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I think my 2020 RTL has the Covert-19 - latest Update

PW2013STL

PW2013STL

Active member
My 2020 RTL refused to start. Turn key on and get load repetitive clicks and then a check key message. I assumed low battery voltage so I connected battery tender to it. The next day with the tender showing a green light tried to start it, but the same thing happened. Titenen the battery bolts down and checked the battery voltage which read 12.93 volts. Tried starting it - same results.
Hooked up my trailer and using a come a long loaded the spyder up and dropped it off at a dealer in Clarksville,TN. Service writer thinks a bad battery. Hope to hear from them soon.
 
Just a basic question, did you check to be sure the emergency cutoff switch wasn't in the off position. Had that issue a couple of times myself (lol) Dale
 
Dunno where your Spyder would've been hiding PW, or not acknowledging whatever it's been up to?? So can't help with it going Covert... :dontknow:

But Battery Tenders can hide dead or failing batteries &/or dead or failing charging systems, especially if a cell in the battery has failed &/or the charge system's just not putting enough ooomph back into it! :gaah:

It's really not a great deal of help just testing the 'after charging' load, that really only shows the charge level your battery is capable of carrying, possibly only for a short while.... you should also check what the battery voltage does when you try to start the engine. A rapid drop to anything much less than about 12 volts while cranking that then stays that low, even (or especially! :rolleyes: ) if you do manage to get the engine started, generally suggests that you've got a dead battery. :banghead:

If the dealer has load tested your battery and the results show that it's bad, then you really have no choice.... it's time for a new battery! Even brand new batteries can fail, short, or just plain old give up!! That said, it's not too often that replacing it with a new battery won't fix it,cos while failures do occur, the failure rate these days is generally pretty low!! :ohyea: But it might still pay for you (not necessarily the dealer) to check the charging voltage with the engine running above idle after you've got the new battery fitted; results showing anything that's still anywhere in the 12v range could mean your charging system is the cause of the last battery failure - ESPECIALLY if you'd been doing mainly relatively short runs (less than saaay, 30 mins of running at revs over about 3,000 rpm) in the lead up to failure - and that applies even if you've been putting it on a tender whenever it's not been running!! :lecturef_smilie:

As I mentioned earlier, leaving it on a tender all the time can hide a dead or failing battery/charging system! Hope the new battery sorts yours tho PW, and that the charging system is good. But do try to fairly regularly give your Spyder/Ryker a good 'longer than 30 min' run with the revs spending most of their time up & over about 3,000 rpm every week or so - and yes, keeping the revs up over 4 or even 5,000 rpm would be even better!! :clap: Do that once a week all ryding season & you could probably retire your battery tender completely outside of any 'lay-away' or 'storage periods' of over a couple of weeks! And your Spyder, its battery, and your health/fitness will very likely thank you for keeping them in better condition that way! :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Peter Aawen said:
Dunno where your Spyder would've been hiding PW, or not acknowledging whatever it's been up to?? So can't help with it going Covert... :dontknow:

But Battery Tenders can hide dead or failing batteries &/or dead or failing charging systems, especially if a cell in the battery has failed &/or the charge system's just not putting enough ooomph back into it! :gaah:

It's really not a great deal of help just testing the 'after charging' load, that really only shows the charge level your battery is capable of carrying, possibly only for a short while.... you should also check what the battery voltage does when you try to start the engine. A rapid drop to anything much less than about 12 volts while cranking that then stays that low, even (or especially! :rolleyes: ) if you do manage to get the engine started, generally suggests that you've got a dead battery. :banghead:

If the dealer has load tested your battery and the results show that it's bad, then you really have no choice.... it's time for a new battery! Even brand new batteries can fail, short, or just plain old give up!! That said, it's not too often that replacing it with a new battery won't fix it,cos while failures do occur, the failure rate these days is generally pretty low!! :ohyea: But it might still pay for you (not necessarily the dealer) to check the charging voltage with the engine running above idle after you've got the new battery fitted; results showing anything that's still anywhere in the 12v range could mean your charging system is the cause of the last battery failure - ESPECIALLY if you'd been doing mainly relatively short runs (less than saaay, 30 mins of running at revs over about 3,000 rpm) in the lead up to failure - and that applies even if you've been putting it on a tender whenever it's not been running!! :lecturef_smilie:

As I mentioned earlier, leaving it on a tender all the time can hide a dead or failing battery/charging system! Hope the new battery sorts yours tho PW, and that the charging system is good. But do try to fairly regularly give your Spyder/Ryker a good 'longer than 30 min' run with the revs spending most of their time up & over about 3,000 rpm every week or so - and yes, keeping the revs up over 4 or even 5,000 rpm would be even better!! :clap: Do that once a week all ryding season & you could probably retire your battery tender completely outside of any 'lay-away' or 'storage periods' of over a couple of weeks! And your Spyder, its battery, and your health/fitness will very likely thank you for keeping them in better condition that way! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thanks Peter. Sadly I have not been able to ride it in the last 2 months, but have had to start it a few times to move it around in the garage. I should have kept it on a tender. Only put it on after it did not start.
I hope the dealer fully checks it out, but I will after I get it back to make sure it's charging at rpm.
 
