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Dielectric Grease......

Latemarch

New member
A few years back when I still owned a Jeep, one of the things that I did is waterproof the electrical system. Actually more like splashproof. The process consisted of using liquid electrical tape Amazon.com: Plastic Dip Intl. LET14Z01 Liquid Electrical Tape: Home Improvement
on the outside of each loom connector (this seals the spot where the wire enters the connector) and a squirt of dielectric grease in each connector to keep water out of the system.

Now I have no idea whether or not this was really a good idea or not, just that other Jeep owners suggested it, and I never had an electrical failure after fording streams.

But seeing as the Can-Buss system is sensitive to noise and corrosion or that water in the system could lead to failure this might be a point of concern.

Any downside to this process? :dontknow:
 
I have thought about this a lot lately, too. For those that aren't familiar, dielectric grease is a non-conductive lubricant that is used to repel water in electrical connections, prevent corrosion, and keep rubber parts like spark plug boots from sticking. It actually tends to enhance electrical conductivity across a contact joint, due to the prevention of oxidation and corrosion, which increase electrical resistance. It is often used on trailer plugs to prevent corrosion, repel water, and make them more reliable. It is essential when using dielectric grease that there be good, solid, physical contact between parts. If applied improperly or excessively, or to a loose joint, the grease can actually inhibit a good connection.

I am hesitant to use the dielectric grease on electronic connections. It takes very little interference with an electronic signal to screw up the CANBUS. If applied to a connector, I would use it very sparingly, or only on the rubber boot, not the connectors themselves. My preference would be to use liquid electrical tape, such as Dip-It, on the outside of the connectors to waterproof them. The use of the dielectric grease may be OK, but I'll leave it to someone else to experiment. It is extremely difficult to remove once applied.
 
Lamont and I were talking about this just the other day (since his steering issues). It could well be that moisture/corrosion is the culprit, but we don't know yet.

It certainly would be worth a try. Especially if you have to get into the connection anyway.
 
I have thought about this a lot lately, too. For those that aren't familiar, dielectric grease is a non-conductive lubricant that is used to repel water in electrical connections, prevent corrosion, and keep rubber parts like spark plug boots from sticking. It actually tends to enhance electrical conductivity across a contact joint, due to the prevention of oxidation and corrosion, which increase electrical resistance. It is often used on trailer plugs to prevent corrosion, repel water, and make them more reliable. It is essential when using dielectric grease that there be good, solid, physical contact between parts. If applied improperly or excessively, or to a loose joint, the grease can actually inhibit a good connection.

I am hesitant to use the dielectric grease on electronic connections. It takes very little interference with an electronic signal to screw up the CANBUS. If applied to a connector, I would use it very sparingly, or only on the rubber boot, not the connectors themselves. My preference would be to use liquid electrical tape, such as Dip-It, on the outside of the connectors to waterproof them. The use of the dielectric grease may be OK, but I'll leave it to someone else to experiment. It is extremely difficult to remove once applied.
As usual your advice is solid Scotty. I once used dielectric grease on a tractor connection, and it blocked any current. And yes, was it a pain to clean back out of the female side of the connector.
 
I used liquid tape and...

dielectric grease on my fishing boat applications which I used in salt water. It seemed to work well for this application. I also used it on Navy ship jointed radio antenna mast and it work ok but not as good there. It worked best on the threaded masts joints. The base plate joints were about 10 inches in diameter. We used the dielectric grease on these and it helped some but the exposure was of a nature it did not work as well. With waves rolling over the main deck and heavy salt spray nothing is a 100 percent.
 
Thanks guys, good advice all around.

I think I'll stick to the liquid electrical tape on all connections and the dielectric grease on only the electrical and not the computer connections.

Sunny weather tomorrow so I'll ride and then more rain expected so Spyder maintainence to follow.:ohyea:
 
I have thought about this a lot lately, too. For those that aren't familiar, dielectric grease is a non-conductive lubricant that is used to repel water in electrical connections, prevent corrosion, and keep rubber parts like spark plug boots from sticking. It actually tends to enhance electrical conductivity across a contact joint, due to the prevention of oxidation and corrosion, which increase electrical resistance. It is often used on trailer plugs to prevent corrosion, repel water, and make them more reliable. It is essential when using dielectric grease that there be good, solid, physical contact between parts. If applied improperly or excessively, or to a loose joint, the grease can actually inhibit a good connection.

I am hesitant to use the dielectric grease on electronic connections. It takes very little interference with an electronic signal to screw up the CANBUS. If applied to a connector, I would use it very sparingly, or only on the rubber boot, not the connectors themselves. My preference would be to use liquid electrical tape, such as Dip-It, on the outside of the connectors to waterproof them. The use of the dielectric grease may be OK, but I'll leave it to someone else to experiment. It is extremely difficult to remove once applied.

:agree: Not a best practice for the internal electric components IMHO.

I did use dielectric grease on the switch contacts for my heated grips. On our ride to Gatlinburg it was chilly the morning we left and the grips wouldn't heat. When I disconnected the switch and scratched the contacts they burst into life; obviously an oxidation problem. So, a light application to the contacts should prevent any more trouble, I hope.
 
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