Electrical isolator

[flyjake]

I'm adding a trailer and need some info on an electrical isolator. Which one are you using? How difficult to install? I will appreciate any help/advice I can get!

 

[bjt]

The one we used was included with our Bushtec hitch. Sorry but I don't remember the name or specs. It went in very easy with a couple of leads to the battery, a few leads spliced into the brake and turn signal wires and the rest of the leads going out to the trailer wiring harness.

 

[flyjake]

The one we used was included with our Bushtec hitch. Sorry but I don't remember the name or specs. It went in very easy with a couple of leads to the battery, a few leads spliced into the brake and turn signal wires and the rest of the leads going out to the trailer wiring harness.

Thanks! I looked at a pic of the EC isolator and it looked pretty straightforward, but I wasn't sure. It was a matter of getting one and doing it myself, or having to pay the dealer to install it.

 

[sabunim5]

My Escapade LE trailer did not require an electrical isolator. :dontknow:

 

[flyjake]

My Escapade LE trailer did not require an electrical isolator. :dontknow:

I'm guessing because your trailer has LED lights. I was told I needed the isolator because the extra electrical draw will cause problems with the Spyder. As it was, I intended to replace my regular trailer brake-taillight bulbs with led bulbs anyways. (If I do, maybe I won't need the isolator...)

 

[sabunim5]

My trailer has standard incandescent bulbs. In general, and up to a point, you can add load to a Spyder lighting circuit without triggering an error code or limp mode. The problem comes when you change to LED's on the original circuit and reduce the load below what the computer expects to see. Then the bells and whistles go off and you have problems. My knowledge of this is very rudimentary. I know that myself and at least a couple dozen other people have wired up their trailer hookup to the Spyder with no isolator and have had no problems. No Magic Neon are the folks who really have a true understanding of the Spyder and it's lighting. They have all sorts of kits with LED goodies that are plug and play, causing no problems. Their Triple Play kit gives the best rear visibility for a Spyder of anything I have seen so far. Wire your trailer in "the old fashioned way" (I did and so have many others) and you should not have any problems. Good Luck :thumbup:
sabunim5:spyder:

 

[flyjake]

My trailer has standard incandescent bulbs. In general, and up to a point, you can add load to a Spyder lighting circuit without triggering an error code or limp mode. The problem comes when you change to LED's on the original circuit and reduce the load below what the computer expects to see. Then the bells and whistles go off and you have problems. My knowledge of this is very rudimentary. I know that myself and at least a couple dozen other people have wired up their trailer hookup to the Spyder with no isolator and have had no problems. No Magic Neon are the folks who really have a true understanding of the Spyder and it's lighting. They have all sorts of kits with LED goodies that are plug and play, causing no problems. Their Triple Play kit gives the best rear visibility for a Spyder of anything I have seen so far. Wire your trailer in "the old fashioned way" (I did and so have many others) and you should not have any problems. Good Luck :thumbup:
sabunim5:spyder:

Thanks! You know, I will do that. I still intend, however, to use replacement led bulbs; (I will contact NMN.) That should certainly reduce the draw on the secondary trailer circuit. Then, if I get a message I will have to install the isolator.