My engine warning light has appeared and the codes U0155 and P0172. I had installed a full triple threat exhaust on my bike and did not realize I needed to let it idle for 10 minutes to reset the fuel mixture. The dealer says I need to buy a Dynajet and have it installed to correct the problem. It costs $400. I would like the advice of knowledgeable Spyder owners about this issue. Thanks.
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Engine warning light & codes U0155, P0172?? 2019 F3 Base Model SE6
- Thread starter Ensleyboy
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
A Can-Am dealer recommending you buy a " Dyna-Jet " ..... In my experience on this forum, Dealers don't recommend Anything that doesn't come from BRP. I would dis-connect the Battery .... touch the leads together, then re-connect them ( with STAR washers ) .... then run the engine for 10-15 minutes and see if that fixes it ..... someone will answer about the codes ..... good luck .... Mike
hyea:
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
You DON'T need to let it idle for 10 minutes to reset the fuel mixture. That's a long running item of bum dope around here. To reset the fuel mixture you need to take it out and ride it.
However, in your case, you have a "U" code, also. That's an indication that there is a CAN-BUS network error. Your dealer should have told you that. Generically, that comes back to a network error to the cluster, although, somebody with a shop manual specific to an F3 should double check the cluster part. Bottom line though, you have a CAN-BUS network problem. So, go back though your work and check that you have everything plugged back in or if you damaged any wiring.
P0172 code for the 1330 is a bank 1 Rich code. By changing the exhaust, I would expect a lean condition, not a rich one. So, that doesn't fit with the work that you did, either. But, until you resolve the CAN-BUS error code, that "P" code may not even be valid. If it is, search the forum for P0172 and you'll get some other information concerning a software update for the 2019 as well as a cam timing issue. Don't even be thinking about a fuel controller.
If this is all too many issues to process, then put everything back to stock and see what happens. If the issues are still there, then maybe you could work it under warranty. Maybe.
A Can-Am dealer recommending you buy a " Dyna-Jet " ..... In my experience on this forum, Dealers don't recommend Anything that doesn't come from BRP. I would dis-connect the Battery .... touch the leads together, then re-connect them ( with STAR washers ) .... then run the engine for 10-15 minutes and see if that fixes it ..... someone will answer about the codes ..... good luck .... Mike
I've never seen/heard of this to clear codes. The codes are stored in the ECU/ECM. Is this documented as a procedure somewhere for the average Joe to be able to clear codes? Any further details?
Curious, do you have any documentation/link to back this up?
MY THOUGHTS: Based on what I've read and think...I'm certainly open to documentation/science not conjecture proving me wrong...
Idling - sitting in one space - the ECU can adjust to a constant - so it can go through whatever algorithm it needs to to find the ideal settings for that constant. Riding would be variable. The ECU would be constantly chasing changes trying to find the ideal settings.
Any shooters in the house? If you are sighting in a new long rifle - you typically want to stabilize the rifle and shoot at a fixed target. You can adjust your sights based on where the bullet is hitting the target. Know anyone that sights in with the target moving around? I theorize it's the same concept.
As a software engineer - I know that programming something to chase a moving target is a much more daunting task than programming something to chase a fixed target.
Anyway - just my random thoughts on the subject.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
The base line settings are stored in a table, called the fuel table or fuel map. There are literally hundreds of squares corresponding to different values of throttle position and engine RPM. Looks like a spread sheet. Each square contains an entry to control the turn on time of the fuel injectors at that combination of throttle position and RPM. It can’t be changed. It’s flashed onto the chip in the ECU from the manufacturer. If you send your ECU out for a flash, they over-write the table with a new one. That’s your baseline fuel mapping. You don’t have to activate it or turn it on. It’s always active.
The baseline is only good for the perfect engine on the perfect day. The ECU needs a way to make minor tweaks on fuel delivery in order to compensate for the real world or mechanical changes. Very minor tweaks. That function is called fuel compensation or fuel trim. It references the output voltage of the O2 sensor. That voltage corresponds to the required Air Fuel Ratio. It’s nothing more than a control loop where-as the ECU attempts to maintain a constant voltage from the O2 sensor, and makes that adjustment by changing fuel trim. Maintains a constant voltage - thus maintains a constant AFR. Works, in theory, just like your cruise control except we’re not allowed to change the set-point. It doesn’t change any values in the main fuel table. Instead, there’s an identical table of throttle position vs RPM where these fuel trim values get stored. Called the Long Term Fuel Trim. Again, hundreds of squares. Unless the engine is operated at each one of those conditions, the value in that square won’t get updated.
