GS belt replacement

[SpyderSue]

I posted on the F3 page, because as soon as I ordered my F3T, my Spyder blew her belt. Literally. :shemademe_smilie:

Any suggestions and/or hints about the replacing the drive belt? Tips that will save me some brain cells? I've got a wrench friend who will help me, but he's not familiar with the Spyders.

Thanks in advance!

Whoops! 2009 GS SE5

 

[Chupaca]

Let's see....

Seeing that it is a new belt you don't gain anything with the saving the adjustments. So remove the side (L) panel and the rear (L) panel and lower air dam to have access to the front sprocket. Remove the belt guards and rear fender strut (L). You may be able to loosen the rear wheel adjusters enough to slide the belt off the rear sprocket. Then wiggle and waggle the belt out from the front area watching for any electical connections in the area. That is one stiff belt and not very giving. reverse the process and align and adjust the belt and your good to go...:thumbup:

 

[SpyderSue]

Seeing that it is a new belt you don't gain anything with the saving the adjustments. So remove the side (L) panel and the rear (L) panel and lower air dam to have access to the front sprocket. Remove the belt guards and rear fender strut (L). You may be able to loosen the rear wheel adjusters enough to slide the belt off the rear sprocket. Then wiggle and waggle the belt out from the front area watching for any electical connections in the area. That is one stiff belt and not very giving. reverse the process and align and adjust the belt and your good to go...:thumbup:

Thank-you again Chewy! I think I owe you a beer :cheers:

 

[r1100rider]

Seeing that it is a new belt you don't gain anything with the saving the adjustments. So remove the side (L) panel and the rear (L) panel and lower air dam to have access to the front sprocket. Remove the belt guards and rear fender strut (L). You may be able to loosen the rear wheel adjusters enough to slide the belt off the rear sprocket. Then wiggle and waggle the belt out from the front area watching for any electical connections in the area. That is one stiff belt and not very giving. reverse the process and align and adjust the belt and your good to go...:thumbup:

I disagree use the Lamont method of jacking up and removing the shock bolt this way you won't lose the alignment settings run a while for the belt to stretch in and check the belt tension

 

[SpyderSue]

I disagree use the Lamont method of jacking up and removing the shock bolt this way you won't lose the alignment settings run a while for the belt to stretch in and check the belt tension

Where is the Lamont procedure posted?

 

[billybovine]

I disagree use the Lamont method of jacking up and removing the shock bolt this way you won't lose the alignment settings run a while for the belt to stretch in and check the belt tension

Well that just doesn't apply. Changing a belt. Not a tire.

 

[r1100rider]

Well that just doesn't apply. Changing a belt. Not a tire.

Yes it does jacking up and pulling the shock bolt lets the belt go lose and you can change it without pulling the axle I've done it this way

 

[billybovine]

Yes it does jacking up and pulling the shock bolt lets the belt go lose and you can change it without pulling the axle I've done it this way

Getting a new belt the same length as the old belt is extremely unlikely. Tension and alignment needs to be redone.

 

[r1100rider]

Getting a new belt the same length as the old belt is extremely unlikely. Tension and alignment needs to be redone.

Still worth a try alignment won't change and the belt tension may work point is its way easier than pulling the axle and brake and adjusters like you have to do changing a tire if belt tension is way off after a little break in then all you have to do is back off the axle bolts and adjust

 

[kiwirs]

I have used Lamonts method to change a Belt, and its a lot easier by far than taking off the wheel etc. You still need to check alignment and tension when reassembling but that's not too hard just need to make sure you've studied how to do it.

Instead of removing the wheel and all that goes with that. jack the rear, undo the lower link suspension bolt. Remember which side the spacers/shims go on, they are different for left and right . Drop the wheel, remove old, put on the new. Put things back together then check alignment and belt tension. Remember to check bolt torque settings on reassembly. the job took me about 3 hours to complete.

good luck

 

[SpyderSue]

I have used Lamonts method to change a Belt, and its a lot easier by far than taking off the wheel etc. You still need to check alignment and tension when reassembling but that's not too hard just need to make sure you've studied how to do it.

Instead of removing the wheel and all that goes with that. jack the rear, undo the lower link suspension bolt. Remember which side the spacers/shims go on, they are different for left and right . Drop the wheel, remove old, put on the new. Put things back together then check alignment and belt tension. Remember to check bolt torque settings on reassembly. the job took me about 3 hours to complete.

good luck

You guys rock. Job is done, and I'd say it took about 3 hours with some of that fighting to get a couple of rusted bolts apart :banghead: I used the method above, and it worked very well. I've got an appointment with my dealer to have them check tension and alignment as I'm selling this bike and want to be sure it is correct for the next owner. Thanks for all your help!!