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Fault Codes - Help!

Rando

New member
I have just over 3,000 miles on my PE Spyder. Until today, I have had no issues.

Today I went for a short ride. When I stopped at a light, the Spyder stalled out and gave me the following codes:

ABS Fault
VSS Fault
EBD Fault

I turned the key off, waited a couple of minutes then restarted it and drove away. Same thing happened at the next light. I went home and it did it again as soon as I stopped in the garage. This time it wouldn't restart and gave me another fault code:

Check DPS

Besides taking it back to the dealership, does anyone have any ideas on what might be the problem? Hopefully something simple.
 
First thing comes to mind, check the fuses and relays, for some reason they can get loose and cause problems. There are other people on here that are a lot more knowledgeable than me, but the fuses and relays would be my first check.
 
From what I have read and feed back I have gotten, it seems any problem with any component seems to cause the whole bike to shut down or go into limp mode. So far that I have seen, loose or bad fuses under the front trunk lid, corroded or weak battery and in my case, the VCM went bad. I had all those same codes.
 
I believe they said it stood for Vehicle Control Module...It's a braking component. Mine never quit running and I limp moded straight to the dealer. Your problem kinda matches the battery problem and the loose/faulty relay problem. I had no unusual idleling, just rpm limited to about 3500 rpms.
 
Update

Swapping the relays seems to have solved my issue. The relay might not be bad, maybe it was just loose? I am still trying to trouble shoot but the weather hasn't been cooperating. How can a relay be tested in order to see if it is bad or not?
 
Swapping the relays seems to have solved my issue. The relay might not be bad, maybe it was just loose? I am still trying to trouble shoot but the weather hasn't been cooperating. How can a relay be tested in order to see if it is bad or not?

Could have been loose, moist or who knows. I carry a couple of spare relays to overcome those problems.

.
 
Could have been loose, moist or who knows. I carry a couple of spare relays to overcome those problems.

.

:agree:

Unless a relay is just plain bad, it might be hard to test it. A lot of times, they start working intermittently (sticking on, sticking off, flakey contacts, etc.) before they just go bad. Just carry a couple of spares so when it does give up the ghost, you can replace it and go or just swap it out now to help avoid any issues.
 
I have just over 3,000 miles on my PE Spyder. Until today, I have had no issues.

Today I went for a short ride. When I stopped at a light, the Spyder stalled out and gave me the following codes:

ABS Fault
VSS Fault
EBD Fault

I turned the key off, waited a couple of minutes then restarted it and drove away. Same thing happened at the next light. I went home and it did it again as soon as I stopped in the garage. This time it wouldn't restart and gave me another fault code:

Check DPS

Besides taking it back to the dealership, does anyone have any ideas on what might be the problem? Hopefully something simple.
Check relays
 
If there is a diagram on the relay showing the circuit...remove relay...apply 12 volts to X1 and X2...ring out the current paths. I noticed you didn't mention returning them to original position...the relay in spot 3 may not use the same current paths relay 2 uses and vice versa...Some of the internal contacts that position 3 requires may be broken, but the relay works in position 2 and vice versa. Does it still work when you swap them back to orginal? Having spare relays is also good idea...they don't care for sweet talk and know when your in the middle of no-where!
 
The relay must have had a dirty contact or was just loose. I swapped them back to their original position and rode it to work today with no issues. I purchased a couple of spares just in case it happens again.
 
If this starts to happen more often, even after you replace the relay, do this. I don't know how mechanically inclined, or flexible you are, but take your front storage box off. On the very bottom of your frame rail, you will see a square aluminum box with a bunch of hard brake lines coming out of it. That's your VCM. There is a big black connector on the left side of the box. It has a lever on the top. Pull the lever down, until it pops the connector out. Look for green corrosion on the connctor's 4 big pins, and matching pins for VCM.

I've included some pics, that I sent to BRP. I replaced the VCM, which pays something like 2hrs, and the main wiring harness. There is no job code for this, so....I called BRP and got them to approve 5hrs of additional labor. Trust me you do not want to attemp this. Please if you see corrosion, take it to a dealer. Every piece of plastic has to come off, and all of the connectors in the back go thru the frame rail. NOT FUN!!!
http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb229/OkiNutsEP3/?action=view&current=Photo0085.jpghttp://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb229/OkiNutsEP3/?action=view&current=Photo0086.jpghttp://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb229/OkiNutsEP3/?action=view&current=Photo0087.jpg
 
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The VCM, and connector are located in the lowest spot of the vehicle. Moisture can creep into the "waterproof" connector. This happened on our demo unit. In florida it is not uncommoan to have 4" of rain in an hour, it was probably the case here.
 
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