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Check DPS orange light with handlebars

JRWW

New member
I have a 2010 RTS SE5 that has been sitting idle for about 3 months with a C Tek charger attached. Have removed front wheels and had new tyres fitted then removed rear wheel and had tyre fitted. Also drained coolant and replaced, during this time the key has not been in the ignition or had it turned on.

So went to start and it was showing in 1st gear with message in orange " Check DPS" with the handlebar symbol and would not start. So with a 13mm spanner put the bike back into neutral and the bike started.

Looked at Spydercodes and Check DPS has check battery connections. The battery connections are tight and I can't think of anything else.

Check codes and PO552 & PO551 came up on screen,
Spydercodes says Torque sensor shorted or Torque sensor open

Anyone have a suggestion or ideas?


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YOUR ISSUE

I don't EVER leave my SE trans IN_GEAR when I shut it off......... I have had problems re-starting because it wouldn't change into NEUTRAL electronically, the way it's supposed to. So I think it's possible something similar happened to you, and even the maintainer couldn't cope with the parasitic drain..... I don't know how old your Battery is but this may be an issue also.........PS my issue started on my way home from Illinois' right after buying my Spyder, I don't think the Battery was properly set-up before I bought it from the dealer. ................Mike :thumbup:
 
I have a 2010 RTS SE5 that has been sitting idle for about 3 months with a C Tek charger attached. Have removed front wheels and had new tyres fitted then removed rear wheel and had tyre fitted. Also drained coolant and replaced, during this time the key has not been in the ignition or had it turned on.

So went to start and it was showing in 1st gear with message in orange " Check DPS" with the handlebar symbol and would not start. So with a 13mm spanner put the bike back into neutral and the bike started.

Looked at Spydercodes and Check DPS has check battery connections. The battery connections are tight and I can't think of anything else.

Check codes and PO552 & PO551 came up on screen,
Spydercodes says Torque sensor shorted or Torque sensor open

Anyone have a suggestion or ideas?


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There was no need to manually shift into neutral with a wrench. The Spyder will start in any gear. The only extra step is to apply the brake. So you must have forgot to do this or your brake lights don't work.

Sorry but there is no fix for a failed torque sensor except replacement of the DPS.
 
Curious. ....

Having gotten the spyder started, did you ryde it..? do you feel the dps is not working..? You can get this message if the battery is below the minimum for the dps to function. It does take a big drain on the battery. When checking the connections it is best to loosen them and move them around before tightening again. Also check ground connections to the frame. You may have to take her in and have her checked futher....:banghead:
 
I don't EVER leave my SE trans IN_GEAR when I shut it off......... I have had problems re-starting because it wouldn't change into NEUTRAL electronically, the way it's supposed to.

There should never be any problem leaving it in gear. If there is, tell BRP to fix it. The bottom line is the Spyder will start in any gear with your foot on the brake. Even if there is something wrong with the transmission or HCM and it can't shift. The engine will start.
 
Ok thankyou everyone for your responses.
I'll answer all the questions you have.

I don't remember leaving the bike in 1st when I shut it off, not sure when I was re installing the back wheel walking the belt back on that it may have somehow gone into 1st

Will check brake lights as I remember the foot on pedal to start didn't work.

I haven't ridden the bike yet as I still need to align the rear wheel and belt etc.

I noticed the earth lead from the frame that the ground of the DPS is attached also has another earth lead running to the top bolt of the radiator, the wire into the crimped circular fitting is slightly damaged. Will cut it off and fit another. Maybe clutching at straws here as it has a good earth from ground of the DPS to the frame within a very short distance.

New DPS fitted 6 years ago, not sure. Have recall letter and I remember dealer telling me it had been replaced prior to purchasing. How do I know if it was replaced?
Plan on calling another dealer today and giving my VIN number to see if in fact it was done.

If it was replaced what is the life expectancy of the DPS, I have only done 16,500 ks (bit over 10,000 miles)

Do they fail on a regular basis?

I will fix the earth fitting, check the brake lights and try starting again to see if the dreaded DPS orange light appears.

Any other suggestions???


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Ok an update, fixed the earth fitting, tighten the bolt a little on the frame close to the ground wire of the DPS, brake lights work. However still have the orange light DPS and the steering is heavy without riding.
Still waiting to hear back on whether the DPS was replaced.


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Good luck with it - hope you hear back soon about the DPS, and that it's something cheap/easy. We're all presuming you've done the "key walk"?
 
The DPS torque sensor is inside the DPS unit. Since I have not heard of anyone rebuilding these units it's time for a new one.

The previous recall on the DPS did not involve a failure of the torque sensor. So does not match your symptoms. It was not really technically explained what was wrong with them, but the symptoms where that they would suddenly steer in a different direction without operator input.
 
Good luck with it - hope you hear back soon about the DPS, and that it's something cheap/easy. We're all presuming you've done the "key walk"?

The magical key walk is a myth. A very popular one but still a myth. Turning the ignition switch off for 30 seconds may change the status of some faults from active to occurred. So that is worth a try. But you do not need to remove the key.
 
RT

Pull your fuses and reinstall them in the front trunk.




The magical key walk is a myth. A very popular one but still a myth. Turning the ignition switch off for 30 seconds may change the status of some faults from active to occurred. So that is worth a try. But you do not need to remove the key.
 
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