• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Cat Delete one more time

Wildrice

New member
After reading multiple posts from people with the Stage 2 upgrade claiming their torque off the line is great I decided to try it one more time. 1st time was with stock ECM. I got a great deal on the pipe, baffle, & spring hook. My only other expense will be hiring a tow truck to pull the spring tension while I install the pipe. :banghead: Why can't I ever leave good enough alone?
 
So the first time I changed out the pipe I fought with the spring tool with one hand and guided the spring with the other. For the next three bikes I tied a loop of rope to the tool long enough to fit my shoe through and used my leg strength to stretch the spring. It left both hands free to guide the spring into place. MUCH easier.

CJ Jax
 
Get a friend to help and loop a long string on the spring, you’ll run the string along the exhaust. Have your helper pull the cord while you guide the spring into place, it helps to wrap the string around a wrench.
 
Don’t need baffles in delete pipe with stage two. Adding baffles or baffle with flow less air than stock cat does. Stage 2 with RLS cat delete no added baffles sounds awesome.
 
You know what worked well for me to get the spring back on . Use a brake spring tool pliers for leverage the spring back on. Much easier than pulling it.
 
They will be less important in your 80s. You be happy to still be in the wind. Mods will take a back seat - so to speak.

I turned 75 in March--waiting for maturity to catch up with me-----I have a long head start avoiding that issue.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIyESaecC2s

Disregard most of the video. The First tool he uses works well for the springs on the Spyder.

My hands are not like they use to be and pulling the spring would not work for me.

Your hands--I bought an electric 2 pulley hoist to lift my 80 lb 2 person kayak that I modified with a car battery & trolling motor. I was flying with it the other day--I'm guessing 5-6 mph--always take an athletic gal with me--should the battery die--I need someone to paddle while I steer--what a guy--huh :-)
 
When replacing the center stand springs on the GL1800, we would "bend" the spring and insert washers, quarters, nickels or dimes between the coils then position the springs and remove the "washers" with pliers. Don't know if that will work with these springs tho. One could conceivably put one end of the spring on a hook or in a vice on the workbench and expand the spring with a hook while inserting "washers" between the coils then remove them once the spring is in place.

Bear in mind I have no desire to cat delete on my bike.
 
I already had purchased one from Doc at Roadster Renovations--the one in my photo came with the cat delete pipe. But thanks anyway. Maybe I can hire 2 tow trucks & tie one to each spring hook :-)
 
Back
Top