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GPS Install Tech Help-Connectors

h0gr1der

New member
Ladies and Gentlemen;

I'm needing a little assistance with the GPS wiring on a 2018 RTL. From my reading I have gathered the BRP part numbers of the pins, plugs and seals. But someone mentioned a pigtail available from Amazon or Ebay. Referenced were AMP Superseals. That would be so much easier.

I bought this- https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Kit-2-Pi...509866&hash=item3d4412d6e4:g:tFsAAOSwxXBZeE-m

Before I start removing panels (for the first time ever) I would like some advice from folks that have actually used parts not from BRP to do this install. I have a GPS (Zumo 550) that I'm going to have to run temporarily. It has 2 wires for 12V power.

So the big question is, does the Customer Circuit for the GPS, located halfway down the seat on the left side, use the AMP Superseal 1.5 connectors, or is it some proprietary BRP thing? Please, no speculation, only hands on advice if you've personally done or witnessed the connectors being used. If the AMP Superseals aren't the correct item, maybe some guidance on what to use please.

I saw a MUYI referenced in this thread, not sure but in one of the reviews it said it was compatible with the AMP Superseal. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?119892-Does-2018-RT-have-GPS-connector-under-seat.

Thanks for any assistance.
 
Why are you installing a GPS when the bike came with the ability to use a smartphone in the dash? I don't understand spending way more for the bike then even more to add the external GPS when a 2017 RTL would've come with it already built in.

The earlier models come with AM/FM radio connected GPS and the ability to install a CB. The newer models come with FM radio only, no CB capabilities either. All other music and tech is from the smartphone.

The other thing is $40 will get you Garmin on a smartphone and all you'd need to do is mount it on the dash and provide power for it and pair you BT headset and you're done. Although it's still easier with gloves on, to work with the joystick compared to the smartphone.
 
I like a standalone GPS. The Zumo series are pretty much waterproof. One of the most rugged GPS products I have ever used. The screens are daylight bright (readable) for the most part, compared to phones and automobile GPS. My phone definitely isn't waterproof. I once mounted a Nuvi, but I had to Ziplock it to make it home as it was not water resistant, and it was very dim, hard to read.
 
I already had my Zumo , I switch it to my other rides when I need
to. I like the features. Has all my saved routes and curvy places stored
 
I'm budgeting. Safety first (Tires, sway bar, alignment, maybe front preload adjusters, rear lighting). Next- Performance improvement- Belt guard, belt tensioner (though it quit vibrating when I lowered the tension), sheepskin cover, GPS. I like the Zumo 595LM. Just side load the BRP dealer POI file and it should be good to go.
 
My OEM front tires were frighteningly bad. Took them off and put on some Vredesteins. Huge improvement. Weighed them, 10 ounces difference between them, and they were out of round. Had them back to the dealer for re-balance, coming home was a little better but still making the fender flap. I forgot to mention I want a ISCI hand brake, but that's a very costly item. I'm slightly lame in the right leg...
 
Take your time. It does take time to get used to the Spyder. I found balancing the Spyder can be a pain. I dont know how many times I had my federals balanced then used a Road Force Balancer it puts pressure on the wheel when balancing and finally found someone who did it right. Plus getting the right PSI on the front and rear made it ride like a dream. But I do have the sway bar and shock adjusters. Upgrading to the M2 shocks soon.

Sometime you will see a deal on the ISCI here when someone removes there off the Spyder.
 
I have a funny story about road force balance. The Kenda OEM tires were so bad I had to get them off of there. So I bought the tires from Tire Rack, and as soon as they came in I took them to the place with road force balance. Installed, they road fairly good. Meanwhile I ordered a Marc Parnes Spyder balancer, and while it was storming (is it ever gonna stop?) I pulled the fronts and put them on the balancer. He makes one special for the Spyder. Compact, use jack stands or some such to support the shaft. Left side wheel promptly spun to the bottom. Took 4- 5 gram weights to balance, exactly opposite the newly installed weights. Right side did exactly the same. Called Marc, he said strip all the weights off and start fresh. Not the road force balance weights were exactly centered on the rim, indicating a more or less static type balance. Stripped the weights, ended up with 20 (4 weights) grams on the right. 15 (3 weights) grams on the left, smoother than before. Darned road force machine must have been off!
 
Forget about all of the wiring accessories. Just fix it to the battery with pos. and neg. there is nothing on or in the bike you will need for the latest Garmin... Just trying to help.
Bill Bray
 
Mr. Wobray,

I had considered just that, but I do intend to install an additional fuse block like the FZ1 with both switched and un-switched power, and I didn't want a multitude of wires hanging off of my battery posts. Makes it hard to get around in there. I figured if Can Am supplied me a 12 VDC switched and fused connection just for the GPS, other than buying a cheap AMP Superseal connector and taking some plastic loose, what's to lose? At a later date I can install the fuse block and have all the power I want for other accessories.
 
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