Check engine light on startup

[Bike-O-Din]

The last several (6 or 7) times that I have tried to start my 2011 RT-S, it starts rignt up, but goes immediately to the "Check Engine" mode. It runs terrible and even backfires occasionally. This is only for the initial start up from the garage/driveway. I shut it down, walk away with the key for a few minutes, and then return and it will start fine and then run all day, even with several stops and starts during the time I am out. Put it away for the night, and the same thing happens the next time I start it from completely cold.

I have plenty of power to run the starter, so it does not seem to be battery related. I have removed all of the relays, cleaned the connections and returned them confirming they are tight in the sockets. (But if it was a loose relay, I suspect that it would not start on the 2nd try??) It is now due for the 3000 mile service, but I wanted to get some input from this knowledgeable group just to be sure the dealer does not try to give me a snow job as a Christmas present.

Thanks in advance.

 

[NancysToy]

Are there any fault codes? (MODE, SET & Turn Signal Cancel pushed simultaneously). BTW, it won't hurt to charge the battery. Sometimes it will spin the starter, but have too low a voltage to please Miss Nanny. Get us the fault codes or more information, and perhaps we can point you in the right direction, but the best way to find the problem is to visit your dealer. BTW, sounds a lot like bad gas. Adding some fuel stabilizer and topping off the tank wouldn't hurt.

 

[Dudley]

Are there any fault codes? (MODE, SET & Turn Signal Cancel pushed simultaneously). BTW, it won't hurt to charge the battery. Sometimes it will spin the starter, but have too low a voltage to please Miss Nanny. Get us the fault codes or more information, and perhaps we can point you in the right direction, but the best way to find the problem is to visit your dealer. BTW, sounds a lot like bad gas. Adding some fuel stabilizer and topping off the tank wouldn't hurt.

I am going to go with P0524. Or P1614.

 

[Bike-O-Din]

P1614 - It's The Throttle Body

OK, now I get it. Did the code thing and got P1614. Research shows many comments about this on the forum. Needs throttle body attention/reset/replacement/adjustment or something. Others have discovered it works the same as mine - sometimes it starts OK and other times it does not.

I will take it to the dealer next week for the 3000 mile service, side panel update, and hopefully rectify this P1614 problem.

My thanks and condolences to all who have suffered before me to provide all of this good information.

Happy Holidays to everyone.

 

[captblack]

Be sure they do the BUDS update when you get your service. I had the same problem when the weather cooled down and the update fixed the issue.

 

[Farmboy]

I have had the throttle replaced on my 2010 rt and now mine will do the same thing as yours....only if I blip the throttle. If I let it run for at least min. when cold, she will run fine. Do not know why.

 

[NancysToy]

You will need a new throttle body. You might want to contact the dealer ahead of time, so they can order the part. If you explain the code, they should be willing, although some have tried (unsuccessfully) to just reset the fault codes and install the throttle body update. The service bulletin calls for the throttle body to be replaced if code P1614 is present in the memory.

 

[Bike-O-Din]

The more input the merrier

Thanks for the input on this. I just bought some base layer clothing for me and the wife. Also got her a Gerbing heated jacket and gloves. All of this was so we could spend some time ryding around in the colder weather around the Christmas Holiday.

Perhaps with the Spyder going to the shop and Holiday shipping times/delays we may just have to open all the doors and windows at home and wear the new gear around the house with jumper cables connected to the car for power!

Makes me feel a bit like this:

 

[MouthPiece]

Thanks for the input on this. I just bought some base layer clothing for me and the wife. Also got her a Gerbing heated jacket and gloves. All of this was so we could spend some time ryding around in the colder weather around the Christmas Holiday.

Perhaps with the Spyder going to the shop and Holiday shipping times/delays we may just have to open all the doors and windows at home and wear the new gear around the house with jumper cables connected to the car for power!

Makes me feel a bit like this:

View attachment 58655

I just love your sense of humor. Especially when it's a frustrating problem. Thanks for putting a smile on my face.

Chris

 

[Bob Denman]

I feel your pain... :shocked:
The throttle body issue doesn't "kill" the bike; but it can make running it kind of miserable. I limped mine along with it popping up every so often for about 8 months before I broke down and got it to the dealer.
Farmboy is right; sometimes the bike will clear it's throat and start to function normally even with this happening...

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

Mine just through a P1614 today along with the check engine light, misfires and backfires, so I guess I'm in for a new TB. How likely is the TB to go bad again and does the replacement take care of the 2010 hot start issue?

 

[NancysToy]

Mine just through a P1614 today along with the check engine light, misfires and backfires, so I guess I'm in for a new TB. How likely is the TB to go bad again and does the replacement take care of the 2010 hot start issue?

The 2010 TB failures are different than those for the 2011...and they are rarer. Sorry to hear you have to deal with it again. A few folks have, although most have had no trouble. Hopefully this time will be the cure. Unfortunately, for some reason the 2010s cannot be updated to prevent the hot restart issue. It will remain after you replace the throttle body. Not sure if the latest BUDS update will help lessen it, either.

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

I tried it again a second time and had the same issue as the first. It fired up an ran perfectly on the third try and when I looked for the code again, nothing! I figured the code would at least remain in memory!

So Scotty, are the 2010 TBs totally different from the other years or is it the software that differs?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[NancysToy]

I tried it again a second time and had the same issue as the first. It fired up an ran perfectly on the third try and when I looked for the code again, nothing! I figured the code would at least remain in memory!

So Scotty, are the 2010 TBs totally different from the other years or is it the software that differs?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

The codes do remain in memory, but the dealer has to pull them out with BUDS. Only currently active codes are displayed. I don't know if the throttle bodies differ, but the programming (and maybe the ECM) does. Get to your dealer ASAP. Once the throttle bodies do this, they are headed to complete failure. Yours is on borrowed time, and may not reset the next time. As you have seen, multiple tries is sometimes the short term answer.