Frunk Release Force

[Texas]

My 2014 RT-S doesn't have an electric frunk release, so turning the key in my entry in. The force exerted to open it has always been pretty great. When the dealer went through this training with me, I noticed even the Service Manager had a hard time with it, but he didn't seem concerned at all; so I wasn't either. However, I've always felt the amount of force needed has been too great (great enough that I've always worried I was going to break the key.

Last night I took the plastic off (this time to install HIDs for Headlights and Fogs), so I thought I would inspect this and modify it so that it opens easier. However, upon inspection, I found that the reason it requires so much force is because at the point where the cable hold is on the lock bracket and the cable is exposed; was not even with the lock. Instead, the cable makes a sharp turn (imagine trying to pull a cable out of my hand if was around the corner; using that corner as leverage to keep you from taking it).

The cable has a hook on it which attaches to the lock. This hook was installed from the underside, instead of the top side (like it should be). I corrected this, which now makes the cable straight (which is the way it should have been installed). Now it takes almost no effort to turn the key to open the trunk.

I don't know if this was done at the factory or at the dealership, but if you are experiencing this as well, it's a 5 minute fix.

 

[Chupaca]

Good to know..!!

there have been issues with the ignition switch..keys getting stuck, bad key codes, not releasing latches. May well have been factory installed and the cause of this at any rate. Good to know it is an easy fix..thanks..!! :2thumbs:

 

[retread]

The frunk is part of the dealer setup, you might let them know what you found.

john

 

[Bob Denman]

Nice catch!! :2thumbs:
And :agree: It was the dealer's job to make sure that all was "okie-dokie", before releasing the bike to you... :shocked:

 

[bluestratos]

Unless a dealer knows they did it wrong in the past, things like this are "black magic" to them with no apparent solution. Share your findings with your dealer so they can train the setup team to do it right.

On another note, I hated having to use the key to open my frunk so I bought $15 worth of parts off the internet and installed my own electric frunk opener. I hooked mine up to open anytime I push the switch, key on or off. I could have wired it to only open the same as the pre 14's, just a matter of preference.

 

[StanProff]

My 2010 has the electric push button, I use it a lot and would miss it if it wasn't there.

 

[ARtraveler]

Also having issues with my frunk release. It will open, but does not want to close/latch unless I pull the key, jiggle it around and "catch" the cable. Already told my dealer about it and they will be having to fix it when I bring it in for oil change service in about 1000 miles.

 

[Texas]

Also having issues with my frunk release. It will open, but does not want to close/latch unless I pull the key, jiggle it around and "catch" the cable. Already told my dealer about it and they will be having to fix it when I bring it in for oil change service in about 1000 miles.

Open the Frunk and remove the black plastic covers on the corners (mainly the one port side). Look at the cable at the retainer (cable will be exposed at this point) and see if the cable runs straight to the lock, or if it runs inward (at about a 45 degree angle). If it is at an angle, this is your problem. You can easily fix it yourself (no tools are needed) by removing the hook from the back, and reconnect it from the front (which will make the cable straight).

I too had issues at time with the frunk not wanting to latch when I closed it. Again, this is due to the lock not having enough power in the spring to latch when the cable is not installed properly.

 

[ARtraveler]

Open the Frunk and remove the black plastic covers on the corners (mainly the one port side). Look at the cable at the retainer (cable will be exposed at this point) and see if the cable runs straight to the lock, or if it runs inward (at about a 45 degree angle). If it is at an angle, this is your problem. You can easily fix it yourself (no tools are needed) by removing the hook from the back, and reconnect it from the front (which will make the cable straight).

I too had issues at time with the frunk not wanting to latch when I closed it. Again, this is due to the lock not having enough power in the spring to latch when the cable is not installed properly.

Thanks, I will give this a try. :thumbup:

 

[Hawk]

On my 14, it was very hard to open as well. Had it in for the key recall and asked them to look at it. They had to order a new cable as they said something on the cable housing was broken. It opens VERY easily now. Glad yours was only put on wrong.

 

[Wwulf76]

On my husbands 2011 the trunk latch was out of alignment. He always had to turn and hold the key and lift the lid at the same time. Sometimes it would not close unless "persuaded". He adjusted it by loosening the 2 bolts that mount it and while it doesn't adjust back and forth it does adjust up and down such that you can align it with the proper angle. It opens properly with just a push of the button or turn of the key and closes just by dropping the lid. Might be something to check if the cable seems to be in working order.

 

[PMK]

On the 14 as mentioned, I found ours with the "Z" cable end installed wrong. Correcting made it better. Icing on the cake was to use flat bill piers or similar and align the cable housing bracket with a very slight bending adjustment to get everything aligned. Easy, and maybe not needed, bu one of those everything adds up to a better end product.

PK

 

[jaherbst]

For those of you having trouble with your latches, Frunk, trunk, top case and sidebags try a little spray on stickum lubrication. Works wonders. Most of mine were dry from the factory. Go figure. My guess is this is the main culprit. Try it. lithium grease sticks best or try DPS. A cotton tipped swab works best for application allowing you to get to the back side. Two of mine were sticking and hard to open. Now works with ease.

 

[CentralCoastCA]

Also having issues with my frunk release. It will open, but does not want to close/latch unless I pull the key, jiggle it around and "catch" the cable. Already told my dealer about it and they will be having to fix it when I bring it in for oil change service in about 1000 miles.

I'm having the exact same problem. If you find out what the problem is, I'd love to know.

 

[mtdoragary]

Thanks for the post. I'll adjust mine tonight after the skeeters go to bed.