Don't want to start trouble, but...

[RPM]

I've been looking through the threads in the ACE 1330 forum regarding oil for the 1330. It seems that many have put in full synthetic in their RTs and the manual states either synthetic blend or full synthetic. As I'm at 2000+ miles now and was at the dealer to ask what the upcoming 3000 mile service will cost (btw, $330+), he said they can put in Amsoil as that is the full synthetic they use for their other bikes. What is everyone going to do when it comes to oil. 9,300 miles seems like a lot of miles for the oil not to start to break down. Since Cam Am recommends it, I will be going with the full synthetic for better protection.

Thoughts?

Ryde safe!

Per the Operator's Guide:
"Recommended Engine OilThe same oil is used for the engine,gearbox, clutch, and the Hydraulic ControlModule (HCM) on the SE6 model.Use the XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH.BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293600 121) or a 5W-40 semi-synthetic(minimum) or synthetic motorcycleoil meeting the requirements for APIservice SL, SJ, SM, SN or higher classification.Always check the API servicelabel on the oil container."

 

[PMK]

There are some very good discussions with quality information already posted about this exact topic in the RT section. You may want to look there and see what the RT users have decided.

Myself, I have Mobil 1 10/40 motorcycle oil and a new BRP filter planned to be done in about 200 miles. We have a 2014 1330 RTs.

PK

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: Oil... :banghead:

Amsoil is a high quality product, that will be MORE than capable of keeping up it's end of the bargain... :thumbup:


But... there have been so many threads about this; a little bit of research could have saved us from another 4 or 5 page debate...

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

1330 OIL

I've read the OIL threads......I use Rotella T-6 10/40....Full Syn......it's about 1/2 the price of Amsoil @ Wallmart.......It exceeds all the BRP requirements for OIL in the 1330 engine so it meets Warranty requirements............I don't plan on going more than 5000 miles between Oil changes, I will leave the filter in.. But will change the oil, ......Mike :thumbup:

 

[Cruzr Joe]

I have stayed with the BRP oil, 26,000 miles and no problems, I change about every 7,000 miles


cruzr joe

 

[Chupaca]

Choices choices..!!

Meet or beat the manual specs, change oil as recommended or before. I use BRP semi synthetic don't go over 5,000 miles. If you search you will drown in oil posts...:roflblack::roflblack:

 

[bruiser]

I used Amsoil for awhile in my 2012 RTS SM5. Went back to the BRP oil just for convenience. Either one is suitable. Like others, I change my oil and filter at the 4,000 mile range.

 

[OJ UK]

FWIW....in the UK.

This post is a UK specific post.
In the UK synthetic oils for motorcycles are formulated differently to synthetic oils for cars. They use different friction additives.
If you use a car type oil in a machine with a wet clutch the additives can cause clutch slippage. Don't ask me how I know!
A set of clutch plates fitted is an expensive penalty.
Now you'd think that returning to a motorcycle oil would cure the problem but it doesn't. Once the plates have been exposed
to the additives present in a car oil they remain contaminated and must be replaced.
To my knowledge there are no cars that have a wet clutch. So a synthetic oil designed for a motorcycle engine is formulated with this fact in mind.
I have no idea what additives are present in an oil in the US but I would however think that they have at least similar properties.
Just my twopence worth!

 

[ARtraveler]

I use the OEM oil provided by the dealer. Oil change intervals as specified by BRP.

 

[Tom in NM]

Exactly!

. . . . synthetic oils for motorcycles are formulated differently to synthetic oils for cars. They use different friction additives.

. . . . . not just Synthetic oils, all oils. Lubricant oils are all formulated for the engine and transmissions that they service, cars, boats, trains, aircraft, tractors, ect. The additives are blended in to meet the requirements of each mechanical system.

Like RPM quoted from the manual " API service SL, SJ, SM, SN or higher classification. " If you follow that, you are good to go - otherwise, you can end up with the situation ( or something else ) that OJ describes. These are standards for additives set by the American Petroleum Institute. The Society Automotive Engineers ( SAE ) sets the standards for viscosity or weight - 5W-40 in this case.

Plain, Synthetic or a Blend of those? There are differences, but if the oil meets the SAE & API standards that BRP specifies, you are good to go.

Brand? Lots of people have very strong feelings about this. Sorry, that is marketing and feelings based on personal experience and observation - and we all know how flawless that type of analysis is. Most lubricant products are blended in refineries for their customers and packaged and branded for them. So, it is entirely possible that the Mobile or Amsoil oil you buy was not made or blended by them.

A good hunk of my career was in a refinery that also blended oils, greases, and waxes - with a few years spent in Lubricants Marketing. I am no expert, but I worked with lots of them.

