GS/ RSS Buying Advice

[Syd7890]

Hi Everyone!
I’m new to the form, and excited to get some insight and advice from you guys, to help guide me in my search for a used Spyder. I’m looking for any of the GS/ RS(S) models from 2008-2014...anything beyond that seems to be out of my budget range.
I’ve done some reading and research on this site and others to try to better educate myself, before buying anything. I have a few questions that I would appreciate your help with.
My first and biggest question is about the 2014 model year. From what I understand, they redid the wiring harness or something like that, to help fix some of the battery related problems; and they also redirected the exhaust to mitigate some of the heat issues on the right foot. My question is, how successful were the aforementioned fixes on the 2014 models? Is there so much of an improvement that it’s worth paying a little extra to get a 2014, or are there still issues there too?
I’m also curious if either the manual or if the automatic transmission, is more reliable than the other?
Lastly, I read that the 2013’s seemed to have the most heat problems. Is this true, and is this model year generally considered the least reliable...is there a model year that’s considered the most reliable?
Hopefully I haven’t crammed too many questions into one post. I’m looking forward to your replies and insights. Please feel free to also direct me to any previous posts that you think would be helpful to me.

Cheers!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi Everyone!
I’m new to the form, and excited to get some insight and advice from you guys, to help guide me in my search for a used Spyder. I’m looking for any of the GS/ RS(S) models from 2008-2014...anything beyond that seems to be out of my budget range.
I’ve done some reading and research on this site and others to try to better educate myself, before buying anything. I have a few questions that I would appreciate your help with.
My first and biggest question is about the 2014 model year. From what I understand, they redid the wiring harness or something like that, to help fix some of the battery related problems; and they also redirected the exhaust to mitigate some of the heat issues on the right foot. My question is, how successful were the aforementioned fixes on the 2014 models? Is there so much of an improvement that it’s worth paying a little extra to get a 2014, or are there still issues there too?
I’m also curious if either the manual or if the automatic transmission, is more reliable than the other?
Lastly, I read that the 2013’s seemed to have the most heat problems. Is this true, and is this model year generally considered the least reliable...is there a model year that’s considered the most reliable?
Hopefully I haven’t crammed too many questions into one post. I’m looking forward to your replies and insights. Please feel free to also direct me to any previous posts that you think would be helpful to me.

Cheers!

:welcome: .... what they did in 14 ( the new 1330 engine which is great ) was a BRP engineer had nothing better to do , so He re-engineered the DESS system ..... well HE BROKE it :gaah: .... it was working fine from 08 to 13 but you how it goes some folks just can't leave well enough alone ..... It then took 3 yrs to change it back to what it was UN-BROKEN :clap:.... The DESS module is easy to re-place ( #135.00 ) if you can take off the Frunk ( front trunk ) ..... The manual and Semi-auto are the same transmission , the semi-auto has a few extra pieces to activate the shifting via a thumb switch.... they are both reliable ( I wouldn't own a Spyder without the semi-auto ) ... The Heat issues were caused by BRP not having enough 1330 engines for the NEW Frame of the RT model( 2013 ) .... the V-twin ran Hotter in that frame and bodywork .... BRP did design SCOOPS that could be added to the new body and mostly fixed the heat issues. .... hope this helps ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[glennm]

Yes welcome to a great forum.
BRP continued with the V twin in some models ST & RS until I think 2016 over there. RTs were the triple from 2014.
Mine is the 2014 ST-S V twin and I intentionally sought out the 2014+ or a 2013 with the heat mitigation works done.
I rode many different models before I found the Goldilocks factor - "just right" so ride as many as you can as the various models have different riding/seating positions.
Others will chime in with their thoughts and there are many knowledgeable people on here inc. Mike (above).
Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[blacklightning]

I am not certain about some of the earlier models, but from what I know, I would probably go with a 2014 RSS due to the fact that in 2013 they changed the handlebar setup, which can be switched out for either ST or even RT bars for a more upright position. Also, they did cruise control and 15" wheels in 2013. The 2013 did have more heating issues than the 2014, so that is my reasoning for a 2014 over a 2013. But I actually owned a 2012 RSS. they got upgraded suspension over the previous years, but still had 14" front rims, no cruise control, and different handlebar set up. The hp changed from 107 to 100 in 2013. 2008-2012 hp was 107 with 77 tq. 2013 and up on the V-Twin had 100 hp and 80 tq. I loved my 2012, but it did get a little hot, and the lack of cruise control were the biggest issues for me.

 

[Syd7890]

Thanks to those of you who have already given replies...I really appreciate it! I’m definitely going to keep my eyes open for a 2014. Just curious in case I don’t have any luck doing so, how effective are the aftermarket parts that have tried to address the heat issue on the 2008-2012?

 

[Freddy]

Unlike some others, I wouldn't have a semi auto for reliability reasons, some of which are outlined here:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ng-solenoid-valve-specs&p=1566065#post1566065

 

[AVBIZ]

Here’s a vote for the early V-Twins. I bought mine as an experiment to see if I like the trike concept for $5700- well below even the cost of a Ryker 600. The V-Twin sounds awesome with the stock exhaust and over 5k rpm you better hang on tight because its going to rock your world. My 08 GS seems well built; like they spent some time making sure their launch vehicle was solid. The fact that the RS solid until 2016 tells you it was well thought of. Find an example that has been maintained and you will be happy.

 

[PistonBlown]

As you asked about the GS/RS model. There were actually two versions of that model.

2008 to 2012 This was the original version. The engine loves revs and is very quick, as a consequence is quite thirsty on fuel. Considering this was the first model Can-am produced they are very reliable. There are some minor niggles e.g. the cracking struts on the rear fenders etc but pretty good over all. Exhaust and cat where a single unit so if you fitted an after market exhaust the cat would be gone. Battery was at the rear of the Spyder.

