• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

CB question

I have a copy of the new 2013 parts and accessory catalog and according to the info I can find; the RT and ST CB & Comm System have the same part number. That part # is: 219400145, price $824.99. It's also the same part number in the 2012 catalog. Dale
 
If it's the same part number for both systems; it's got to be the same system and should function identically across the different models...
 
Everything I have looked at has been listed for the RT ONLY, there is nothing listed for the ST... at least in all the online catalogs I have found. By the time we get the cb and headgear to go in the helmet it will be a cool $1000.... sure would like to have some verification from BRP that it will work... Otherwise I will put the J&M cb on it, but it will not interface with the ST system either..... but I already have it.
 
You can do jm and put it thu the ax side from front truck in put for sound and us the new dongl tht they have for the St bikes but as for BRP cb now way. Xm yes that's all guys.....Cw
 
Looks like I will be installing the J&M to the spyder. The J&M doesn't have am outlet for the cb to anything else, It does have an input for a MP3, iPod, or whatever,and a volume control on the cb for music coming throught the head set. Makes it nice because the music will mute when xmit or recieve on the CB.
My bike has an auto stereo sys with a preamp out separate from the power to the speakers in the fairing..... I tied the input to the cb into the preamp outlets, ....the J&M has enough boost in the voluve control to drive the headsets. Works well, I have music at a lower volume from the fairing speakers and fill in sound from the headsets.... nice sound at all speeds!!!


I may be able to come off the speakers on the Spyder and put resistors inline to drop the power to feed the J&M..... The iPod only puts out
30mw per channel...60mw total...... Will just have to study it to find out how much resistance I will need ....or will it be needed at all??? Maybe someone a WHOLE lot smarter on this stuff than me can give me some guidance!!!!

Thanks
hotglue
 
hotglue said:
Looks like I will be installing the J&M to the spyder. The J&M doesn't have am outlet for the cb to anything else, It does have an input for a MP3, iPod, or whatever,and a volume control on the cb for music coming throught the head set. Makes it nice because the music will mute when xmit or recieve on the CB.
My bike has an auto stereo sys with a preamp out separate from the power to the speakers in the fairing..... I tied the input to the cb into the preamp outlets, ....the J&M has enough boost in the voluve control to drive the headsets. Works well, I have music at a lower volume from the fairing speakers and fill in sound from the headsets.... nice sound at all speeds!!!


I may be able to come off the speakers on the Spyder and put resistors inline to drop the power to feed the J&M..... The iPod only puts out
30mw per channel...60mw total...... Will just have to study it to find out how much resistance I will need ....or will it be needed at all??? Maybe someone a WHOLE lot smarter on this stuff than me can give me some guidance!!!!

Thanks
hotglue
Click to expand...
Buy an isolated, adjustable hi-lo converter to tap the speaker wires to feed the system without damaging it. I did that to feed my Starcom1. I used a PAC unit from ABC Warehouse. You will also need an RCA-to-3.5 mm stereo cable for the connection.
 
NancysToy said:
Buy an isolated, adjustable hi-lo converter to tap the speaker wires to feed the system without damaging it. I did that to feed my Starcom1. I used a PAC unit from ABC Warehouse. You will also need an RCA-to-3.5 mm stereo cable for the connection.
Click to expand...

Thanks... as soon as I get over my New Years celebration stupor.... I will try and figure that out...LOL... I may have ta dig out my Uglies Manual and rediscover Ohm's Law.
 
hotglue said:
Thanks... as soon as I get over my New Years celebration stupor.... I will try and figure that out...LOL... I may have ta dig out my Uglies Manual and rediscover Ohm's Law.
Click to expand...

I don't really understand electrons any more than you do. Basically, think of the hi-lo converter as a variable resistor in the line. It is just a black box with wires coming in that you hook to your speakers, and RCA jacks going out that you hook to the device you don't want to blow. It basically attenuates the signal. I learned the trick from Phil, who is way too smart about this kind of stuff. When I am in trouble with electrons, I ask him.
 
There is a car audio shop across the road from us. Pretty good guys. Back at New Years, I took them some oranges and grapefruit from our trees....way too many for us to eat....
Yesterday they were getting the parking area paved, so I went over to check it out. Got to talking to the audio guy about what I was wanting to do.... he sez come with me.....Handed me a PAC , SNI-35.... he said this will fix you up! He wouldn't take any money for it.... I'll take him some more grapefruit Monday!

Thanks Scotty!!!!! your advice was SPOT ON as usual!!!!
 
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