• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Hard nut to crack

Anyone know how to get inside the upper-pod of the RS-S carefully? Thought about putting small rare-earth-magnet speakers where the "vents" are at. Seems a logical place, no?
 
It's been quite a while, I believe there were tooth latches you had to press into around that seem and lift up on the upper half which use to be called the cougar head...never hear that anymore. Get the Spyder maintenance manual on CD from Midwest manuals or Green manuals.
 
It's been quite a while, I believe there were tooth latches you had to press into around that seem and lift up on the upper half which use to be called the cougar head...never hear that anymore. Get the Spyder maintenance manual on CD from Midwest manuals or Green manuals.

Cougar head went along the wayside when the members started using the "F" word for the trunk. I can't even bring myself to say it.
 
Oh goodness, what a pain! Dropping the frunk? Maybe I should get used to that as a lot of modifications require it. Anyone got a pic of the inside of the "cougar head"? I'm tempted to say something about cougar-head but.. this forum sure turned South.
 
Cluster removal

Use a small finish nail to release the tabs on the top of the cluster. You'll see two little holes up on top of the " visor". Press down in one of the holes with the nail and start to pull the cluster out, top first. It should start to come out, then release the other one. The cluster will come out from the top.
The dash vents are a good spot to mount your speakers. That's how I did mine two or three years ago.
Once the cluster is out, you'll have easy access to the vent area.
 

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He said Cougar Head

It's been quite a while, I believe there were tooth latches you had to press into around that seem and lift up on the upper half which use to be called the cougar head...never hear that anymore. Get the Spyder maintenance manual on CD from Midwest manuals or Green manuals.
:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:
 
It's been quite a while, I believe there were tooth latches you had to press into around that seem and lift up on the upper half which use to be called the cougar head...never hear that anymore. Get the Spyder maintenance manual on CD from Midwest manuals or Green manuals.

no no

look down from where the safety card is stored you will see 2 slits in the plastic piece, insert a very small thin screw driver down those slits and it will release the tabs holding the gauge.
 
Hey a Trunk in the Front is a Frunk and I don't care who you are or what you think about the term! It applies. :lecturef_smilie:

Question: Is it better to have a bluetooth headset in your helmet (with speakers and a mic) that connect to your smart phone to stream music from and be able to make and receive calls on, than to have speakers on the surface of your Spyder and a radio stashed somewhere in your Frunk (at a guess) that you can barely hear over the wind and is muffled by your helmet anyways and you can't make nor receive calls with? I'm personally leaning towards a ChatterBox unit for my helmet... :dontknow:

- Michael
 
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