If the message said check key, I would try the other key if you have it. Sounds like the ECM is not reading the chip in the key. I thought all the Spyder had a 2 year warranty anyway. good luck and let us know the outcome.
 
PW2013STL said:
My 2020 RTL refused to start. Turn key on and get load repetitive clicks and then a check key message. I assumed low battery voltage so I connected battery tender to it. The next day with the tender showing a green light tried to start it, but the same thing happened. Titenen the battery bolts down and checked the battery voltage which read 12.93 volts. Tried starting it - same results.
Hooked up my trailer and using a come a long loaded the spyder up and dropped it off at a dealer in Clarksville,TN. Service writer thinks a bad battery. Hope to hear from them soon.
Click to expand...

If you are using a true Battery Tender brand to maintain your battery or revive it, this may be giving you a false sense of good. On my friends Harley, he was storing it at his daughters house for a while. He used a Battery Tender brand maintainer while there. The Battery Tender indicated the battery was good, but like yours would not crank nor start.

I let him borrow one of my Battery Minder brand units. With no other changes, simply connect the Battery Minder, he gave it several days for the Battery Minder to revive and save his battery. This battery was not new, but was not old either being a little more than a year old.

The Battery Minder did revive the battery that previously refused to start or crank that Harley while maintained by a Battery Tender and even though the Battery Tender showed a good battery. He rode the bike with this battery for a while until selling the motorcycle, at which time he fairly told the buyer and gave him money towards a new battery for when it did fail at some point later on.

So likely you have a bad battery, or the dealer will charge yours and get you going. They may replace it if charged static voltage is substandard or loaded voltage drops off, both test would be after charging the battery.

All the best getting it sorted out. If you have added any aftermarket circuits, it may be prudent to ensure they have no parasitic drain running the battery down.

As for the previously suggested rpms to keep the battery voltage up, your 2020 has a high capacity alternator and can supply far more charge to the battery than it needs even at less than 2000 rpm if the charging system is operating correctly. The thought or need to rev a 1330 in the plus 4000, or even plus 5000 rpm range long enough to charge a battery or keep it charged is certainly not needed.
 
Probably is the battery. A good 12 volt motorcycle battery will charge up to around 14 volts at 100 % charge. You could have took the battery up to a NAPA or Discount Auto and they would load check it free.

Did you check the battery voltage again after the attempt to start or after it sat a while?
 
Papa103 said:
If the message said check key, I would try the other key if you have it. Sounds like the ECM is not reading the chip in the key. I thought all the Spyder had a 2 year warranty anyway. good luck and let us know the outcome.
Click to expand...

I did try both keys. Same results. Yes it's under warranty.
 
Gwolf said:
Probably is the battery. A good 12 volt motorcycle battery will charge up to around 14 volts at 100 % charge. You could have took the battery up to a NAPA or Discount Auto and they would load check it free.

Did you check the battery voltage again after the attempt to start or after it sat a while?
Click to expand...

I did not check the voltage after it showed charged. I checked it after I tried starting it after it was charged. I do own a battery tester, but did not use it. Since it's under warranty and only 4 months since purchase I would let a dealer handle it.
 
PMK said:
If you are using a true Battery Tender brand to maintain your battery or revive it, this may be giving you a false sense of good. On my friends Harley, he was storing it at his daughters house for a while. He used a Battery Tender brand maintainer while there. The Battery Tender indicated the battery was good, but like yours would not crank nor start.

I let him borrow one of my Battery Minder brand units. With no other changes, simply connect the Battery Minder, he gave it several days for the Battery Minder to revive and save his battery. This battery was not new, but was not old either being a little more than a year old.

The Battery Minder did revive the battery that previously refused to start or crank that Harley while maintained by a Battery Tender and even though the Battery Tender showed a good battery. He rode the bike with this battery for a while until selling the motorcycle, at which time he fairly told the buyer and gave him money towards a new battery for when it did fail at some point later on.

So likely you have a bad battery, or the dealer will charge yours and get you going. They may replace it if charged static voltage is substandard or loaded voltage drops off, both test would be after charging the battery.

All the best getting it sorted out. If you have added any aftermarket circuits, it may be prudent to ensure they have no parasitic drain running the battery down.

As for the previously suggested rpms to keep the battery voltage up, your 2020 has a high capacity alternator and can supply far more charge to the battery than it needs even at less than 2000 rpm if the charging system is operating correctly. The thought or need to rev a 1330 in the plus 4000, or even plus 5000 rpm range long enough to charge a battery or keep it charged is certainly not needed.
Click to expand...

It is a true Battery Tender unit. I own 3 of them and have had very good results using them in the past. Not saying that your point is not valid, only that's what I have.
The only additional thing connected to the battery is the battery tender hook up wire that the saleing dealership installed. I did install fender lights and a GPS. Both are connected to switch on wires. Fender lights to the fender power, and the GPS to the Spyders power wire for customer accessory located under the right side panel.
 
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