• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Doing It Myself

Yeochief

New member
I have been feasting after floorboards for my :ani29: practically from the day I got it, but money is always a problem when you are retired. I've seen some floorboards that others did themselves and they inspired me to get to it. This past Sunday, I took :f_spider: to a shop I rent for storage and some woodworking. Moved things around and got the :f_spider: inside. I borrowed a lift from a neighboring shop and determined the balance point so I can lift my machine when I get my own lift. Harbor Freight has their 1500 lb ATV lift on a coupon deal for $59.99 and I expect I'll pick one up next week.

I then stripped most of the tupperware off so I could remove the splash pans, I know Lamont has had his off forever, and if he's good with that, who am I to disagree. I pulled both pans left and right.Left Side Bare.jpgRight Side Bare.jpg

When I had the pans off, I began to see how I could mount floorboards without making major mods to :spyder2:. I knew I wanted to use the drivers pegs to support the tail of the floorboards and the back edge of the cross frame member to support the front. With all the tupperware out of the way, I got some cardboard and determined the approximate size of the boards I want. Then I cut a couple of 1/4" plywood mockups and tried them for fit.Right Side Test Fit.jpg

When I knew the size I wanted, I had to locate a supplier. Fortunately, there is still one business in my town that stocks and fabricates custom metal products. I discussed my plans and determined certain limitations about working with aluminum diamond plate. My initial idea was to bend the rear of the floorboard and attach it to the foot pegs with bolts through holes I would need to drill in the foot pegs. The fabricator had indicated that there were issues with getting those bends. Back at the shop, I was looking at the foot pegs, and realized there were two holes in the pegs already. By using those holes, I simplified the boards to a 21" by 5" rectangle with a turned up lip on the long edges. This morning, I had them made out of 1/8" diamond plate, cost $52 + change had them in about 30 minutes.

The right side doesn't require any cutting, just three holes drilled to accept the mounting bolts. View attachment 37530

The left side needed to have a corner removed to sit the way I wanted it to. I used my mockup to mark the diamond plate and sawed away. After removing some additional, I am happy with the fit.

There is a bunch of finishing to do before the boards get final mount.

Wednesday 30 Nov 2011: Went to Ace Hardware for stainless steel machine screws to use when mounting the new boards. Those babies are pricey :yikes: $10.53 for the pieces I needed fit in one of those little paper bags Ace uses for screws and such lots of room. Back at the shop I located and drilled the required holes in the boards and used a 1/4 " drill to drill the rubber peg pads where the screws go. Also cut four pieces of 1/2 " PVC to use as spacer. Am still looking for suitable metal to use. I decided to use two 1/4 20 screws for each post with a connecter in the middle flat head on top and pan head on bottom. I think it makes a cleaner job. Put a 5/16 pan head screw through the frame hole to hold the front of the board. It took some futzing, but I got all four posts connected. Right Side 1st Install.jpgLeft Side 1st Install.jpg now I can locate and cut notches in the lower body panels.

Then it all comes apart for finish and polish and final assembly. Since I live in Florida, every day in the shop is a day not riding, but this has been satisfying so far.
 
Last edited:
spyder15.jpgLooks good and simple as well. My solution to mounting was a little
more complicated. Good luck with your mods
 
floor boards

i removed the rubber pad from my brake pedal, which basically '' lowers '' it about 3/8 or 1/2 inch. now i can brake with my heel when my feet are flat on the boards. works pretty good.:thumbup:
 
Finished doing it myself

Finished the installation yesterday evening just as it was getting dark.

Pulled :spyder2: out and found a place to take a couple of pictures of the finished job.

Left Side.jpg Right Side Done.jpg

I'm happy! :yes:
 
Added California Scientific Windscreen

After much research and penny pinching, I decided to replace the stock wind shield with a taller after market one. I finally decided on a California Scientific. Their website gave very good instructions on determining what height wind shield I might prefer. Using their guidance, I determined that I wanted a screen 12 inches taller than the stock screen. Ordered it on line, and it was shipped within 24 hours. Arrived via UPS ground yesterday and installed this morning. Went for a ride and I am a happy :2thumbs::spyder2: ryder.

New Windscreen.jpg
 
New "old" Seat

I had my OEM seat reworked by a friend who does motorcycle seats. New Seat.jpg She added a gel pad and covered the seat in full grain real leather.
Her son designed the sitching. Seat Stiching.jpg This is on the back of the passenger part of the seat Spider.jpg
I wanted a way to get to the fuel filler without lifting the seat. This is what we came up with Gas Door.jpg You can see it in the first picture. Fuelling is not a problem, and there was no lost padding.
 
Back
Top