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How do I clear the limp home mode - brakes..?

Isopedella

Well-known member
Kia ora from New Zealand.

So my first foray into my 2017 F3 has ended with a himmmmm.
I picked up my new to me Spyder. After reading up on stuff I thought I would investigate if it had the "red rust" . And yes it did. So I pulled the front pulley, cleaned it up and put it back together. I ran it with its ass in the air and the front wheels chocked to ensure the belt was aligned and set to tension to spec.

But!

Its now showing check engine light. Bakes.
The parking brake wont shift.
Limp home mode.

How do I clear these messages?

pulley 12240.jpg

And..... Burning question. Should there be anything on the shaft below the pulley? It was just the shaft when I removed the pulley.

pulley 2 20220314_102317.jpg
 
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The reason it's showing a limp mode is because you ran it with the rear wheel spinning and the front wheels chocked. That caused the, I believe it's the Vehicle Stability System, to throw the code. If you take it out and run it with all three wheels turning that should please whatever computer system did not like what you were doing by chocking the front wheels. If it goes out of limp mode you should be OK, because the code will be inactive but still resident in the computer system(s). To reset the code, i.e., remove it from the systems, you must use the B.U.D.S. diagnostic system.
 
For your burning question, if you had the manual transmission version your foot shifter would have been connected there.
 
Looks like that pulley may be very hard to remove.


Crikey it looks ugly I agree. That was after several applications over the morning of spraying 3 in one lubricant into the splines. Talk about a rust river.

It came off surprising easy with a puller. I was very gentle. Load it up and tap aroung the clock with a brass hammer. Then repeat. After the 4th time I was able to grab it with my hands and pull it off completely. I cleaned it up with some Kerosene and a toothbrush. And was delighted to see flats, sharp corners Woohoo.

So the parking brake is in fact working and I will take it out and see it those alerts clear. The limp mode seems to be gone, with the check engine light showing.

I will take it for a spin today ( 6 am here now) and see what is remaining. Im booked next week for an alignment at the dealer next week so they will be able to clear the codes out.


Thanks for helping with the reply's
 
Im going to seek out the battery, I confess I have no idea where it is yet but im sure its there somewhere. haha . Surfing around its either in the front helmet boot or under the pillion seat. The previous owner has posted the supplied operators guide to me but its not here yet. A bloke suggested it may help clearing the codes if I disconnect it for a while. Wont hurt to clean and refit the terminals anyway I guess. I also want to fit a pigtail for a maintainer while there. I can pull a Carby apart but im lacking in IT stuff so I guess plenty of Numb-nut questions to come. Going to look for a Workshop manual later on. A written one.
 
Im going to seek out the battery, I confess I have no idea where it is yet but im sure its there somewhere. haha . Surfing around its either in the front helmet boot or under the pillion seat. The previous owner has posted the supplied operators guide to me but its not here yet. A bloke suggested it may help clearing the codes if I disconnect it for a while. Wont hurt to clean and refit the terminals anyway I guess. I also want to fit a pigtail for a maintainer while there. I can pull a Carby apart but im lacking in IT stuff so I guess plenty of Numb-nut questions to come. Going to look for a Workshop manual later on. A written one.

:agree: ... with " the Bloke " .... I have made that suggestion many, many times .....While your dis-connected get TWO - STAR washers and put them on the terminals before you tighten them .... they will never LOOSEN by themselves .... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Going to look for a Workshop manual later on. A written one.

Don’t get you heart too set on a written workshop manual, Iso. You may fluke one, but they were getting scarce when I sourced one for my ‘16 F3. You will struggle at first with an electronic one, but if you follow the setup instructions to the letter it isn’t so bad.;):thumbup:

Also, when you take the push pins out of the frunk bin, there is no need to put them back in. It makes access to fuse box and battery very easy, and it has no detriments. Lamonster garage leave the pins out of theirs and suggests customers do the same.

Pete.
 
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