• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Control Arm (A Arm) bushings

mavrik

New member
Hey all, last night will I was doing a little clean up on the spyder I noticed the front right fender that goes over the front right tire was moving. I traced it back and it is the upper control arm rear bushing. This is very surprising to see, seeing that the bike has 5k on it. Has anyone replaced these? do I need to take the front end off? I don't believe so but I was annoyed about it last night so I didn't go digging into just yet, were there issues with these or were they upgraded in 2014? like I said very surprising, the bolt was tight enough but there was still very obvious movement in and out.
 
bike is too old I believe...it is a 2013. I have not read much on them going bad or that they were improved for 2014. Anyone read anything about that or have done these? The top control arm rear I think I will be able to get off but the front looks like they have the bolt going in the wrong way and either the frunk has to be taken off or bolt cut....HOW DUMB! how the hell can control arm bushing be bad in 4k, crazy stuff! the bushing which is just a sleave is 12 bucks a piece which is a total rip off for a bolt sleeve that is 1.5 inches long.
 
I posted a very similar problem with mine a couple weeks ago, nobody responded that they had done it themselves. I have 27k miles on mine.

Joe
 
A Arm Bushings

I replied on the other thread. It is very easy to replace the bushings. Jack up the Spyder to get the wheels just off the floor. Do one A arm at a time, remove the bolts(15mm). You pull the metal spacer out and pop out the plactic bushings( they are half bushings). New ones are about $14.00 each. You will 16 to do all 4 A arms. You will need to drop one bolt out of the shock also. Prts break down here.http://www.can-ambrpparts.com/oemparts/a/cam/51630ed3f870021a24861296/suspension-front I have just got done rebuilding a 2013 crash project with full frame replacement. Did bushing after assembly as they weren't in yet.
 
spyderjerry, quick question...is it the metal sleeve or the two rubber spacers that go bad...the spacers are 2 bucks each the metal sleeve is 14. sorry but I thought you said the rubber spacers were 14....just trying to clarify to see what I need to order. the front 15mm can't pull out without hitting the frunk...hope I don't have to cut that one and then just put the new one in the other way.
 
The Frunk

is very easy to remove, just 6 bolts and some electrical plugs to disconnect. This opens up the entire front end and makes access to things much easier. This is also a good time to wrap the exhaust headers as they are very exposed.



spyderjerry, quick question...is it the metal sleeve or the two rubber spacers that go bad...the spacers are 2 bucks each the metal sleeve is 14. sorry but I thought you said the rubber spacers were 14....just trying to clarify to see what I need to order. the front 15mm can't pull out without hitting the frunk...hope I don't have to cut that one and then just put the new one in the other way.
 
I learned that these bushings need to be greased often. I use a grease gun on the dirk fittings and check them when I do an oil change.
 
I learned that these bushings need to be greased often. I use a grease gun on the dirk fittings and check them when I do an oil change.

Sorry Flamewinger, I hadta laugh at the thought of getting in there to fix things with a dirk, and I'm really not just being picky; I'm happy to accept that it could well just be a typo or auto-correct issue, but I hafta say it....

A DIRK fitting is something fitted to a small knife; while a ZERK fitting lets you grease a bush or ball joint! :thumbup:

I don't think any of the Spyders came with Zerks on the 'A' arms from the factory after 2013.... :(
 
There are four zirk fittings on each side where the A arms mount to the frame. (I did mean zirk/zerk not dirk) I had to get an L nozzle for the rear ones.

This is one of the grease points on my 2013 ST.
F4F8E321-15A4-4464-9E50-F48E15DABB4A.jpg


(this is is a zirk/zerk fitting)
6242BB6B-34FF-46B5-8555-BDF17F47742E.jpeg
 
Last edited:
well looks like the control arm bushings...will have to be done...tightened them up hoping that would cure all because they were loose BUT a few miles (ok few thousand) they are both moving when I brake. SOOO bushings and sleeves order...will get into it ...oh fun!
 
Back
Top