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F3T shifting question

I-Day

New member
I have a 2016 F3T with the semi-automatic! I have been down shifting manually from 6th to 3rd gear and then let the bike go from 3rd to 1st when slowing down to stop. My question is it ok to downshift manually?
 
I have a 2016 F3T with the semi-automatic! I have been down shifting manually from 6th to 3rd gear and then let the bike go from 3rd to 1st when slowing down to stop. My question is it ok to downshift manually?
Abolutely!
 
I don't think that you have anything to worry about. I downshift all the time on my F3. If it wasn't ok, I don't think BRP would have given you the option to do so. Ride more, worry less!
 
...... My question is it ok to downshift manually?


Seeing that the the Semi-Auto gearbox our Spyders run is actually pretty much just the MANUAL gearbox with the addition of a hydraulic clutch & solenoid activated shifting, plus a 'failsafe over-ride down-shift' to protect the driveline & change down if the operator doesn't match road speed to the appropriate gear selection/throttle setting well enough, I would've thought you should instead be asking "is it ok to let it downshift automatically?" :shocked:

It's a manual gearbox people; and just like many other hi-tech vehicles out there today, it has some 'becoming more commonplace' hi-tech & sexy gearchange & clutch features that work 'better/quicker/safer/impose less wear than the old school manual stuff' built into it, and it also has some built in protection features so that you can't break things if you miss changing down when you should or if you get lazy..... :lecturef_smilie:


So just drive it & use it like the manual gearbox it is to your hearts content, unless you don't want to, in which case the fail-safe down change feature will look after you, exactly as it was designed to do! :thumbup:

Ride More, Worry Less!
 
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What they said...

Shift at the point you feel most comfortable. If you do it like you did on a manual you could save on brakes by using engine compression a bit more...:thumbup:
 
I find downshifting with the paddle along with lightly using the brakes works best. I also stop at second gear and let the computer put it in first. Really saves on brake pads if you do it this way.
 
Perfectly OK

I have a 2016 F3T with the semi-automatic! I have been down shifting manually from 6th to 3rd gear and then let the bike go from 3rd to 1st when slowing down to stop. My question is it ok to downshift manually?

I'm with Peter and the others ... go ahead and enjoy your downshifting/engine-braking. I'm ryding a 2017 F3L SE, and I do much like you ... I manually engine-brake from 6th down to 3rd, then let the Spyder do the last couple of down-shifts by itself. When needing to decelerate, my instincts always have been to 'anticipate' or down-shift well before the Spyder's auto-shift program wants to kick in. I don't do this at excessive revs; my rev count does go up, but never dangerously so. I do like to feel my engine working; I appreciate having that power underneath me fully engaged if I need it. I've had no problems, no worries in my first 12,000 km. Because I do this often, and usually without touching my brakes, I did install an additional deceleration brake light to warn following traffic that I am indeed slowing up; it works independently of the regular brake light and comes on by itself as I reduce speed. As Peter A. says, the SE system is pretty much fail-safe. In an unguarded, inattentive moment one day when first getting used to my new Spyder, I absentmindedly did a down-shift while doing a quick acceleration take-off when I really meant to be up-shifting - instead of going from 3rd to 4th under full throttle, I actually dropped it back into 2nd during a 'goofy' moment. No harm, lots of roar, but the bike and I quickly recovered and continued on climbing back up through the gears. I have 'pushed' my down-shifts on occasion; nothing terribly ridiculous, but the engine has certainly 'braked' very effectively, and I'm very comfortable in its continued safe performance. Hope it's the same for you.
 
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In my experience it down-shifts a little too late, when rider doesn't. That make it "jerky". Manual down-shifting works much better for me.
 
Keep in mind that your brake lights will not come on if you let the transmission do ALL of the deceleration work.

I'm trying to get in the habit of tapping the brakes lightly a couple of times as the speed slows.......regardless of which way it happens.

You actually can go all the way to zero (or very close) in many conditions without any brake at all but it often is not a good idea to do that.
 
Keep in mind that your brake lights will not come on if you let the transmission do ALL of the deceleration work....

Not quite correct...or at least it is possible to have a brake light which works on deceleration alone, without using your foot on the brake pedal. See, for example, the Admore 'Smart Technology' brake light:
https://admorelighting.com/product/admore-light-bar-smart-brake-technology-deceleration-safety/. I have this installed on my F3L Spyder (see photo); it is the light bar mounted just above my licence plate and works independently of the regular Spyder system.

There are a couple of other makes on the market - e.g. 'Gear Brake' and 'Vololights'. All of these are actuated by the deceleration of the motorcycle caused by engine braking/downshifting without needing to tap the brake pedal. Yes, it does mean purchasing an additional light system, which functions separately from and in addition to the main brake light. The Admore is compatible with the CanBus system on newer Spyders; it is a very simple add-on and offers enhanced safety through warning others of your intention to slow down. It can be programmed to strobe flash (at varying speeds), remain constant and/or indicate turns through sequential flashing arrows. Lots of options.
20171027_170315.jpg
 
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Absolutely it's ok! I refuse to let any machine on two or three wheels shift for me....ever....I have the SE6, but i always control what gear I'm in, even when slowing to a stop at a red light :D
 
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