Hex Bolts Too Tight

[hschuchman]

I am adding a RAM base mount to the center area of my RT handlebar. In order for me to do this I will need to remove only one of the four hex bolts and then use the new bolt for the RAM mount to replace it. I have attempted to take off the bottom left bolt but the bolt is screwed in so tight that my ratchet would click, due to it was more pressure then it can handle, and then eventually the hex bolt became stripped in the center. I tempted this with the other three bolts, but they are also too tight, they are not stripped. I also used WD-40...no luck. Any suggestions??

 

[Bob Denman]

Can you take a soldering pencil, and put some heat directly on the heads of those bolts?

 

[Marker]

Can you take a soldering pencil, and put some heat directly on the heads of those bolts?

I agree with Bob
The dealer's technician told me that BRP switched to using Blue thread locker from Yellow thread locker and have used alot of blue locker.
All the dealers are complaining about stripped bolts. The dealers technician told me to apply heat to the center of the bolt and that will loosen the thread locker to remove the bolts without damaging the heads of the bolt.

 

[blacklightning]

I was at the Fontana Village in fall of 2015 for the spyder rally and I had the same issue. Fortunately, William in the "Old Fart Cart" was there to do it for me. There is a load of lock tight on those bolts, and they are very hard to get off. He was able to move it 1/2 turn, them back 1/4 turn. He continued that until he was able to get it off. If I had been there alone, I probably would have messed up the threads or worse.
I do think that, if you have it, heat might be the way to go also. Good luck.

 

[Chupaca]

Here's the thing....

The loctite crystalizes and even when you break it loose it bunchs up as you back it out. The back and forth works well but to get started I have found nothing better that an impact driver. I have both the air power and hammer driven. If you own a modern machine and do your own work this is one tool worth it's weight. The heat will work on some of the loctite by basically melting it a bit but not all. some are stuck from the different materials what with steel bolts and aluminum block that expand and contract differently with heat. I find they are using way to much loctite and on way to many places...jmo :thumbup:

 

[finless]

Blue should not be stripping bolts. Blue is used to allow for easy removal. RED on the other hand is made to be almost permanent and requires heat to loosen.

Bob

 

[4 MARIE]

First, make absolutely sure that you have the correct size hex driver in your ratchet.
use an appropriate size ratchet, 1/4 or 3/8 drive probably aren't going to cut it.
Heat, may change adhesion property of the locktite, but enough of it will certainly expand the bolt.

heat expands , cold contracts, right? So heat on the female side (NUT) of that fastener will loosen that fastener's grip.
while the mechanic in me thinks maybe freezing (shrinking) the bolt with some dry ice or a nice stream of Freon or other cold gas, would make the bolt/nut relationship looser.

As for your "stripper" you will need an appropriate size extractor. There are some really good ones out there now. Except where that bolt is located, you could maybe just turn that bolt into a slot head, and then go after it. Good luck in any case. If you do a lot of your own wrenching, this is probably not your first rodeo. It wouldn't be mine.

 

[Bob Denman]

First, make absolutely sure that you have the correct size hex driver in your ratchet.
use an appropriate size ratchet, 1/4 or 3/8 drive probably aren't going to cut it.
Heat, may change adhesion property of the locktite, but enough of it will certainly expand the bolt.

heat expands , cold contracts, right? So heat on the female side (NUT) of that fastener will loosen that fastener's grip.
while the mechanic in me thinks maybe freezing (shrinking) the bolt with some dry ice or a nice stream of Freon or other cold gas, would make the bolt/nut relationship looser.

:agree: This is why I suggested some heat: expand the bolt a little bit, and then let it cool (and contract...) This often is JUST enough, to rattle things loose... :thumbup:
I'd be hesitant to use extreme cold: can't that make the metal brittle? :dontknow:

 

[ris]

Stripped bolt head

Get the correct size Allen wrench. It should be 7mm. Tack weld it into the bolt. Let cool. Use a 7mm wrench on the Allen wrench and the bolt will turn right out.

 

[SPYD3R]

AGREE

AGREE with everyone above.....
BRP must have purchased a train load of LOK-TITE YELLOW.....
i resently built rear-peg extensions for a friend of mine that needed them for his F3, so that his young grandson could ride comfortably with him... when trying to remove one of the bolts on my F3, i BENT an allan wrench.... wha'sup'wit'dat....????? BRP go easy on the yellow mud, will ya.... I DON'T EVEN WANT TO MENTION REMOVING THE BOLTS HOLDING THE BRAKE CALIPERS ON THE F3.... OMG...! ! !

i hope you were able to remove that 1 bolt to mount your phone holder....
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[MercerLake]

Locked Bolts!

I would suggest heating the bolt head in this case as it likely does not have nuts that are accessible. Use an Allen wrench of the proper size inserted into the Hex head and then apply heat from a propane torch to the Allen wrench, let it cool then use a new Allen wrench to remove the bolt. The Allen that was heated will be soft from being annealed and is no longer useable. Lock-Tite, too much of a good thing or the wrong grade. Good luck!

 

[merlot]

you may need to take the handlebars off to get to the boss under

what i would do
buy the best 7mm allen tool you can find
remove the other 3 then drill the head off the stripped one
take the boss to machine shop to extract stud

you could try smacking the next size up allen tool into head of bolt but doubt that will work

good luck with it