2013 to 2016. This was the revamp and ties in with the release of the ST which shared the same underpinnings. Visually, other than the handlebars, it looked pretty much the same as the previous version. The engine was revised to move the power lower in the revs, improved fuel efficiency but also knocked off 6hp and 0.1 second off the 0-60 time (in case thats important). The exhaust and cat were separate, with the cat now mounted under the engine. Unfortunately the engine retune and cat initially caused some heat issues, Can-am issued update to re-tune that did help with the heat and from 2014 onwards there were additional vents in the bodywork (some 2013 owners also fitted them). The front suspension geometry was changed e.g. shocks mount a little higher and the brakes were upgraded to Brembo (though the old brakes were excellent). As previously mentioned there was a new security system DESS which was a bit problematic but hopefully any models available now have been sorted. Battery was repositioned.

Both have V-twin 998cc engines though the model numbers are different.

With the batteries the main problem is that you need to make sure the wires are attached to the terminals tightly, if not then they have a habit of vibrating loose. The batteries are also the modern type which means no real need for maintenance but when they fail they fail. If you use a trickle charger then you need to use the right type for this sort of battery.

Hot right foot was a common complaint for the early GS/RS's - I've no idea if it also affected the later models. On my 2011 I fitted SpyderPops 'Missing heat shield' and never had a problem - though to be honest I wear proper motorcycle boots and so even before fitting it had only noticed a little warmth in heavy traffic on a hot day.

Oh and I have a 2011 RS which I've had since new.

 

[Syd7890]

Interesting about the different versions. So with the cat being built into the original exhaust, would installing an aftermarket exhaust that doesn’t incorporate a cat, help reduce the heat problem...has anyone tried this, with a noticeable heat reduction?

How much of an improvement in fuel economy was attained by retuning the engine for the second generation bikes?

 

[PistonBlown]

Interesting about the different versions. So with the cat being built into the original exhaust, would installing an aftermarket exhaust that doesn’t incorporate a cat, help reduce the heat problem...has anyone tried this, with a noticeable heat reduction?

How much of an improvement in fuel economy was attained by retuning the engine for the second generation bikes?

My 2011 still has the original exhaust/cat, if you compare it with a pic of a 2013 onwards you'll see my exhaust is a lot larger but this does also mean the cat is out in the breeze rather than under the rear of the engine as per the later models. A lot of local riders did fit after market exhausts but it was always for cosmetic/sound reasons, never heard anyone doing it to deliberately remove the cat. In my case I've never noticed any heat issues and certainly I've had motorbikes that have run hotter. As mentioned I have fitted Spyderpops heat shield but otherwise not made any changes. There was a cat bypass available for the 2013+ models. I'm not even sure after Can-am released the retune how much of an issue the heat was with the 2013's.

I don't think there were any official figures of the fuel economy figure differences, I just know when on group rides us on the older models are the ones looking for gas stations first. If I had to guess I'd say perhaps a 10% difference. Having said that riding style and roads makes a big difference - I'd ride enthusiastically and tend to be on twisty back roads so I get through it quicker than most I do love the high rev nature of the early engines.


* If your wondering about the fence in the background, its in support of breast cancer research, hence the donations box.

 

[otter28169]

Interesting about the different versions. So with the cat being built into the original exhaust, would installing an aftermarket exhaust that doesn’t incorporate a cat, help reduce the heat problem...has anyone tried this, with a noticeable heat reduction?

How much of an improvement in fuel economy was attained by retuning the engine for the second generation bikes?

The difference in the fuel mileage of the different tunings is negligible. I have a 2012 RS-S and it is my favorite bike. Whether I am cruising around or winding it out as far as it will go i get ~30mpg. The only time my mileage changes is when I am forced to ride on the interstate for any length of time and I get almost 40mpg when rolling along on the highway. I do wish that it had cruise for those times, and I replaced the stock rear fender with the sport fender years ago (BRP gave me the cost of the oem part in credit).
I have ridden every other model of spyder and none of them are as fun as the RS. I love the F3, but I do not get the same rush from it. No matter what anybody says, there is minimal if any difference in performance between the RS and the F3 (I know as my father and I are constantly lining them up). The 2014 ST-S (with bags) was a great machine for commuting to work, but no lacked the same fun factor. My Ryker rally is a fun machine, especially after you learn how to do low-speed donuts with it. I love riding the dirt roads with it. The off-road suspension and upgraded sway bar are a great combination for the awful roads in upstate NY. It will stay with the other machines to ~50mph but was not built for that type of playing.
I have never noticed a heat issue with my RS-S, and as a matter of fact I thought the F3 was worse in that respect. The foot position on the RS-S can be an issue if you are 5'10" or taller, or if you happen to be a bit larger. I am 6' tall and about 270lbs, to combat the leg fatigue I added web boards to my RS-S. Since that addition I have regularly done 300+ mile days, and rode the bike from Syracuse, NY to Knoxville, TN in one 13 hour trip.
That being said, I still have my RS-S and it has almost 70K on it. At this point I have no plans of ever getting rid of it. The newer models are great in their own right, but they are not the same.

Just sayin'............

 

[Syd7890]

Thanks again everyone, for all your replies...your shared experiences and insights have really been appreciated.
I recently went and got my M1, and I’m signed up for a Can Am riding course in May. In the meantime, I’m keeping my eyes open for something that falls into the suggestions that you’ve all made.
If there are any ‘red flags’ that I should watch out for when buying a used Spyder, feel free to share.

Cheers!