Fuse F8 blows on My 2012 RT Ltd - what does all this mean? Any thoughts?

[zame]

The F8 fuse blows every time I change it (20 A). My book manual reads for F8 - Vbat: Horn and Shedding relay - Vrelayed: suspension relay, heated grip, HA and LED pilot lights: CSS, FHS, and FGS

My first question is: What is HA, CSS, FHS, & FGS?
Second: What is Vbat and Vrelayed? Does it mean power direct from battery?

I can run the heaters, fog lights, and use the horn. I know that the compressor does not work, found that out last year when I blew the rear shock (a BIG pot hole!) I replaced it successfully. When I noticed the horn not working, I replaced it, but it was no help. I can use the horn key off/on, so I start the bike and turned on all the functions for Fuse 8; all seems fine idling but when I get on the bike and drive away, then the fuse blows.

Note: the suspension gauge on the cluster goes up and down from the switch and I feel nothing (But heart ache :gaah

When I replaced the rear shock, I noticed someone had messed with the compressor and I left it alone. That's a lot to unpack. Oh, by the way, I am selling my 2012 RT and have a buyer, but will not sell it until it is perfect. I do my own work and also am repainting the fender that has minor scratches.

PLEASE someone, any thoughts? Tom

 

[djh3]

No familiar with some of the code words. But V-bat is "voltage-battery" And the V-relay is Voltage relayed. Now where it goes without a wire diagram no idea. But if its relayed guess would be something of a higher voltage required. Typically if a fuse "blows" you have a direct short to ground in circuit.

 

[Mikey]

I am sort of leaning towards that compressor! I wonder if it may have a short to ground in it somewhere, or something in that circuit. You say it will all work till you sit on the bike then it blows, that leads me to believe that when you sit on the bike the air systems kicking in and blowing that fuse. :dontknow: If it ends up being the compressor, do yourself a favor and the guy that wants to buy it, change it over to a manual fill and get that compressor out of the picture!!

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Also leaning towards the compressor. So, Zame, in order to eliminate the compressor, do this. It’ll only take you 10 minutes:

Open your fuse box and remove relay R1. See pic. The only thing that relay does is run the compressor. Just grab it and pull. They just plug in. Then replace the fuse and go out for a ride to see if the fuse blows. If it still blows, it's something else. If it doesn't, it's the compressor or the compressor harness. If so, in order to make it perfect, it will be big bucks. Maybe just sell as is with full disclosure. That's up to you. Let us know what happens.

 

[Bfromla]

Could also be relay itself

 

[Jetfixer]

HA is the hood actuator, the others are lights.

 

[DGoebel]

Also leaning towards the compressor. So, Zame, in order to eliminate the compressor, do this. It’ll only take you 10 minutes:

Doug wins the Answering a question with an actual answer, a systematic way to troubleshoot the issue, and a real likely solution Award. Would that more folks would answer like this. Kudos to Snowbelt Spyder Doug!