How do I get the Rear brake piston to retract?

[Luke]

On my 2015 F3s the rear brake puck won’t retract. I operated the park brake lever a little like the manual said but it doesn’t retract. Plenty of room in the reservoir for brake return fluid. Anybody got any advice? I tried the search but had no luck. I’m in the process of changing pads along with a tire change. Thanks in advance

 

[pegasus1300]

Rear brake cylinder pistons/pucks screw in. If you look closely at the puck surface, you will see two small holes that you can use screw them in. I don't remember which way it turns. BajaRon has a tool you can get to make it easier.

 

[Snoking1127]

I recently did mine turning it CW with heavier needle nose pliers.

 

[Peter Aawen]

LOTS of info on this if you search & spend some time reading thru any of the threads on post 2012 Spyders.

While there were differences in the pre-2013 Spyders, with the advent of the Brembo Brakes in 2013, they've all used the same method to retract their rear pistons - the fronts don't need to screw in tho, they just press. :thumbup:

 

[Luke]

On my 2015 F3s the rear brake puck won’t retract. I operated the park brake lever a little like the manual said but it doesn’t retract. Plenty of room in the reservoir for brake return fluid. Anybody got any advice? I tried the search but had no luck. I’m in the process of changing pads along with a tire change. Thanks in advance



Sorry for the double post, is there a delete button somewhere?

 

[Peter Aawen]

.....
Sorry for the double post, is there a delete button somewhere?

No, no delete button available!

We found that too many people were deleting posts & threads without consideration, and by doing so, were dragging the Forum's standing with the big search engines down to the extent that it was threatening the Forum's continued existence (not appearing on their search results = no or limited benefit to sponsors!) so as a result, you cannot delete threads or posts, and we (the Mods) prefer to hide them rather than delete them.

I'll hide these couple of posts in a day or so, once you (& others ) have had a chance to see them. :thumbup:

 

[Mikey]

You have to firmly push and turn the puck!!! I don't know where you read you have to apply the brake, but that is the last thing you ever want to do. If you don't have pads in there it will allow the pistons to overextend the housing, then you got a world of work to get them back in. You have to get that caliper off the bracket and take a pair of needle nose pliers in the hole and push and turn, it may take a few turns to get them back in. Good luck

 

[JKMSPYDER]

Be sure and turn the puck clockwise while pushing in. Ron’s special tool helps a lot.

 

[BajaRon]

On my 2015 F3s the rear brake puck won’t retract. I operated the park brake lever a little like the manual said but it doesn’t retract. Plenty of room in the reservoir for brake return fluid. Anybody got any advice? I tried the search but had no luck. I’m in the process of changing pads along with a tire change. Thanks in advance



Sorry for the double post, is there a delete button somewhere?

You say 'Won't retract' Does that mean it won't turn at all? Or that it just spins and spins but doesn't move inward?

 

[JayBros]

This is an absolutely shameless plug because the gentleman who sells the best tool for retracting the piston just wanted to know the exact description of the problem. If you're going to do your own Spyder brake work, turn in your shade tree license and pop for the tool in the picture. It's less than the price of a tank of gas.

 

[RangerRick]

I do not see this (Ron's Special tool) listed as others have said.

 

[Luke]

Success! Thanks to all who responded. I ended up making a fixture by drilling a couple holes in a 7/8” wrench size nut and brazing pins into them. Then I made a cup that fit on a 'c-clamp' and brazed that onto the nut. The 'c-clamp' then goes on the caliper, and I used a wrench to turn it with some pressure on it, and it started to turn just fine. I didn’t have to take the caliper to the vice, so I don’t have to bleed the brakes, but I’m going to change brake fluid anyway. Even with stout needle nosed pliers I couldn’t turn it and had trouble getting enough pressure and leverage to turn it. I’m a happy camper now! Thanks again!

 

[JayBros]

I do not see this (Ron's Special tool) listed as others have said.

Go to the SL Home page, scroll about half way down the page and click on BajaRon's ad and it will bring up his Home page. Again scroll about half way doen the page to EBC Brakes, scroll just past EBC Fully Sintered Brake pads and you will see Rear Caliper Piston Retraction Tool.

 

[RangerRick]

Thanks much I see it now. :2thumbs:

 

[Mikey]

It sounds like you already have a GOOD brake tool. Time tested!!!:2thumbs: Good job!!!

 

[Luke]

Thanks, I also looked for Ron’s brake tool but didn’t find it either or I would have bought one, it looks good and I’m a tool junkie.

 

[Mikey]

Thanks, I also looked for Ron’s brake tool but didn’t find it either or I would have bought one, it looks good and I’m a tool junkie.

Harbor Freight should be your friend, if you have one!!:2thumbs: just saying!!

 

[EdMat]

Harbor Freight should be your friend, if you have one!!:2thumbs: just saying!!

The ones that they stock do not fit according to several posts on here.

 

[honsfun]

How about using a circlip pliers?

 

[Peter Aawen]

How about using a circlip pliers?

If you've operated the brakes with the pads removed/caliper off the disc, you'll need to push IN quite hard on the piston/brake cylinder retraction tool to get the piston to wind back in, especially if it's wound off the end of the screw!! :shocked:

Sooo, given that circlip pliers made for 'open/close' type actions rather than screw/twist type actions, I'm not all that sure that there's too many circlip pliers that'd stand up to the twisting forces required to both push IN and TURN at the same time! In fact, I'm not all that sure there's too many normal needle-nosed pliers that'll stand up to the stresses involved of screwing one of those pistons back in, especially if it's necessary to do that at the same time as trying to pick up the end of the screw adjuster cos it's been wound right off/operated with no pads I've seen a few 'formerly useful' needle nosed pliers that were converted to so much (or little! ) scrap metal by trying to do that; and that's without the added 'pick up the adjuster' stresses!! :banghead:

Still, you might be lucky.... Or you might just want a good excuse to get a new set of (stronger??) circlip pliers?! :thumbup: