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Downshifting techniques, I need your advice on best technique?

Baveux

New member
I love my new RT. However, I find downshifting quite rough. When the Spyder does it itself, it's not bad, but when I order it, it seems to me that it's rough, it slams, it knocks, or I don't really know what; I would like to be able to have a buttery smooth downshift like on my previous bikes. Is this a particularity of the machine that we can only accept, or have you developed a particular technique? I tried with a little throttle blip just before, without, and it's not constant. Do you close the throttle or not? I would like to find the sweet spot. I only have 200 miles done, so I still have to discover things. 20 years of motorcycling is not much use for driving a Spyder, which I would not have ever thought I loved like that! :-)
 
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If I'm braking I let my Spyder do it's thing to downshift.
If I'm coasting along and not using the throttle, I'll downshift manually as the Spyder slows down.
 
Up or down shifting it works best with a constant throttle position. That can be all the way off the throttle if downshifting. Maintain the same throttle position when either up or down shifting. Or wide open if upshifting or downshifting for some quick additional power.

What it does not like is someone playing with the throttle during the process. The system is perfectly fine when IT can throttle match, work the clutch and shift with you only quickly pressing the paddle in the needed direction.
 
If I'm braking I let my Spyder do it's thing to downshift.
If I'm coasting along and not using the throttle, I'll downshift manually as the Spyder slows down.

But it’s still rough and a little noisy, isn’t it? Also, to overtake at high speed, let's say going from 6 to 4, do we close the throttle a little to change gear or do we just hit the switch twice for example? Maybe I'm thinking too much too :-) I parted ways with my Goldwing without regrets but the RT's powertrain is let's say a little more agricultural lol
 
Up or down shifting it works best with a constant throttle position. That can be all the way off the throttle if downshifting. Maintain the same throttle position when either up or down shifting. Or wide open if upshifting or downshifting for some quick additional power.

What it does not like is someone playing with the throttle during the process. The system is perfectly fine when IT can throttle match, work the clutch and shift with you only quickly pressing the paddle in the needed direction.

I'm overthinking.... as usual!
 
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Keep your throttle hand steady, do not try to speed match like on a regular 2-wheel clutch/gearbox system. the Computer will do all the throttle/gear matching for you with very little fuss. Even my old 2012 is fairly fuss free.
 
Is the 200 miles total miles, or just how many you rode since purchasing.

Simply, if that gearbox only has 200 miles on it, it needs another 3000 to be broken in.

Suggest, you upshift, let it downshift itself until broken in.

Best, smoothest downshifts are throttle closed completely, then tap the lever. This is for stops.

If you need a downshift under power, you will need to practice finding the sweet spot of rpm.
 
Is the 200 miles total miles, or just how many you rode since purchasing.

Simply, if that gearbox only has 200 miles on it, it needs another 3000 to be broken in.

Suggest, you upshift, let it downshift itself until broken in.

Best, smoothest downshifts are throttle closed completely, then tap the lever. This is for stops.

If you need a downshift under power, you will need to practice finding the sweet spot of rpm.


200 miles on a new machine . :-)
 
Myself, I would let the bike downshift by itself. But if you find yourself in the need to do it, let off the gas and hit the paddle, the bike will not make a bad shift, the computer wouldn't allow it. Matter of fact, if you get in a spot where you, say... try to shift and gas it when on an on-ramp, and you want to play, the Nanny will step in and tell you to behave - ask me how I know that! Good Luck, be safe, and have fun.
 
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Myself, I would let the bike downshift by itself. But if you find yourself in the need to do it, let off the gas and hit the paddle, the bike will not make a bad shift, the computer wouldn't allow it. Matter of fact, if you get in a spot where you, say... try to shift and gas it when on an on-ramp, and you want to play, the Nanny will step in and tell you to behave - ask me how I know that! Good Luck, be safe, and have fun.

I like your reference to a Nanny managing or supervising the bike. :) I realize that more and more, and it's not a bad thing! lol
 
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I agree with the gearbox break-in. I downshift mine every time. I use speed. Quick twist of throttle and then 50-55 go to 5th, 45-50 4th, 3rd at below 40, ect. Mine is seamless every time and I keep the rpms up just in case I need to do some emergency manuvere. Probably slightly decreasing the life of the paddle shifter but only had to replace the rear pads so far and the machine has over 47,000 miles on it.
 
I find my Spyder shifts the smoothest if I just shift and leave the throttle steady going either up or down. I do downshift myself to use engine braking.
 
I'm getting better at it. Today a ride of about 25 miles in twisties, up and downhill, the perfect road to hone my skills; and I let the Nanny do her thing! Like you all said, that's the way to go... but it's still harsh, gears seem to slam pretty hard sometimes... I'm gonna get used to it, I guess... I was following another Spyder for a few miles and it looks like that's how it is. :-)
 
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Most of the time I let the bike downshift. On occasion however there have been times I've downshifted manually, but it's rare.
 
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