• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

HowTo: Build your own Ryker Reverse Shifter

JSRT

Member
Several folks have asked for more info on how I built our Ryker shifter - so here’s some photos of the major components and instructions to help you fabricate a similar mod.

First, the items ordered from Amazon: bender, light bar clamp, air cylinder rod clevis, heim style joints, and shifter knob. I purchased a 3’ stick of 3/8 round bar stock and misc. nuts & bolts at my local hardware. You will also need a means to cut the steel, a welder (mig preferred) and an angle grinder.

I started by drilling a larger hole (25/64) in the light bar clamp. Cut the zip ties that secure the brake line and wiring to the frame. Mount the clamp to the frame as shown in picture - being sure NOT to pinch the brake line or wires. Thread a 10mm bolt into the clevis. Loosely bolt the clevis to the clamp using a 10mm bolt, 2 nylon washers, and a locking nut.

Now use the bender to get creative and form the shifter rod to your liking. You can keep it simple or try to follow the contour of the Ryker. The goal is to be able to weld the the rod to the end of the 10mm bolt. Once you have the rod bent and cut to the correct height, weld the shift rod to the 10mm bolt and check the figment. If good, solidly weld the bolt to the clevis and grind to a nice, round, tapered finish. Weld a bolt to the top of the rod that will thread into the knob/handle of your choice. Again, grind to a nice finish around the top bolt.

Next you need to cut a 6” piece of bar and weld a 6mm bolt to each end to attach the heim joints. Thread the heim joints onto the bolts welded on the ends of the connecting rod.

You will also need to weld an attachment point to the shifter rod for the heim joint to bolt on to. I used a piece of 1/4 steel with a 6mm hole drilled in it - but you could also use a properly-sized heavy washer welded to the shifter rod. The placement and angle are a little tricky because of the angle involved and the limited movement of the heim joints.

Remove the bolt from the end of the factory shifter. I needed to cut the rubber off flush on the end of the shifter in order for the heim joint to bolt securely. You will also need a longer bolt when connecting the heim joint to the shifter.

Paint as desired and attach the shifter to the frame clamp. Bolt the connecting rod to the shifter rod and the factory shifter using appropriate 6mm bolts and locknuts. Thread your knob or handle on the top. Check for proper operation. Some adjustment can be made by moving the frame clamp forward or backward on the frame. Re-secure the wires and brake line using zip ties. ENJOY! PM me if you have additional questions.

Sorry some of the photos are out of order. See the first post in my earlier thread for more finished photos. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...y-own-Ryker-Shifter-Mod&p=1566075#post1566075
 

Attachments

  • 0ADE13CA-C2DE-4444-A5B8-6F045E4FA4B6.jpg
    0ADE13CA-C2DE-4444-A5B8-6F045E4FA4B6.jpg
    50.7 KB · Views: 167
  • 651C3FA4-5A81-4A7D-8EAF-0981CECE4A59.jpg
    651C3FA4-5A81-4A7D-8EAF-0981CECE4A59.jpg
    39.3 KB · Views: 184
  • 16CCA95C-4638-403E-BF2B-D834B53D8E66.jpg
    16CCA95C-4638-403E-BF2B-D834B53D8E66.jpg
    81.4 KB · Views: 161
  • 676C9CF4-FBB1-478C-98E1-04C57243531E.jpg
    676C9CF4-FBB1-478C-98E1-04C57243531E.jpg
    40.2 KB · Views: 164
  • 45619A0D-D2FC-4A9D-A3F1-C8AF4E10543E.jpg
    45619A0D-D2FC-4A9D-A3F1-C8AF4E10543E.jpg
    46.8 KB · Views: 217
  • CC868E73-4F08-40A6-9132-C236B7970C6C.jpg
    CC868E73-4F08-40A6-9132-C236B7970C6C.jpg
    59.6 KB · Views: 182
  • 92DEB97B-4375-428E-99E2-D7CC6D854F64.jpg
    92DEB97B-4375-428E-99E2-D7CC6D854F64.jpg
    56 KB · Views: 171
  • E1EFC556-11B2-4534-80A8-0BB131A02CB9.jpg
    E1EFC556-11B2-4534-80A8-0BB131A02CB9.jpg
    71.3 KB · Views: 176
  • CE839846-BB4D-437C-9CA9-9269C6186F40.jpg
    CE839846-BB4D-437C-9CA9-9269C6186F40.jpg
    48.9 KB · Views: 154
  • 500A5B7A-11E2-497F-B3EB-EFAD34C50E04.jpg
    500A5B7A-11E2-497F-B3EB-EFAD34C50E04.jpg
    27.2 KB · Views: 156
  • F4507A29-F90A-43D0-AA8A-F97F4049DA40.jpg
    F4507A29-F90A-43D0-AA8A-F97F4049DA40.jpg
    37.2 KB · Views: 154
  • 7819FC07-06A7-491D-937F-C82A3128F6C1.jpg
    7819FC07-06A7-491D-937F-C82A3128F6C1.jpg
    49.4 KB · Views: 172
Last edited by a moderator:
Thank you! This is a very generous share...my hubby will love your instructions...will send pic and how it works after he makes it. Now I will not have to lean down to use my hand to but bike in reverse.
 
Already ordered the parts. Right around $75, not including the shift ball. Looks to be a limited supply available on Amazon, so yall might have to find other sources. No worries here - I got mine! AAHAHHHHHHAAHHAHAAAAA !!

PS - pretty sure I got one of these stashed in the junk drawers ...

71DLIVlsMrL._AC_SY355_.jpg


... and I KNOW I got one of these ... <G>

custom-hand-shift-knob.jpg
 
SHOW US YOUR BALLS !!

This one is a junk bin find from a Massive Ferguson transfer case. Perfect for the bike.

mf-shift-ball.jpg
 
Back
Top