Heads Up for RT622 owners

[cptjam]

Any bearing shop or most industrial supply house:

 

[cptjam]

These work great! Joe

 

[stillnjeve]

What puller did you use for getting the race out? I can't see how anything would grip the races. Cheers from Australia.

 

[Peter Aawen]

What puller did you use for getting the race out? I can't see how anything would grip the races. Cheers from Australia.

ldpost: Cptjam is still around stillnjeve, so he might see this & answer; but this thread is from back in 2016, so it might be a good idea to send a PM...

It ALWAYS pays to check at least the date on the opening post in a thread, AND the last few posts in the thread before posting a new question! :lecturef_smilie:

That's not saying you shouldn't bring up any old threads, if it's adding to the knowledge base, it's always better to keep it in one place rather than creating yet another thread and making it harder for EVERYONE/ANYONE to find the complete range of info; just don't be in a hurry for responses. :thumbup:

 

[PMK]

What puller did you use for getting the race out? I can't see how anything would grip the races. Cheers from Australia.

The bearing cups on the RT622 hubs were not intended to be removed by design. There is no edge or lip of the bearing exposed that allows driving out the bearing cups.

I replaced bearings on a local riders RT622 years ago. For that task, it required that I create the means to get to the bearing cup. For that, with the hub off and degreased, I used a straight die grinder, with a carbide rotary file and by hand carefully cut two notches per bearing cup area in each hub casting. This semi circular notch allowed me to drive out the old bearing cups. With the cups removed, again by hand with the same tools, I made each notch cut, look pretty, uniform and as if made at oem.

I did not use the welding technique, and will not if ever replacing bearings on our RT622, but many say this works. You use a stick welder or MIG welder and run a simple bead around the bearing cups wear surface. Word is, as the weld cools, the bearing cup shrinks and will drop out. Never tried this, but have read it works.

Overall though, a poor design unless you just replace the hubs as Can Am expects. Notching the hub is easier and less risky, but does require proper tools. You might get it done with a Dremel, but I doubt it and it would take a long time. The die grinder and carbide cutter, for all 4 areas took maybe 30 minutes from start to tools put away.

 

[PW2013STL]

I have a 3 arm puller that expands outward and it treads onto my 5# slide hammer. By tightening the puller as tight as I can between the hub and race edge with a few good hits with the slide hammer I was able to move the race enough to get the puller arms behind the race. From there its just a matter of working the slide hammer to finish pulling the race out.
You might scratch the hub, but the new race will cover those, and will not effect the bearings.

 

[Poasttown]

The bearing cups on the RT622 hubs were not intended to be removed by design. There is no edge or lip of the bearing exposed that allows driving out the bearing cups.

I replaced bearings on a local riders RT622 years ago. For that task, it required that I create the means to get to the bearing cup. For that, with the hub off and degreased, I used a straight die grinder, with a carbide rotary file and by hand carefully cut two notches per bearing cup area in each hub casting. This semi circular notch allowed me to drive out the old bearing cups. With the cups removed, again by hand with the same tools, I made each notch cut, look pretty, uniform and as if made at oem.

I did not use the welding technique, and will not if ever replacing bearings on our RT622, but many say this works. You use a stick welder or MIG welder and run a simple bead around the bearing cups wear surface. Word is, as the weld cools, the bearing cup shrinks and will drop out. Never tried this, but have read it works.

Overall though, a poor design unless you just replace the hubs as Can Am expects. Notching the hub is easier and less risky, but does require proper tools. You might get it done with a Dremel, but I doubt it and it would take a long time. The die grinder and carbide cutter, for all 4 areas took maybe 30 minutes from start to tools put away.

My question relates to the Freedom trailer hub/bearings which may be the same as the 622. My bearing cover also has no lip for easy removal, it is flush with the hub plate. Is there an easy way to remove this cover without totally damaging the part? I don’t want to try to pry it off if for some reason the cap is threaded.

And are you saying the entire hub assembly is pressed onto the axle and requires a puller to remove?

Thanks Poasttown, 2019 F3L, 2022 Freedom Trailer

 

[PMK]

My question relates to the Freedom trailer hub/bearings which may be the same as the 622. My bearing cover also has no lip for easy removal, it is flush with the hub plate. Is there an easy way to remove this cover without totally damaging the part? I don’t want to try to pry it off if for some reason the cap is threaded.

And are you saying the entire hub assembly is pressed onto the axle and requires a puller to remove?

Thanks Poasttown, 2019 F3L, 2022 Freedom Trailer

Unsure if the Freedom trailer and later year RT622 hubs are the same.
The hubs I mentioned, there was no exposed surface to grab or tap against, until I cut the notch.

As for this cover you mention, probably best if you post photos.

 

[Poasttown]

I am now under the impression that these wheel bearing are sealed and “maintenance free”. I will continue to include this in my regular inspection and if I see an issue I will go from there. The information presented above is and will be helpful.

Thanks
Poasttown 2019 F3L