Tom

 

[Rob Rodriguez]

This winter BRP stopped producing/selling synthetic blend oil for their 2-stroke snowmobiles. They now only offer 2-stroke mineral or full synthetic. I'm only making an assumption on this but I'm guessing their synthetic blend 4-stroke oil will be a thing of the past soon as well? So, might as well switch to full synthetic now.

 

[BikerDoc]

I have used the BRP blended synthetic through 3 9300 mile oil changes with no problem.. no oil used and the oil barely looks dirty. some folks are being conservative and changing more often but remember BRP always puts in a conservative factor of their own (remember how ridiculous the first 3000 mile changes were) My guess is if BRP says 9300 miles they really believe it would last 12000

 

[Dudley]

This is too technical for me, but for what it's worth.


http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Oil_Labelling_Explained

 

[Tom in NM]

Excellent!

This is too technical for me, but for what it's worth.
http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Oil_Labelling_Explained

I had not seen this before, but it is accurate and matches everything I learned working in the Oil Industry.

Thanks for posting it Dudley, it is a keeper for the inevitable future oil debates.

Tom

 

[PMK]

This post is a UK specific post.
In the UK synthetic oils for motorcycles are formulated differently to synthetic oils for cars. They use different friction additives.
If you use a car type oil in a machine with a wet clutch the additives can cause clutch slippage. Don't ask me how I know!
A set of clutch plates fitted is an expensive penalty.
Now you'd think that returning to a motorcycle oil would cure the problem but it doesn't. Once the plates have been exposed
to the additives present in a car oil they remain contaminated and must be replaced.
To my knowledge there are no cars that have a wet clutch. So a synthetic oil designed for a motorcycle engine is formulated with this fact in mind.
I have no idea what additives are present in an oil in the US but I would however think that they have at least similar properties.
Just my twopence worth!

Not sure what friction additives they use in the UK, but would suspect they are MolyD also. Moly is very slippery and attracts to heat. That is why it can ruin clutches.

Agree that the oil chosen must be moto type or rated to those specs to ensure no or minimal moly or other friction modifiers are added.

As for your previous clutch. Not sure what machine it was in, but if the useage was minimal the plates can often be cleaned and reinstalled. The Spyder with the automatic may be a bit more difficult but it can be on manual shift provided the clutch was not also fanned or abused. Most often the slippage will be slight and get progressively worse.

Some may remember the brand Maico. A friend for some reason assumed that gearbox oil for a two stroke and gear oil for a cars rear end were the same . Yes, he used Hypoid gear oil in his 1981 Maico 490 and went for a ride. After a bit of riding, he had almost no forward movement. I pulled the plates and washed them in solvent, ultimately ending in brake cleaner. We did our best to clean and flush while the side cover was removed. Put it all back together, added proper oil and ran it through the gears on the stand. Drained and reserviced the gearbox and no problems.

He was delighted, since a clutch for that vintage bike would have been pretty expensive.

So yes, ensure your oil is not labeled energy conserving.

PK

 

[Bob Denman]

If BikerDoc, and Cruzr Joe are happy with BRP's blend; who am I to argue with their results? :dontknow:
They log a lot of miles... :bowdown:

 

[grumpybob]

I use BRP oil for BRP products. The thing I do is change all my toy's oil every Spring. Don't like oil that has ben in a vehicle all winter, don't care how few miles I have on it. Peace of mind I guess.

 

[RPM]

Well, I really didn't want to start trouble but all of this is good info! I think I will definitely change my oil more often than 9300 miles. That being said, I saw a video that someone posted on an oil change for their 1330 RT. I'm sure it's basically the same but it would be nice if someone could post a detailed video on how to do it on the F3.

Has anyone bought a lift for their F3 yet? Which ones do you have? Where is it safe to place the lift?

Thanks everyone. Ryde safe.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OIL CHANGE F-3

Well, I really didn't want to start trouble but all of this is good info! I think I will definitely change my oil more often than 9300 miles. That being said, I saw a video that someone posted on an oil change for their 1330 RT. I'm sure it's basically the same but it would be nice if someone could post a detailed video on how to do it on the F3.

Has anyone bought a lift for their F3 yet? Which ones do you have? Where is it safe to place the lift?

Thanks everyone. Ryde safe.

Just a guess on this but I don't think they changed where the Oil Plugs or Filters for the 1330 Engine were changed from the RT to the F-3.....Mike :thumbup:

 

[MarkLawson]

There are some very good discussions with quality information already posted about this exact topic in the RT section. You may want to look there and see what the RT users have decided.

Myself, I have Mobil 1 10/40 motorcycle oil and a new BRP filter planned to be done in about 200 miles. We have a 2014 1330 RTs.

PK

In the early days of the forum, some folks reported clutch issues using the Mobil-1 motorcycle formula. I have used it in my Goldwing for many years (& continue), but have decided other folks' bad experience on their Spyders is sufficient cause for me to choose not to use it in my Spyders.