things ( on this forum ) that are at Amazon .... that you can put inside the spring COILS that will stiffen the OEM springs. .... cost about $ 15.00 ...... Mike :thumbup:

A word of caution... DON'T do it!! The springs aren't designed for and can't handle the "side loading" and flex inducing fulcrum points that these "inserts" create and will eventually break! Can't tell you how many I have pulled out of cars with broken springs...

OP: A happy middle ground would be to just change the spring if you don't wanna drop the $ for a new shock..

 

[tntnj]

Spyderdave is correct. If you look at the video in theater mode (enlarged) you can see the plastic that is broken. It looks like the bottom of plastic shroud is damaged. It does not effect the handling. So I don't think you would need a new Elka shock for $900.

 

[2old2fly]

I tested the air pressure in mine tonight. I put a gauge on the schrader valve and started the machine. It pumps up to 38 psi with me on it. So I manually added up to 60 psi. I weigh 225. Started the bike again and bounced the bike around just sitting in my shop and it deflated down to 38 psi at little bit at a time. Not a leak but the levelling valve letting out the air.

There must be a way to adjust the linkage on the levelling valve I would think.

 

[Peter Aawen]

.....
There must be a way to adjust the linkage on the levelling valve I would think.

Only in the software! :banghead: And you'll need BUDS to do that, plus someone who knows how to reset the upper & lower limits for the ACS.

 

[2old2fly]

Checking with a dealer tomorrow and hopefully they know how these work. Thank you

 

[2old2fly]

Dropped the Spyder off at the dealer this morning and was told they could look at it. Called this afternoon and was told maybe the middle of July.

Has anyone lengthened the control rod to raise the air bag pressure? I think I may try that as I would like to use the bike while I can.

 

[2old2fly]

Today I adjusted the control sensor mount till I got 60 psi with me on the bike. I reached up inside where the mount is with a small crescent wrench and twisted the bracket down toward the rear of the Spyder till I got the pressure I needed. Took it for a ride today, 400 km, and it worked much better but the shock absorber is not strong enough as it allows too much movement in the suspension. I may need an aftermarket one especially if I ride 2up.

 

[WRCLVR]

can you show a pic of how you did that? Did you bend the bracket or just adjust it ? did you look into getting a custom rod that was adjustable instead ? Would it be like 2 rod ends and rod with jam nuts? McMaster- Carr has lots of rod ends and rods/jam nuts....

Has anyone measured the length, hole diameters, joint sizes etc

 

[2old2fly]

I did not get any pictures but if you look where the sensor is mounted it is just light metal. So, yes I twisted the mounting toward the rear of the bike and down very slightly to get the pressure I wanted in the air bag. Very simple to do and the same as lengthening the rod.

 

[Mikey]

I am beginning to feel like Peter and Blueknight with the tire threads, only on this subject... but, you can bend the arm and hope it will not break, only remember one thing - the system you're playing with is still a piece of junk and the compressor will leave you sooner or later! I would just spend a couple of bucks and make that system a manual fill; a piece of air-line and a coupling and you can set it and forget it!! Just my 2 cents!!

 

[mandytuning]

Im with mikey, thats what i love of my f3t,manual air pressure, less things to fail and adjust at your needs