Magic Man
Registered User
We have had some people ask about the "cutting of the stock bars" when installing our riser kit. We have also seen some of those "experts on everything" type people trying to "throw stones" at this design in other places.
So, here's the skinny straight from the guy who designed them.
Yes, you cut the stock handle bars when installing the NMN riser kit. However, as a replacement set of stock bars is easily purchased, and for a very reasonable price, (since they are nothing but standard steel bars under the cover). This is not a huge or irreversible thing to do to your Spyder.
I have seen many other mods out there that have you drilling holes or doing other things to other more expensive parts to install those mods, and people line up to do them as well.
The relatively low cost to buy a new set of "stock bars" is nothing to be "afraid" of should you wish to revert to a "stock" set up someday. But I'm not sure why you'd want to anyway? :dontknow:
Other riser kits out there have you removing the stock bars to install those kits anyway, and in as much if you wish to revert to "stock" with that set up you will have to re-install a set of "stock bars" back on your Spyder to do so with that set up as well. With the labor to revert to "stock" being the same in ether case.
However, with no need to go through that labor the first time with our set up, and the cost savings of our kit to start with. This labor and cost savings will allow for purchase of a set of "stock" replacement bars at a later date. So, you are no further behind in any case.
Another cool thing about this design is you can install them without cutting your bars to try!
You can install the risers and swap over the controls and leave the stock bars alone and even go for a ride to see if things are as you wish. Then once you have tried them, then cut the bars as the stock bars will not interfeer with the proper operation of this set up for you to try and ride. The only real reason they are cut is for aesthetics so you don't have 8 inches of unused bar sticking out below your new bars.
Some people have asked about the lower clamp moving on the stock bars....
This type of split half moon clamping set up onto the stock bars is how handle bars are clamped on motorcycles in the first place, and is how snowmobile racers that use huge 12 inch risers over some of the worst conditions you could ever imagine hold the bars in place as well.
This style clamp when tight does not move! You can be sure the bumps and jolts these racers go through is 10 times worse than anything a Spyder will ever see. This is also how those huge ape hanger type bars Harley's use are clamped into place with all the leverage of plus 20 inch bars and yet they do not move there ether.
The 3 or 4 inch riser we use will never have enough leverage to move these clamps when tight. There just not enough leverage or force to be able to do so.
These bolts when properly tightened down have no more of a chance than the bolts that clamp the half moon clamp which holds the stock bars onto the Spyder in the center do in the first place. So "vibration making these come loose just won't happen any more here than on the stock bar clamp location under your center concole holding the stock bars onto your Spyder have now.
I hope this has helped answer some of your questions about this set up and how and why it works. :thumbup:
MM
So, here's the skinny straight from the guy who designed them.
Yes, you cut the stock handle bars when installing the NMN riser kit. However, as a replacement set of stock bars is easily purchased, and for a very reasonable price, (since they are nothing but standard steel bars under the cover). This is not a huge or irreversible thing to do to your Spyder.
I have seen many other mods out there that have you drilling holes or doing other things to other more expensive parts to install those mods, and people line up to do them as well.
The relatively low cost to buy a new set of "stock bars" is nothing to be "afraid" of should you wish to revert to a "stock" set up someday. But I'm not sure why you'd want to anyway? :dontknow:
Other riser kits out there have you removing the stock bars to install those kits anyway, and in as much if you wish to revert to "stock" with that set up you will have to re-install a set of "stock bars" back on your Spyder to do so with that set up as well. With the labor to revert to "stock" being the same in ether case.
However, with no need to go through that labor the first time with our set up, and the cost savings of our kit to start with. This labor and cost savings will allow for purchase of a set of "stock" replacement bars at a later date. So, you are no further behind in any case.
Another cool thing about this design is you can install them without cutting your bars to try!
You can install the risers and swap over the controls and leave the stock bars alone and even go for a ride to see if things are as you wish. Then once you have tried them, then cut the bars as the stock bars will not interfeer with the proper operation of this set up for you to try and ride. The only real reason they are cut is for aesthetics so you don't have 8 inches of unused bar sticking out below your new bars.
Some people have asked about the lower clamp moving on the stock bars....
This type of split half moon clamping set up onto the stock bars is how handle bars are clamped on motorcycles in the first place, and is how snowmobile racers that use huge 12 inch risers over some of the worst conditions you could ever imagine hold the bars in place as well.
This style clamp when tight does not move! You can be sure the bumps and jolts these racers go through is 10 times worse than anything a Spyder will ever see. This is also how those huge ape hanger type bars Harley's use are clamped into place with all the leverage of plus 20 inch bars and yet they do not move there ether.
The 3 or 4 inch riser we use will never have enough leverage to move these clamps when tight. There just not enough leverage or force to be able to do so.
These bolts when properly tightened down have no more of a chance than the bolts that clamp the half moon clamp which holds the stock bars onto the Spyder in the center do in the first place. So "vibration making these come loose just won't happen any more here than on the stock bar clamp location under your center concole holding the stock bars onto your Spyder have now.
I hope this has helped answer some of your questions about this set up and how and why it works. :thumbup:
MM
I'm pretty happy with the stock bars with the BRP 1" riser but the mention of the reduced vibration in another post has me thinking about these now. I'll try them out when dltang gets hers and we install them.
