• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

1330cc Changing Filters - need to learn how it's done... Any assistance?

Badgeman

New member
Good Day,

I've been asked to service my spouse's 2014 Spyder RT Limited since the local CanAm dealer can't be bothered to sevice a motocycle that old. Since I've never done it myself I had to learn how it's done since I will eventually have to take care of mine next Spring.

I've researched the process of removing all of the "Tupperware" and draining, replacing filters, plugs, etc. I've seen them fill the oil reservoir with 5.9qts of oil, but did not see (or maybe my old brain shut down) any addition of transimission fluid. Is it possible that the CanAm uses the oil for both the engine and the hydraulic transmission?

Any constructive assistance would be appreciated.

Cheers,


Badgeman
2007 Kawasaki Nomad 1600
2020 Spyder F3T
 
You are way better off doing your own service, in many cases. And the premise is ridiculous since there have been absolutely no changes in an oil service for the 1330 engine since its inception (2014). But reason is not necessarily an attribute of all dealerships, these days.

Virtually all motorcycles and off road vehicles use an engine/transmission that share the same oil. Older Harleys using 1930's technology and some older European bikes used separate gear boxes. but most of those have gone away.

So, you are on the right track. Be sure to use a JASO MA2 rated engine oil. Full synthetic is worth the few extra pennies over a blended oil.

Checking the oil level is the most critical part of the operation. You need to ride the Spyder for about 5 miles and then check the level. You need to change the HCM filter every 28,000 miles.
 
Last edited:
Yep. Engine and transmission served by the same oil just like your Kawasaki. Same type of engine\transmission unit only difference is the way the clutch mechanism is activated.
 
Being a 2014 also a chance can be the V twin ** same oil different filters, capacity, drain plugs ** , just be aware & verify before too far along.
 
You are way better off doing your own service, in many cases. And the premise is ridiculous since there have been absolutely no changes in an oil service for the 1330 engine since its inception (2014). But reason is not necessarily an attribute of all dealerships, these days.

Virtually all motorcycles and off road vehicles use an engine/transmission that share the same oil. Older Harleys using 1930's technology and some older European bikes used separate gear boxes. but most of those have gone away.

So, you are on the right track. Be sure to use a JASO MA2 rated engine oil. Full synthetic is worth the few extra pennies over a blended oil.

Checking the oil level is the most critical part of the operation. You need to ride the Spyder for about 5 miles and then check the level. You need to change the HCM filter every 28,000 miles.

:agree: ..... However, I ONLY put in 5 Qts, and ONLY add more AFTER I check the oil level AFTER the engine is fully warmed up (at least 15 mins of riding it) .... Now the only time I check the level is after a normal day's ride, then it's guaranteed to be at the correct Temp .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Badgeman -- First step is to purchase an electronic service manual. ROI is tremendous. The 1330cc motor is a great piece of work but the transmission is more an add-on than integral design with the engine. Therefore there are some ... surprises.

To reduce surprises, buy the complete oil change kit from BajaRon. That ensures you get the proper O-rings (there's lots of them because this is a dry sump engine). I also suggest you change the HCM filter if it hasn't been done before or in the last 30K miles.

To put your Spyder on ramps, reverse the approach. That gives you much more working room.

Lastly search is your friend. Remember what I said about surprises. Take the time to read members' contributions and those surprises won't happen to you.

PS be very careful with torque. Borrow a 1/4" torque wrench if you don't have one.
 
Here are a couple of links that may be of use. The first one was the result of me asking a question of BRP as a result of the very poor quality of the drafting, editing, and proofreading of the 2014 Operator's Guide. The second one is a very good video by Shawn Smoak on how to change the oil in a 1330 RT. He is rather long-winded, speaks the BRP party line but is very knowledgeable. One of the important things you will find is the proper method to remove and reinstall the mirrors.

httphttps://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?82580-Oil-Level-on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw
 
Many thanks to all that offered assistance. I've DL'd the service manuals for both Spyders and have ordered everything needed along with a small torque wrench and an oil change tool kit for the Spyder.

May the good Lord keep you all safe amongst the cagers.

Cheers
 
Back
Top