Drive belt position???

[trikester]

Does anyone have the required (stated in the manual) 1mm minimum distance between the side of their drive belt and the flange on the rear cog?

Ever since I got my Spyder my belt has been right up against the flange.

When I rode with Lamonster, last August, I noticed that his belt was the same way. Since he had almost 20,000 miles on his Spyder at that time, I figured it must be OK to leave it that way.

I noticed that when I had mine serviced at 700 miles the shop didn't change the adjustment. I don't have 3,000 miles yet so I haven't been back in for another service, but so far the belt doesn't appear to be wearing on the side.

 

[brutus450]

mine was delivered with the belt all the way over. Its not pressing on the flange but is butted right up to it. Im not worried - dealer will replace if anything goes wrong.

 

[NancysToy]

Does anyone have the required (stated in the manual) 1mm minimum distance between the side of their drive belt and the flange on the rear cog?

Ever since I got my Spyder my belt has been right up against the flange.

When I rode with Lamonster, last August, I noticed that his belt was the same way. Since he had almost 20,000 miles on his Spyder at that time, I figured it must be OK to leave it that way.

I noticed that when I had mine serviced at 700 miles the shop didn't change the adjustment. I don't have 3,000 miles yet so I haven't been back in for another service, but so far the belt doesn't appear to be wearing on the side.

I got mine so it stays close to the correct distance. It is a bit variable. Most of the time when it looks like it is against the flange, there is still some clearance. A thumbnail will usually slide in the space, even though it looks like it won't. Ours was rubbing hard against the flange, leaving a mark and debris. At the 600 mile service, the dealer adjusted it too far the other way and the front sprocket flange started eating the belt. It also got real noisy. I had to take a few tries at it, since I didn't use the method Lamonster described, but it seems to stay where it should now.
-Scotty

 

[ataDude]

Yepper... I got the GAP!

Loosen the axle nut, jack the bike up, run in third gear and adjust the gap (two Allen-head bolts visible from the back) while it's running. Tighten back up. Done. (compliments to Lamont <I think> from months back)

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[Donzo]

Yepper... I got the GAP!

Loosen the axle nut, jack the bike up, run in third gear and adjust the gap (two Allen-head bolts visible from the back) while it's running. Tighten back up. Done.

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Great info! I plan on adjusting the tension on my belt to see if I can get rid of the annoying vibrations I am getting at 55-64mph. I might as well get the gap also....mine is right on the flange as well.

Does anyong know where you can get the belt tension gage? And how much it costs? I am not sure if I should tighten or loosen my belt at this point....so gotta get a good measure - From what I read in the "how to" section I want to be at 250 pounds - is that what you Spyder wrenches are adjusting to?

 

[ataDude]

....Does anyong know where you can get the belt tension gage? And how much it costs? I am not sure if I should tighten or loosen my belt at this point....so gotta get a good measure - From what I read in the "how to" section I want to be at 250 pounds - is that what you Spyder wrenches are adjusting to?

NAPA has 'em for about $10-12 (ask for a "belt tension gauge").

However, I now set mine manually (about 7/8" play on the non-stressed belt portion with about 10 pounds of pressure). If the bike has been in gear forward, that's the top of the belt. If it has been in gear reversed, the lower belt portion.

Have had it checked at the dealer a couple of times afterwards... always in the acceptable range and in the lowest 25%... which is where I wanted it.

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[trikester]

Thanks for the info. :clap:

 

[NancysToy]

Great info! I plan on adjusting the tension on my belt to see if I can get rid of the annoying vibrations I am getting at 55-64mph. I might as well get the gap also....mine is right on the flange as well.

Does anyong know where you can get the belt tension gage? And how much it costs? I am not sure if I should tighten or loosen my belt at this point....so gotta get a good measure - From what I read in the "how to" section I want to be at 250 pounds - is that what you Spyder wrenches are adjusting to?

IMO, the factory spec is way too tight! I would try backing it off a bit first.
-Scotty

 

[Donzo]

I got the gauge from NAPA today - it was $18.00. Later today I will be taking a measure and will adjust -

I will let you know how it goes.....