Even with today’s engines, this is technology that is over 20 years old. Don’t give it more credit than it deserves. There are no algorithms. There’s is no learning new settings. There is no establishing new constants. It’s not AI. And it certainly has nothing to do with shooting. It’s just a controller. The ECU just reads a setting, does some basic math based on input from a sensor, and turns on a fuel injector. That’s all. Each of the hundreds of combinations of throttle position and RPM in the fuel table has a dedicated setting. The ECU interpolates between the squares in order to make it a smooth transition across the entire operating range as it goes from square to square.
Idling doesn’t hurt anything. But it doesn’t do anything either. It’s not some magic wand or required thing you have to do in order to establish a new baseline or activate a new tune or set a new constant. There’s no such thing.
So, all idling will do is update that one fuel trim value, in that one square, for idle conditions. There are still hundreds left to update, if it’s necessary. You just need to ride around and it takes care of itself. Heck, if all of this idling stuff was required, then we’d have to idle for 10 minutes every time the weather changed. So, start the motor, put on your helmet and just go.
If you don’t have any formal training in fuel injections systems, that’s OK. There are hundreds of videos, and on line courses on the internet that will teach you all of this. Specifically search for fuel maps, fuel tables, long term fuel trim, short term fuel trim, closed loop operation, open loop operation, three-way catalytic converter, and O2 sensors. That will peak your interest and you can go on from there. Or, forget about it all and just ride.
The baseline is only good for the perfect engine on the perfect day. The ECU needs a way to make minor tweaks on fuel delivery in order to compensate for the real world or mechanical changes. Very minor tweaks. That function is called fuel compensation or fuel trim. It references the output voltage of the O2 sensor. That voltage corresponds to the required Air Fuel Ratio. It’s nothing more than a control loop where-as the ECU attempts to maintain a constant voltage from the O2 sensor, and makes that adjustment by changing fuel trim. Maintains a constant voltage - thus maintains a constant AFR. Works, in theory, just like your cruise control except we’re not allowed to change the set-point. It doesn’t change any values in the main fuel table. Instead, there’s an identical table of throttle position vs RPM where these fuel trim values get stored. Called the Long Term Fuel Trim. Again, hundreds of squares. Unless the engine is operated at each one of those conditions, the value in that square won’t get updated.
Even with today’s engines, this is technology that is over 20 years old. Don’t give it more credit than it deserves. There are no algorithms. There’s is no learning new settings. There is no establishing new constants. It’s not AI. And it certainly has nothing to do with shooting. It’s just a controller. The ECU just reads a setting, does some basic math based on input from a sensor, and turns on a fuel injector. That’s all. Each of the hundreds of combinations of throttle position and RPM in the fuel table has a dedicated setting. The ECU interpolates between the squares in order to make it a smooth transition across the entire operating range as it goes from square to square.
Idling doesn’t hurt anything. But it doesn’t do anything either. It’s not some magic wand or required thing you have to do in order to establish a new baseline or activate a new tune or set a new constant. There’s no such thing.
So, all idling will do is update that one fuel trim value, in that one square, for idle conditions. There are still hundreds left to update, if it’s necessary. You just need to ride around and it takes care of itself. Heck, if all of this idling stuff was required, then we’d have to idle for 10 minutes every time the weather changed. So, start the motor, put on your helmet and just go.
If you don’t have any formal training in fuel injections systems, that’s OK. There are hundreds of videos, and on line courses on the internet that will teach you all of this. Specifically search for fuel maps, fuel tables, long term fuel trim, short term fuel trim, closed loop operation, open loop operation, three-way catalytic converter, and O2 sensors. That will peak your interest and you can go on from there. Or, forget about it all and just ride.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
I would dis-connect the Battery .... touch the leads together, then re-connect them ( with STAR washers ) .... then run the engine for 10-15 minutes and see if that fixes it ..... someone will answer about the codes ..... good luck .... Mike
Of course it doesn't clear codes. Think about it. A code that lights the Check Engine Light and is displayed on the screen is an ACTIVE code. You have an ACTIVE code for a reason. It's because you have an ACTIVE malfunction. This isn't the 1950's and we're not working on old TV's and radios. We don't need to touch leads together in order to discharge humungous capacitors. If you want to clear an ACTIVE code, you need to actually fix something. Most all Active codes will clear when the condition that causes them is corrected...except for that Brake Low Pressure Switch Code, of course. You have to go through the special procedure for that. So, if you want to clear an ACTIVE code and clear the CEL, you need to troubleshoot and correct the problem. Permanently.
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