• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Does this Belt Tensioner Idler Stabilizer Roller look familiar? Are any parts (Rollers) interchangeable??

I just replaced the BRP belt tensioner on my 2015 F3S with the superior LaMonster one. I could feel a big difference in the spring tension of the LaMonster one vs the BRP seemed light pull and stiff to keep tension, it also didn't appear to track correctly. I did replace the pulley itself with the one Lamont sells but looking at it, appears to be wearing strange. I'll see how LaMonsters works after a few miles. Everything I purchased from LaMonster Garage has been of top notch quality!

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cmarsala said:
I just replaced the BRP belt tensioner on my 2015 F3S with the superior LaMonster one. I could feel a big difference in the spring tension of the LaMonster one vs the BRP seemed light pull and stiff to keep tension, it also didn't appear to track correctly. I did replace the pulley itself with the one Lamont sells but looking at it, appears to be wearing strange. I'll see how LaMonsters works after a few miles. Everything I purchased from LaMonster Garage has been of top notch quality!

View attachment 256579 - View attachment 256580 - View attachment 256581
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Looks like you have a pebble sticking out the top surface of your belt.
 
Mikey said:
There has been more than one OEM arm snap, being a plastic piece of crap, so if you think you need the unit, I would save up and get one from Lamont, arm and roller together in one happy package!! Or maybe try to take it off and see if you can live without it, that's what I am planning on doing! I didn't have one on my 2012 and I believe I can live without one on my 2025.
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Being on the cheap may cost you big bucks later should the plastic BRP crapploa arm snap and tear your belt up, maybe even stranding you!
 
cmarsala said:
Being on the cheap may cost you big bucks later should the plastic BRP crapploa arm snap and tear your belt up, maybe even stranding you!
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Totally on the same page there, that's why I am plaining on trying to live without it, it worked on my 2012 and hope to do the same with my 2025.
 
When Can Am came out with a tensioner for the F3, I put one on our 2014RTL. It lasted about 12,000 miles before it started to whine. I pulled it off. Didn't put one back on.
When we purchased the 2021 Sea to Sky for my wife, it came with a factory tensioner. At 60,000 miles her Spyder was making a noise that I thought might be the tensioner, so I pulled it off. Turned out the noise was from something rubbing the back tire. At 60,000 miles that OEM tensioner was still in great shape. My wife wanted the tensioner put back on as she felt the difference when it was removed. I decided for less than $40 to put a new OEM unit on. Now at 84,000 miles, the OEM tensioner is still doing great.
I'm sure the Lamonster one is of higher quality, but for me the OEM unit is doing its job.
 
An old bloke, well, a bloke older than me, 75, asked me fit a new rear tyre to his F3. I've done a few on my old GS and for other owners around town using a 205/55-15, which is the same diameter as the stock tyre and about a quarter the price of the OEM Kenda. Anywho, when checking out the bits and pieces yesdy before reassembling, I thought to check that belt roller, it having done about 70,000km. Well. it was a bit wobbly (technical term) so I removed it and replaced it with the a PUX524 roller, which needed a 13x17mm bronze bush to fit over the 12.5mm mounting lug on the tensioner arm. I used a HC27 hose fitting which has 17mm OD on the barb and 12mm ID, which meant I had to drill the fitting out to 1/2" and cut the barb fitting to a length to fit inside the roller bearing, add a couple of 1/2" flat washers either side to position it correctly on the arm, and clamp the inner race of the bearing.


belt idler.jpg - roller.jpg

The bearing in the stock roller is a 606 replaceable bearing for anyone interested.
 
It's always struck me that the tensioning roller is quite small in Ø which would mean it would be running at quite high rpm's. I did some rough calculations & came up with around 4,500 rpm @ 60kph (36mph). This goes up to 9,000rpm @ 120kph (75mph). I understand it's fairly lightly loaded, but that's a lot of rpm's for a tiny bearing to do in a less-than-ideal operating environment. Is there a good reason why the tensioner rollers are so small ? If the roller could be just 50% larger in Ø it would drop the rpm's by 33% at any speed and allow for a more robust bearing. Just curious.... :)
 
Is there a good reason why the tensioner rollers are so small? Yes - cheap!

The PUX524 roller is 76MM OD and has a 6203 bearing. Work that out for rpm. 😁
 
Freddy said:
Is there a good reason why the tensioner rollers are so small? Yes - cheap!

The PUX524 roller is 76MM OD and has a 6203 bearing. Work that out for rpm. 😁
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Now we are talking! 2420rpm @ 60kph, 4840rpm @ 120kph... much more civilised & well within the 6203's (with seals) rpm limit of 12,000. Great work Freddy. :)
 
I have the solution to the whole issue, take it off and you won't have to worry about it! That vibration dampener is there to take some of the vibration out of your ride! If you have ever taken a ride on an old Harley back in the day, then you know what VIBRATION really is, and we are getting soft in our old age!! ;)
 
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