 

[Donzo]

Lamonster - how about a suggestion?!

OK, I got consistant readings of 200lbs on the drive belt - it also "feels" loose - prob. a 1 and 1/2 inch play.

What poundage do you think I should go for? 225, 250 etc?

Thanks in advance,

Don

 

[Donzo]

One more question:

To give me a rule of thumb - how much do you have to turn the keys that move the wheel to make a change. Are we talking 1/2 turn or 2 full turns to change setting 25lbs? Just to give me an idea -

thanks

 

[heatseek1127]

belt position

My 08 has 20 miles on it and it sitts at the flange also.

 

[ataDude]

One more question:

To give me a rule of thumb - how much do you have to turn the keys that move the wheel to make a change. Are we talking 1/2 turn or 2 full turns to change setting 25lbs? Just to give me an idea -

thanks

Doesn't take much to make a difference. No scientific info, though.... I'd do no more than 1/2 turn at a time.

As an example, I only loosened them seven turns to completely dismantle the drive and wheel.

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[swrafey2000]

When I put my rear wheel back on after painting it I set it at what the book said and had a vibration so I took it to my local dealer.What I didn't know was that there is a special tool the dealer is required to buy from BRP to properly adjust the belt,it costs a grand.the reason for the tool is because there are torque rubbers inside the belt hub which affect belt tension under acceleration.It only took a little over a half hour and cost 52 bucks.Since the drive belt isn't covered under warranty it was worth it.Also no more vibration.

 

[ataDude]

...the reason for the tool is because there are torque rubbers inside the belt hub which affect belt tension under acceleration....

I think your dealer is pulling your leg.

Yes, there are "rubbers" in the hub as there are on, at least, on all of the driveshaft bikes that I've had: Valk, VTX, ST1300, Goldwing, etc. They exist to help smoothly transfer the power from the source (in our case, a belt) to the wheel.

And, yes, there is an expensive tool to measure the belt tension sonically that BRP provides their dealers. But, that's all it is... a measuring tool.

But... the two are not tied together, at least IMHO. You can measure the belt tension without the expensive BRP sonic device.

Just MHO. :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

I think your dealer is pulling your leg.

Yes, there are "rubbers" in the hub as there are on, at least, on all of the driveshaft bikes that I've had: Valk, VTX, ST1300, Goldwing, etc. They exist to help smoothly transfer the power from the source (in our case, a belt) to the wheel.

And, yes, there is an expensive tool to measure the belt tension sonically that BRP provides their dealers. But, that's all it is... a measuring tool.

But... the two are not tied together, at least IMHO. You can measure the belt tension without the expensive BRP sonic device.

Just MHO. :thumbup:

:agree: Numbers are not the same with different tools and methods, though. Even my old Hondas from the sixties have hub rubbers. I'm not aware of a motorcycle made in the last 50 years without them, although I suppose it is possible. Harsh clutch engagement, though, that way. I think you just needed to change the adjustment a bit to cure the vibration.
-Scotty

 

[ataDude]

...Even my old Hondas from the sixties have hub rubbers. I'm not aware of a motorcycle made in the last 50 years without them, although I suppose it is possible...

BTW, the rubber dampeners on the Spyder are some of the best I've seen. Pretty stout! :thumbup:

How's the winter blahs, Scotty?

.

 

[NancysToy]

How's the winter blahs, Scotty?

Trying not to think about it. Home improvement time!
-Scotty

 

[LDFIREWORKS]

good info thanks:2thumbs:

 

[Putt-Putt]

Yepper... I got the GAP!

Loosen the axle nut, jack the bike up, run in third gear and adjust the gap (two Allen-head bolts visible from the back) while it's running. Tighten back up. Done. (compliments to Lamont <I think> from months back)

.

.

I'm going to try this. As I haven't riddin it for 2 months because of winter. But I noticed the other day that the belt has a gap of about 1/8 in. from the inside flange. That would be too much right? The dealer adjusted it last fall just before I put it up for the winter. I did notice that shortly after that I got the brake squeal. Which I never had before.
Are you supposed to have 225 to 250lbs on the seat when you do this? Kinda got that impression from the post here.