Figured I would post these up, granted my version, but the F3 body is different so some special
items will apply although it is still the 1330 engine.
Tools
T45 (For Left side Oil Plug)
M6 Hex (For Right side Oil Plug)
T25 (For side panel bolts)
Flathead screw driver (Pop the top panel pins)
(??) Mystery wrench or large socket of choice that fits the oil filter top. I had
a 36mm socket.
REMOVAL
1) Open Frunk and remove the front-center black cover. (Pull up on sides then backwards)
2) Remove top-right lateral panel (Use twist lock)
3) Remove right engine panel. (3 top pins, 4-T25 bolts-two rear/two front)
4) Relocate brake reservoir. (Push up reservoir only to unlock, hold up and back, slide something
like a long screwdriver through the opening on its left side to prop it above the frame rail). If you
look behind it there is a molded "T" section that holds it into its mount.
5) Tie a paper towel (etc) around the Oil Filter housing.
6) Unscrew the dipstick but DO NOT REMOVE. (Keeps dust out)
7) Loosen Filter Cap fully (Do not remove yet. This will let the oil drain fully now. Oil may drip onto
that nice towel you just put around the housing)
8) Remove LEFT SIDE oil plug with T45 (make sure it is fully seated)
9) Remove RIGHT SIDE oil plug with M6 Hex (make sure it is fully seated)
10) Let oil drain....a long long time. I did overnight.
11) Remove Oil Filter Housing Cap. By this time all the oil is out of the filter and housing.
(Here is why relocation of the reservoir was needed)
12) Remove the Oil Filter. (Should be almost bone dry drained)
13) Place cotton towelette into filter housing. (Soak up the oil inside at the base)
14) If no more oil is dripping and the housing is dry inside.... Reverse it all.
REPLACE
R1) Insert Oil Filter
R2) Replace Oil Housing with NEW o-rings
R3) Replace both drain plugs with NEW o-rings (Left side), and proper washers. Aluminum on Left
and Copper on right. Torque to 18lbs MAX!
R4) Put brake reservoir back/down into its holding mount.
R5) And this is key.... PUT IN DA OIL. (My F3S/SE6 took the 5.9qts easy...so what's a full 6 among friends!)
OTHER STUFF
I replaced every o-ring, crush washer, and obviously the filter that BajaRon sent, which should
be what you get in the BRP kit. (Filter name is probably different). I torqued the oil-drain plugs
to 18lbs (THAT’S IT and all you need). The oil filter cap BE CAREFUL. This you bottom-out on snug
and that is all it can/will go. There is no more...more, once at bottom. The large o-ring is the main
seal for this. When replacing the side panels, again BE CAREFUL on those T25 bolts and just snug to base.
The left side plug has two o-rings and an the thin aluminum washer. The right side plug has a
copper washer and smaller in diameter. The filter housing has one large o-ring at the top, and
two on the housing base stalk.
I also took the time to clean the engine while the panel was off... Makes it easier to identify
any leaks or whatnot in the future knowing you had cleaned it.
Ran her about 10mins until I had at least 2 bars showing on the temp gauge, rechecked and the
fill was spot-on!
items will apply although it is still the 1330 engine.
Tools
T45 (For Left side Oil Plug)
M6 Hex (For Right side Oil Plug)
T25 (For side panel bolts)
Flathead screw driver (Pop the top panel pins)
(??) Mystery wrench or large socket of choice that fits the oil filter top. I had
a 36mm socket.
REMOVAL
1) Open Frunk and remove the front-center black cover. (Pull up on sides then backwards)
2) Remove top-right lateral panel (Use twist lock)
3) Remove right engine panel. (3 top pins, 4-T25 bolts-two rear/two front)
4) Relocate brake reservoir. (Push up reservoir only to unlock, hold up and back, slide something
like a long screwdriver through the opening on its left side to prop it above the frame rail). If you
look behind it there is a molded "T" section that holds it into its mount.
5) Tie a paper towel (etc) around the Oil Filter housing.
6) Unscrew the dipstick but DO NOT REMOVE. (Keeps dust out)
7) Loosen Filter Cap fully (Do not remove yet. This will let the oil drain fully now. Oil may drip onto
that nice towel you just put around the housing)
8) Remove LEFT SIDE oil plug with T45 (make sure it is fully seated)
9) Remove RIGHT SIDE oil plug with M6 Hex (make sure it is fully seated)
10) Let oil drain....a long long time. I did overnight.
11) Remove Oil Filter Housing Cap. By this time all the oil is out of the filter and housing.
(Here is why relocation of the reservoir was needed)
12) Remove the Oil Filter. (Should be almost bone dry drained)
13) Place cotton towelette into filter housing. (Soak up the oil inside at the base)
14) If no more oil is dripping and the housing is dry inside.... Reverse it all.
REPLACE
R1) Insert Oil Filter
R2) Replace Oil Housing with NEW o-rings
R3) Replace both drain plugs with NEW o-rings (Left side), and proper washers. Aluminum on Left
and Copper on right. Torque to 18lbs MAX!
R4) Put brake reservoir back/down into its holding mount.
R5) And this is key.... PUT IN DA OIL. (My F3S/SE6 took the 5.9qts easy...so what's a full 6 among friends!)
OTHER STUFF
I replaced every o-ring, crush washer, and obviously the filter that BajaRon sent, which should
be what you get in the BRP kit. (Filter name is probably different). I torqued the oil-drain plugs
to 18lbs (THAT’S IT and all you need). The oil filter cap BE CAREFUL. This you bottom-out on snug
and that is all it can/will go. There is no more...more, once at bottom. The large o-ring is the main
seal for this. When replacing the side panels, again BE CAREFUL on those T25 bolts and just snug to base.
The left side plug has two o-rings and an the thin aluminum washer. The right side plug has a
copper washer and smaller in diameter. The filter housing has one large o-ring at the top, and
two on the housing base stalk.
I also took the time to clean the engine while the panel was off... Makes it easier to identify
any leaks or whatnot in the future knowing you had cleaned it.
Ran her about 10mins until I had at least 2 bars showing on the temp gauge, rechecked and the
fill was spot-on!
