Brand new 2023 S2S Clunks going into Reverse - is this OK?

[MCole]

Hi guys, my brand new 2023 Spider Sea to Sky clunks when putting it in reverse. Stopped in neutral, foot on the brake hit the reverse button and it goes into reverse but with a noticeable clunk. Is this correct?

 

[CopperSpyder]

Yes, normal. Even may get a little clunk going into first, more so on the older model 998 Spyders.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi guys, my brand new 2023 Spider Sea to Sky clunks when putting it in reverse. Stopped in neutral, foot on the brake hit the reverse button and it goes into reverse but with a noticeable clunk. Is this correct ?

The Clunk is normal, but I don't like it either .... so I have ....REDUCED ... the Clunk by doing this .... start Spyder .... wait until the REVS are down to 800 rpm's ( takes less than a minute ) .... put in First gear, then you can shift into Reverse, if you need to back up ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Isopedella]

I get it only once per start up. If I select anything ( rev or 1st) very early and as soon as I seem to be able to beat it. So no clunk.

Its a horrible noise indeed. Plenty on it you type clunk into the search box as well.

That noise from the HCM filter on my F3 se6 is normal as well, according to 2 Techs I have asked.

 

[2dogs]

Watch your tach when you start up. There's a sweet spot just as the tach stops rising and begins to drop back down. At that point sift in to first and if you catch it just right you will not hear or feel the clunk. It's like anything, it takes practice to catch it at the right spot. But it is there if you look for it.

 

[Isopedella]

Cheers 2dogs. :thumbup:

I will give it a crack. I guess I got lucky with my timing but I will try to pay attention to the tach next startup.

Man I just so loath that..... clunk .
Dam Spyders.....another universe for an old school wrencher.

 

[rjinaz86323]

Nor much different than a Harley. It is caused by the straight cut gears. The straight-cut gear teeth provide complete contact along each tooth's mating surface at all times, providing added strength over helical gears, and their straight profile also means that there's no thrust load to stress the transmission case.

 

[BajaRon]

All constant mesh transmissions will clunk when selecting a gear from neutral. So, Mike and the rest are correct. This is 'Normal'. When already in gear, things are not spinning freely (or at all) so there is no inertia to stop. But in neutral, heavy things are spinning. The clunk you get is you bringing that inertial spinning to an abrupt halt. It sounds much worse than it is.

The other factor may be using the BRP blended oil. This shears down to 20 weight between 4,500 & 5,000 miles. As the oil gets thinner, it provides less cushion between the gears. So you get a harsher metal to metal contact creating a louder clunk. If when you change your oil you notice a quieter engine, this is what is taking place. The more noticable the difference, the thinner your oil is getting between services.

Some will say all oils are the same. Or that the people who designed the engine know what is best for it. The facts would argue otherwise.

 

[WRCLVR]

Ron...so what oil and weight do you recommend then as a hedge against the "clunk" ?

 

[BajaRon]

Ron...so what oil and weight do you recommend then as a hedge against the "clunk" ?

We use Amsoil MCF 10/40 for several reasons. 10/40 is a better weight for the Spyder and more stable than a 5/40. Amsoil is also a true synthetic engineered at the molecular level during the crude oil refining process. Whereas most other 'Synthetics' are simple mineral oil with an additive package.

Don't get me wrong. There are some good additive package synthetics out there. Any full synthetic oil will outperform any blended product (which is what the BRP XPS lubricant is). I'm certainly not saying that everyone needs to use Amsoil. It's simply the best oil we've found so far, so that is what we use.

Analysis shows that Amsoil resists shear and contaminante issues better than any oil we (or customers who send us their results) have tested. Amsoil typically shears down to the mid 30's at 10k service. Which, for a common engine/transmission environment, is quite good. Though shear resistance is a great indicator, oil needs to do a lot more than resist shear.

It's the transmission gears constant crushing action that really eats up any lubricant. This is why in cars and larger vehicles, the transmission is always separate from the engine. Separating these differing environments allows the best lubricant to be used in each one. Motorcycles need the weight, size, and cost reduction that combining everything into one case offers. It is a worthy tradoff.

Harley, for example, still uses 3 cases for the different assemblies in some of their machines. This is more expensive, takes up more room and adds weight. But it does allow them to use ideal lubricants suited to each function.

 

[wmjweber45]

I remember the early Goldwings were quite famous for the "Honda clunk" when shifting into first. Did not seem to affect the reliability.

 

[Pooch]

We used Amsoil in all of our 2-wheelers... all were Japanese bikes: Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki... really made for smooth shifting.
Next oil change I will go with Amsoil on this 2021 RTL although it is shifting ok. Have had the dealer do the recommended first 2 oil changes already.
Guess I will have to find someone other than the nearest Spyder dealer to do this. There is one local shop that works on Spyders..
I did find that letting the engine warm up all the way from cold cut down a lot of the unnerving CLUNK into reverse on my RTL.

 

[Isopedella]

I remember the early Goldwings were quite famous for the "Honda clunk" when shifting into first. Did not seem to affect the reliability.

I bought a new 2009 GL1800. Had it for about 12 yrs and put about 90,000k or so on it.

I didn't notice a clunk once. Smooth like silk on ice every time. I used to marvel how there seemed to be no response , nothing like my DR650's or my Triumph's and stuff. Annual services helped I guess.

 

[ARtraveler]

Seven Spyders since 2008. Every one of them "clunks" when shifted into reverse. Have not had to have the transmission fixed on any. :bowdown:

 

[2dogs]

I might add that as the ambient temperature changes and the closer you get to changing time for your oil, that RPM sweet spot seems to change a bit. So as others here have mentioned, the oil's viscosity is forever changing and makes that sweet spot a challenge to find. For me anyway, it's like a completion game between myself and my spyder to find that exact engagement point to avoid the clunk. Sometimes I win and sometimes the spyder wins. But above all, have fun, stay safe, and enjoy the ride.

 

[mecsw500]

Every BMW I ever had, up to but not including the water cooled generation, clunked like a tractor going into gear. But that was every gear.

My Spyder clunks loud enough to scare small children going into gear, forward or reverse, when cold. I don't worry about it. I think "they all do it sir" is about right. When it warms up it's pretty smooth.