How can I get to the fog lights to replace them with HIDs?

[GuitarPlayer]

I'd like to replace the fog lights in my 2013 RT-Limited with HIDs. I have the kit from XenenDepot but I'm a little stumped as to what I need to remove to get at the fog lights.

Can anyone here tell me what tupperware I need to remove to get at the fog lights?

Thanks,

Tony

 

[MarkLawson]

On my 2010, I removed the 3 plastic rivets along the top holding the piece of Tupperware the fog lights are on and any other screws that may be holding them on in the rear-most section of the part. There is also a tab with a clip that you must feel for from the top. I missed these tabs and snapped them off entirely, but see no downside to that. I was then able to pry open the body panel from the top enough to reach in to the back of the fog light assembly and pop the cover off. You'll need to be patient, but it can be done. I used the supplied relays and made fused runs to the battery for each. You'll need to drill a 1" diameter hole in the cover you popped of to allow their wiring harness to get in. Also, make sure you confirm the polarity of the wiring so you don't hook it up backwards. The instruction talk about this. D

Don't get in a rush and you can do it.

 

[jcthorne]

While its not required, removal of the frunk is only 6 bolts and makes accessing, mounting and wiring the HID fog lights very easy.

 

[GuitarPlayer]

Thanks for all the replies. I think I've got a plan on how to do this. Anyone have any suggests on where to mount the ballasts?

Tony

 

[jcthorne]

Thanks for all the replies. I think I've got a plan on how to do this. Anyone have any suggests on where to mount the ballasts?

Tony

For the fog lights, they fit inside the housing. No need to cut holes in the cover.

 

[Bob Denman]

We're going to need to see some pics of the installation process, and the results! :thumbup:

Good Luck!

 

[bluestratos]

I removed the frunk (it is much easier to unsnap the plastic water covers, trying to reach up in there can result in a broken tab when you fell around blindly) then installed the HIDS (you will need to drill a large hole for the grommets) and mounted the ballasts on the back side of the frank plastic with HD Velcro and installed the relays, one on each side, in the cavities created between the fog light and outer tupper ware. I made quick disconnects for the hot wires and ran them off of the battery. With this set up you only have to un plug and remove the frunk when you need to with out cutting wires. Since I have an accessory fuse panel I actually picked up the battery power from the hot fuse protected line I designed into the set up there by removing the in line fuses that came with the set.

 

[Magdave]

Remove the one bolt that will allow you to open up the rear part of the fog light area. Also pop the rivets off.

 

[jcthorne]

I removed the frunk (it is much easier to unsnap the plastic water covers, trying to reach up in there can result in a broken tab when you fell around blindly) then installed the HIDS (you will need to drill a large hole for the grommets) and mounted the ballasts on the back side of the frank plastic with HD Velcro and installed the relays, one on each side, in the cavities created between the fog light and outer tupper ware. I made quick disconnects for the hot wires and ran them off of the battery. With this set up you only have to un plug and remove the frunk when you need to with out cutting wires. Since I have an accessory fuse panel I actually picked up the battery power from the hot fuse protected line I designed into the set up there by removing the in line fuses that came with the set.

There is no need to drill a hole in the cover for the grommet. The ballast will fit inside the fog light housing and the cover goes back on. The headlights are not as easy.

Also there is no need for a relay in this application. The HID use LESS power than the factory bulbs so there is less current on the factory wiring than the OEM setup.

 

[bluestratos]

I looked at that but decide to follow the instructions, not sure how much heat the ballast can take. Same for the relays, when the light first strikes up it draws a lot of power then settles back down. Not wanting to test Murphy I left the relays in the system.